tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12764075951739103382024-03-18T07:36:38.912-04:00In my Iraqi Kitchen: Recipes, History and Culture, by Nawal NasrallahA blog about the Iraqi cuisine from ancient Mesopotamian times to the present, by Nawal Nasrallah, author of Delights from the Garden of Eden, 2003. A new fully revised edition is released (UK: Equinox Publishing, 2013). TLS (Nov 1, 2013) said about it:
"A splendid achievement…obviously a labor of love … an impressive book. Each page shows erudition, every recipe a passion for food."
Get it on iBooks ITUNES.APPLE.COM.
The abridged edition (440 pp.) is out! Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-62693395869235677862023-04-29T20:35:00.007-04:002023-04-30T11:47:03.042-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #783f04;"><i>Sakanjabīl</i>: The Perfect Beverage</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #783f04;">
السكنجبيل </span></h2>
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Not many people may drink <i>sakanjabeel</i> in Iraq these days, and I suspect the new generation knows anything about it. So here it is! Really worth rediscovering. </span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Medieval thirst-quenching drinks</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">There was a time when </span><i style="font-family: arial;">sakanjabeel </i><span style="font-family: arial;">was the drink of choice. It was the thirst quencher in the hot days of summer and during the fasting days of Ramadan. It was the digestive tonic to have after a heavy meal; and when tweaked with herbs and spices, it was used as a remedy for many common illnesses, such adding aniseeds to expel phlegm; cardamom to relieve flatulence, dill seeds to relieve colic pain, and so on.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">
<br /><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>What's in a name? </b></span></div><div>
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</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>Sakanjabeel</i> or <i>sakanjab</i><span style="line-height: 107%;"><i style="font-size: 12pt;">īn </i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">is a beverage with </span>impressively<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> ancient roots. Etymologically the name itself is a combination of two Persian words </span></span></span><i style="font-family: arial;">sarka-anjabīn</i><span style="font-family: arial;">, a combination of the words
for vinegar and honey. But names aside, this culinary practice of yoking the
sweet with the sour predates the era of the Sassanian Persian Empire (third
to seventh centuries). Incorporating honey and vinegar into drinks and dishes
is well attested in the world of antiquity. In the book of </span><i style="font-family: arial;">Apicius, </i><span style="font-family: arial;">for
instance, sauces served with grilled meats and fish included honey and vinegar.
Interestingly, in the surviving Babylonian recipes from 1700 BC in ancient Mesopotamia, modern Iraq, we also get a sense of similar practices.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ibn Sīnā (Latin Avicenna, d.1037) describes in
his encyclopedic </span><i style="font-family: arial;">Canon of Medicine</i><span style="font-family: arial;"> how </span><i style="font-family: arial;">sakanjabīn</i><span style="font-family: arial;"> is made:</span></div></span></div>
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Sugar is put in a pot and leveled with a
spoon. Strong vinegar is gently poured until bubbles are seen on the surface.
The sugar is cooked until it melts and its froth is removed. Next, plain water
is added until the mix looks like a thin solution, and then it is boiled until
it has the consistency of a medium syrup.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Ibn Sīnā recommends tweaking it for colder
weather by preparing it with honey instead of sugar. Though both sugar and
honey were said to have hot properties, sugar was said to lean more towards
moderation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><i>Sakanjabīl</i>, as it is called today in countries like Iran
and Iraq, is still prepared more or less the same way and it is bestowed the
same health benefits as in the days of yore, mostly as a refreshing and cooling
drink in the summer and as an aid to digestion. To make a small batch of it,
put in a pot 2 cups vinegar and 2 cups sugar, and bring them to the boil,
skimming any froth that might come up to the surface. Add ½ cup water, 2
tablespoons rosewater, and a sprig of fresh mint. Let the pot boil until a
syrup of medium consistency forms (total about 15 minutes). Discard the mint
sprig. After it cools to room temperature store it in a jar and use it diluted
with plain or sparkling water, amount to taste.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-70060374011964212812021-10-26T16:26:00.003-04:002023-05-06T21:10:44.193-04:00<h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #38761d;">It's Soup Time!</span></h2><h2 style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #38761d;">Kubbat Hamud Shalgham</span></i></h2><h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #38761d;">كبة حامض شلغم</span></h2><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Stuffed Rice Dough<br /></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Simmered in </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Cream of Turnip and Swiss Chard Soup</span></span></h3><div><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2nfKcxhPWQlXT0c0L1SuYzMLVbl1np_8hahoKdSeM_MucuEcHDsBsQvd28nmggvZ_I8stvIL3VhENWYAgdEk1x9ug6DDs5Ci0qV3AZGSBn61vq4OXUhI7DK_m0t2p-IMZ3_DfblVsUOf/s4752/IMG_5295.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3168" data-original-width="4752" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2nfKcxhPWQlXT0c0L1SuYzMLVbl1np_8hahoKdSeM_MucuEcHDsBsQvd28nmggvZ_I8stvIL3VhENWYAgdEk1x9ug6DDs5Ci0qV3AZGSBn61vq4OXUhI7DK_m0t2p-IMZ3_DfblVsUOf/w640-h426/IMG_5295.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This
is the mother of all <i>kubba</i>s<i>. </i>I am
using the expression in the medieval sense, which is ‘the best of.’ I imagine,
had 10th-century al-Warraq, author of <i><a href="https://www.iraqicookbook.com/nawals_other_books/annals_of_the_caliphs_kitchens" target="_blank">Kitab al-Tabeekh</a></i> (كتاب الطبيخ), known this dish, he would have called it <i>‘um al-kubab.</i>’ Actually, one of the recipes in his book came that
close to creating such a dish. In a <i>shaljamiyya</i>
recipe (white stew with turnips), turnips were cooked in white sauce thickened
with crushed chickpeas, ground almonds, milk, and rice. Lean meat was pounded
into paste with spices, formed into <i>kubab</i>
‘meatballs’ and thrown into the simmering stew (Chapter 54).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>This <i>kubba </i>is different from <i><a href="https://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2014/07/kubbat-timman-aka-kubbat-halab-iraqi.html" target="_blank">kubbat Halab</a></i> in that dough is made from ground uncooked rice, pounded with meat.
There is only one way to serve it and that is as <i>kubbat hamu</i></span><i><span face=""Brill",sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ḍ</span></i><i><span>
shalgham</span></i><span>. After
shaping the <i>kubba</i>, it is simmered in
delicious turnip and Swiss chard soup. The soup in this case is served as a
main dish <i><o:p></o:p></i></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i><span>Kubbat
hamu</span></i><i><span face=""Brill",sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ḍ</span></i><i><span>
shalgham</span></i><span> is
everybody's favorite. As children, we had to beg our mothers to make it, since
it wasn't an easy thing to do-- what with all the pounding and grinding needed.
It was definitely not the kind of food to be cooked as often as we would have
desired. However, in the age of food processors, making it is no
big deal. Nowadays, rice flour can be purchased ready-made, and dough can be
pulsed in the food processor in a few minutes. This might explain why in the
Arab countries, a food processor is called <i>sit
il-bet</i> (lady of the house).<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In Iraq, this dish is a winter
treat since turnips and Swiss chard are available in that season only. Still,
some people do make it in the summer, using summer squash and mint.
Incidentally, al-Warraq, in the same turnip stew recipe I mentioned above, also
gave gourd (<i>qar'</i>) as a substitute
when turnip was not in season. The traditional Jewish Iraqi version of this
dish is prepared with beets instead of turnips, which is also a very ancient
vegetable used in stews as shown in one of the <a href="https://www.laphamsquarterly.org/roundtable/ancient-mesopotamian-tablet-cookbook" target="_blank">Babylonian recipes</a>. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><span> </span>Both turnips and chard </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">have been used in cooking in the region ever since antiquity. In one of the
Babylonian stews, turnips were the principal ingredient. In Akkadian, it
was called ‘laptu,’ from which the Arabic </span><i style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">lift
</i><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">was derived (its other name <i>saljam</i>/<i>shaljam</i>/<i>shalgham</i> is a Persian loan word). During the medieval times, turnips were made into delicious
white stews, sometimes adorned with spicy meatballs, as mentioned above.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzfWtaXnxwat6Hof687yFgREQK3Jmb6rUdEmWeoZqddK0R8U9DLPrAzgfLbl8kJO8lC16hr5C57A1NARV_W6d6bd6Z8YFI8zwWsjuciLes3SMpIfFb-8I_VMuR3xiAlbT1XM-maeomIgE/s1514/0050+turnip+.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1514" data-original-width="1115" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzfWtaXnxwat6Hof687yFgREQK3Jmb6rUdEmWeoZqddK0R8U9DLPrAzgfLbl8kJO8lC16hr5C57A1NARV_W6d6bd6Z8YFI8zwWsjuciLes3SMpIfFb-8I_VMuR3xiAlbT1XM-maeomIgE/w472-h640/0050+turnip+.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A turnip, <a href="https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8422960m" target="_blank"><i>Kitab al-Diryaq</i> </a></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.2in;">Turnip, a winter vegetable in Iraq,
is believed to have the power to relieve cold symptoms. The sight of vendors selling turnips simmered in water and date syrup is quite common in wintertime.
The aroma emitting from those steaming huge pots of turnips is unforgettable. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKNS2FIn4jwbzoUSsXMO_CWV7wQdFLXYOKIoAovXhxqftZhtWcofqbveypQEHwc2Yn6TX9XSD8yL2hkczwWwwrtTJpk0gdcMle-HHBNpV3p6-tPRrK94-14ug2lsv0n1yXYm6br11Bu-0/s818/img20211025_18113311.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="811" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKNS2FIn4jwbzoUSsXMO_CWV7wQdFLXYOKIoAovXhxqftZhtWcofqbveypQEHwc2Yn6TX9XSD8yL2hkczwWwwrtTJpk0gdcMle-HHBNpV3p6-tPRrK94-14ug2lsv0n1yXYm6br11Bu-0/w396-h400/img20211025_18113311.jpg" width="396" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">Sketch is by Iraqi artist Suad Salim, see my post on </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><i><a href="https://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2012/11/recipes-from-baghdad-thefirst-cookbook.html" target="_blank">Recipes from Baghdad</a></i> </span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNsAygV-10PVNH5H68BIhgSqXmq82VUZdxgNdBXbUBEuQJ3Prr_4Ju81xbKC_pK2flfG4k8vzyoSyt5BCLWtYLmM6K0jCJ8xcyzPk2sI0r7iUQqe_xWnjVNoxAPVrMnq_ivwRHQXfGTto/s2657/0212+chard.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="2657" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNsAygV-10PVNH5H68BIhgSqXmq82VUZdxgNdBXbUBEuQJ3Prr_4Ju81xbKC_pK2flfG4k8vzyoSyt5BCLWtYLmM6K0jCJ8xcyzPk2sI0r7iUQqe_xWnjVNoxAPVrMnq_ivwRHQXfGTto/w640-h214/0212+chard.jpg" title="Swiss chard" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chard, <a href="https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/5e66b3e9-0452-d471-e040-e00a180654d7#" target="_blank">Dioscorides</a>, <i>Fi Hayula al-Tibb</i>, translation by Hunayn b. Ishaq</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">Like turnips, chard is an ancient vegetable. Its Arabic name <i style="text-indent: 19.2px;">silq</i><span style="text-indent: 19.2px;"> was derived from the Akkadian ‘silki.’ Also like turnips, it was valued as an effective cure for cold-related ailments. In the opinion of the medieval Arab physicians and botanists, it was also believed to increase blood and semen, and was said to work as an aphrodisiac and euphoriant. </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;"><i>Hamuḍ Shalgham</i>: What’s in a Name?</span></h3><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ">ما معنى حامض شلغم؟</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The Iraqi name for this soup <i>hamudh shalgham</i> literally translates to ‘sour turnips,’ and to make it sour we add lemon juice or tamarind. It turned out, <i>hamud shalgham</i>, after all, is what it means -- soured turnips:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Originally, fermented soured turnips and their liquid were added to stews and soups for sourness and flavor. I discovered this while reading an entry on turnips in 10<sup>th</sup>-century <i>Al-Filaha al-Nabatiyya</i> (farming practices of the Nabateans/indigenous Iraqis) by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ibn_Wahshiyya" target="_blank">Ibn Wahshiyya</a>, a Chaldean himself, who in his introduction to the book claimed that it was an Arabic translation of ancient Babylonian sources dealing with their advanced knowledge on farming, originally written in <i>Suryaniyya qadeema</i> (Syriac). His comments on turnips included a recipe for <i>ma’ al-saljam al-hamidh</i> (sour turnip juice). The recipe uses peeled and diced turnips, turnip juice, and baked sour bread. While the bread is still hot, it is whipped into the turnip mix until it dissolves completely, with the addition of herbs like rue, mint, and parsley. The mix is left to ferment until it matures and sours. Ibn Wahshiyya says it is eaten with bread and its juice is made into a digestive drink. He also says the sour turnip juice is used in meat dishes to make the sauce deliciously sour.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">So we make the soup, call it <i>hamud shalgham</i>, and we are completely oblivious to the long history of the indigenous ancient culinary practices involved in making it. </span></p></div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><br /></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>For the Love of </span><i>Kubba</i></span></h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6HvUfU65zA-JJSFRUYcySfcdbQ-jABFfh9D7SpRzkw5EqFPso0bI-CXchcu_IqTpVbFi2ocA278bS6SLLm7PVvhEUYnhY1fwJDzwkjR3ppjnuWQwhupVDIcYoR7AariQ94mlP7TfS08G/s864/img20211025_18010767.jpg" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="659" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6HvUfU65zA-JJSFRUYcySfcdbQ-jABFfh9D7SpRzkw5EqFPso0bI-CXchcu_IqTpVbFi2ocA278bS6SLLm7PVvhEUYnhY1fwJDzwkjR3ppjnuWQwhupVDIcYoR7AariQ94mlP7TfS08G/w488-h640/img20211025_18010767.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p align="center" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">Sketch by Iraqi artist Suad Salim, see my post on </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><i><a href="https://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2012/11/recipes-from-baghdad-thefirst-cookbook.html" target="_blank">Recipes from Baghdad</a></i> </span></span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b> </b>وكت دك الكبّة ‘ وعّو قَرندل</span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">وكت أكل الكبّة ‘ نايم قرندل</span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: center;">When it’s time for pounding </span><i style="text-align: center;">kubba,</i><span style="text-align: center;"> “Wake up Qarandal!”</span></span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">When it’s time to eat the <i>kubba</i>, “Let poor Qarandal sleep.” </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">An Iraqi proverb said when people feel used. They would be called when their help is
needed, but none would think of calling them back when the time comes to share the fruits of their deed. And what dish to choose better than the elaborate
</span><i style="font-family: arial;">kubba</i><span style="font-family: arial;">? </span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLvSjNt0wvYxxgkhpO2Oc35uA5309GdqRYf_WEKDFUgfUGnVTZFbEuSMody9dUMVfqP7bOiXLrm_Q0WnM5otGqx22Dv8oy8iBsLc2ReAc7BRf3CS3GVZaqPFIZo12Lx0zf_xqbCqv70Rj/s3811/IMG_5289+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1992" data-original-width="3811" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLvSjNt0wvYxxgkhpO2Oc35uA5309GdqRYf_WEKDFUgfUGnVTZFbEuSMody9dUMVfqP7bOiXLrm_Q0WnM5otGqx22Dv8oy8iBsLc2ReAc7BRf3CS3GVZaqPFIZo12Lx0zf_xqbCqv70Rj/w640-h334/IMG_5289+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">Here is how to make </span><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">Kubbat Hamud Shalgham</i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">:</span></h2><div><span style="font-family: arial;">With some planning you can enjoy this kubba fuss free. Prepare stuffing the day before perhaps. Make the kubba dough, and start making the turnip soup. While the soup is cooking, stuff and shape the kubba into balls, and have them ready to drop into the soup pot when the time comes.</span></div><div><h3><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Making the <i>kubba</i> balls (about 16 balls):</span></b></h3></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">12 ounces lean beef, ground</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">2 cups (12 ounces) rice flour</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">1 teaspoon salt</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">½ teaspoon black pepper</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">About 4 tablespoons cold water, depending on how moist the meat is</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">1 recipe <i>kubba </i>filling, see my previous post on <a href="https://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2014/07/kubbat-timman-aka-kubbat-halab-iraqi.html" target="_blank"><i>kubbat Halab</i></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: arial;">........................................</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Prepare the dough: mix together ground beef, rice flour, salt, and pepper. In three batches process the mix in a food processor, adding cold water in tablespoons through the spout. A ball of dough will start forming and revolving within 2 to 3 minutes. Repeat until all is done. The final dough will be pinkish in hue, pliable, and of medium consistency. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Make the <i>kubba</i> balls by t</span><span style="font-family: arial;">aking a piece of the dough, size of a golf ball, flatten it into a thin concave disc (a wok-like disc)-- you need to make it as thin as you possibly can to avoid ending up with tough kubbas -- and put about one tablespoon of the filling in the middle. Gather the ends to close it, and roll it into a ball between the palms. Remember to handle the dough with slightly moistened fingers. </span><span style="font-family: arial;">It sometimes happens that while shaping the dough tears at places, especially when you are trying to make it as thin as possible. The way to fix this is to take a small piece of dough, flatten it between your fingers, slightly wet the torn area, and patch it. Put the finished pieces on a tray, in one layer. And use when the soup is ready. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p></div><h3 style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Preparing the soup:</span></b></h3><h3 style="text-align: justify;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">1 medium onion,
chopped</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">2 tablespoons oil</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">3 medium turnips,
(about 1 pound) peeled and cut into 1 inch-cubes<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: 400;">4 to 5 big leaves Swiss chard (about 3 cups chopped), chopped with the stalks</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">1 teaspoon crushed
coriander seeds<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">½ teaspoon turmeric<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">2 heaping tablespoons
tomato paste, optional, if you want the soup to be red </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">½ cup rice soaked in
water for 30 minutes and pulsed with the water in a food processor</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">1½ teaspoons salt<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">½ teaspoon black
pepper<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Juice of 1 lemon (¼
cup or to taste), plus ½ teaspoon sugar</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">............................. </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial;">1. In a large pot, sauté onion in oil until it starts to soften. Add the turnip pieces
and fold together, about 5 minutes. Toss in the Swiss chard, and fold. Fold in coriander, turmeric, and tomato paste if used. P</span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: normal;">our in hot
water or broth to cover them by about 5 inches, and mix well. Add the pulsed rice, stir well; also add salt, black pepper, lemon juice, and sugar. Bring the pot to a boil, and then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, </span><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: normal;">until turnip is tender and
soup starts to slightly thicken. Stir occasionally to prevent the soup from
sticking to the bottom of the pot, about 20 minutes. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">2. Drop in the prepared balls of kubba, stir the pot carefully, and let it boil gently for 20 minutes to allow the <i>kubba</i>s to cook. </span></p>
<div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">And enjoy this hearty delicious soup. M</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">y children nicknamed this soup, </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">Shorbat Kuluhu</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">, (Eat It Soup) after I told them how the prophet Muhammad recommended eating turnips to his followers saying, "Eat it, and do not tell your enemies about it." It is that good! So next time you catch a cold or something, you know what to do.</span></span></span></span></div></h3><h3 style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihq1DdZ6o5EqSFhamBkBamj0fAwd7ZLcIMhsfCRQZrUGhFMRAs6foOSOMvaDHC9k7LLjZYMJMM7tyza63fWbWX62z0KLBIrZdcC_yi0aQUNEcnpspjdCz_59ReT7unpqQojp62K9u4dWsN/s4752/IMG_5293.JPG" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3168" data-original-width="4752" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihq1DdZ6o5EqSFhamBkBamj0fAwd7ZLcIMhsfCRQZrUGhFMRAs6foOSOMvaDHC9k7LLjZYMJMM7tyza63fWbWX62z0KLBIrZdcC_yi0aQUNEcnpspjdCz_59ReT7unpqQojp62K9u4dWsN/w640-h426/IMG_5293.JPG" width="640" /></a></h3><h3 style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></h3><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">The Story of Joha and Turnips</span></b></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ" style="font-family: "Diwani Letter";"><span style="font-size: medium;">قصة جحا والشلغم</span><span style="font-size: 20pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg24LqCjnfhkpVZivcf24rpGljdB7P15uTgoCSMC4AiFzxgr6v9Mg8o6BMSJTRZktKmK2zsG8VBgjab7F3KIVaXtyPPPmUbppB3nf_RbnQOcyJEegw87Pi6lJ1kL6RqZJxMDgo6Zny-n-zr/s555/Nasreddin_%252817th-century_miniature%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="501" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg24LqCjnfhkpVZivcf24rpGljdB7P15uTgoCSMC4AiFzxgr6v9Mg8o6BMSJTRZktKmK2zsG8VBgjab7F3KIVaXtyPPPmUbppB3nf_RbnQOcyJEegw87Pi6lJ1kL6RqZJxMDgo6Zny-n-zr/w578-h640/Nasreddin_%252817th-century_miniature%2529.jpg" width="578" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #202122;">A </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Nasreddin_(17th-century_miniature).jpg" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">17th-century miniature</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #202122;"> of Joha, whom the Ottomans called Mulla Nasreddin</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"></p><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Joha is a popular comic character in Islamic folkloric literature. While at times he is shrewd and funny enough to play practical jokes on people, he is also presented as a naïve person who easily becomes the butt of numerous jokes. The following is my favorite:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Once Joha went to pay homage to the Caliph, and as the custom required, he took with him a present. It was a basketful of </span><i>nabq</i><span>/</span><i>nabug</i><span> نبق, which is fruit of the lote tree (sidr tree), which are the size of small cherries. <i>Nabq</i> was, and still is, by common consent, a very humble fruit.</span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuaTXWwVBfddhhEkbwvSe8DMTDFZjlu7iNlYc6NqqBWR3Rx5xW9MmOYfIAkBoszSmMsVkSAUlMe2bfU6_P1xyC5Wxyb4-9l1cAFloPm0p0SZKnhCgIuAmytG3_Yc8bJ1T503KIvYGSeQp/s2440/nabq.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1992" data-original-width="2440" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuaTXWwVBfddhhEkbwvSe8DMTDFZjlu7iNlYc6NqqBWR3Rx5xW9MmOYfIAkBoszSmMsVkSAUlMe2bfU6_P1xyC5Wxyb4-9l1cAFloPm0p0SZKnhCgIuAmytG3_Yc8bJ1T503KIvYGSeQp/w400-h326/nabq.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%D9%85%DB%8C%D9%88%D9%87_%D8%AF%D8%B1%D8%AE%D8%AA_%DA%A9%D9%86%D8%A7%D8%B1%D8%8C_%D8%A8%D9%87%D8%A8%D9%87%D8%A7%D9%86.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Nabq</i>, fruit of the lote tree </span></a></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Naturally, the Caliph was offended, and gave a command that Joha was to be stoned with every single fruit he brought with him. Every time he was hit by one, Juha would say, "</span><i style="text-align: justify;">Alhamdu lil-lah wal-shukr</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> (may God be praised and thanked). The Caliph was surprised and asked for an explanation. Joha told him that he was thanking God for listening to his wife who suggested this fruit as opposed to his initial choice, turnips.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span></div>Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-72761080775448969592021-06-11T22:41:00.005-04:002021-06-11T22:53:06.640-04:00<h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: arial;">Medieval Arabs Ate Sandwiches Too!?</span></h2><h3 style="text-align: center;"><br /></h3><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Keep on reading to get to the bottom of it while making this millennium old pinwheel sandwich made for the Abbasid Caliph al-Mutawakkil (d.861), and surprise yourself
with how exotic and yet so familiar it is. Enjoy!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVgciuf6ErXEMoqzYJu0gA1y1zCRrxnF_7B5_4VTve6af2QCjvIZNzKzctgSjOPAyaIDeaz8kbY-p8RrzvrZA1LH3Y3MPypUVAJ6CLxDWQvvXyb0dKX4S_tl1RuGV21nvKRYai4YMym0M/s3999/IMG_5261.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2272" data-original-width="3999" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVgciuf6ErXEMoqzYJu0gA1y1zCRrxnF_7B5_4VTve6af2QCjvIZNzKzctgSjOPAyaIDeaz8kbY-p8RrzvrZA1LH3Y3MPypUVAJ6CLxDWQvvXyb0dKX4S_tl1RuGV21nvKRYai4YMym0M/w640-h363/IMG_5261.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0in;">We all bought into the theory that the inventor of the sandwich was </span>John Montagu</span><span style="font-family: arial;">, the fourth Earl of Sandwich of England </span><span style="font-family: arial;">(</span><span face="sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #202122;">1718 – 1792</span><span style="font-family: arial;">)</span><span style="font-family: arial;">. The story goes that he was the one who started the trend when he asked for his meal to be served between two layers of bread. John Montagu was an avid gambler, or a workaholic, according to another account, who chose to forgo the traditional proper table-dinners that would have interrupted whatever it was he was doing and, more importantly, to keep a hand free. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonLkSFk-9RGxbc6nJPDm2Vu0nMJ0LThyphenhyphenIcaYJLlNdA1btjsvuhp1pq7xJFzn5g35X15E5fG6OmALCXjoFkVBt9AicKUTu0XV5l0IXRzDTOPQiuNbqEl_fTC3JY-sqSaxOk_ED9a-WvwFV/s500/541_sandwich_01.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="500" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonLkSFk-9RGxbc6nJPDm2Vu0nMJ0LThyphenhyphenIcaYJLlNdA1btjsvuhp1pq7xJFzn5g35X15E5fG6OmALCXjoFkVBt9AicKUTu0XV5l0IXRzDTOPQiuNbqEl_fTC3JY-sqSaxOk_ED9a-WvwFV/w320-h319/541_sandwich_01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Fourth Earl of <a href="https://recipereminiscing.wordpress.com/2015/02/18/the-sandwich-when-where-and-why/" target="_blank">Sandwich</a></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">The speculation is that soon enough people around him started to imitate him, to have that same 'thing' that Sandwich had, and that was how food consumed this way acquired the name ‘sandwich,’ with the first </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">documented English sandwich recipe appearing in </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">the 1773 </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">English cookbook <i>The Lady’s Assistant for Regulating and Supplying her Table</i> by </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">Charlotte Mason:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCIdhpm6lUY9XSpTbQv6LVFkEL3F8n4EMeIJYMYZNwo0xCf45kOKEweQwlIFosw9pFejHUnIONSAebiq7hjYzIhrAriiZv9OgIhncYLK4_umHS_RSoR3froPDnyyZKY01pFfuWMpc_6Fzh/s1760/mason+427+cropped.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="317" data-original-width="1760" height="117" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCIdhpm6lUY9XSpTbQv6LVFkEL3F8n4EMeIJYMYZNwo0xCf45kOKEweQwlIFosw9pFejHUnIONSAebiq7hjYzIhrAriiZv9OgIhncYLK4_umHS_RSoR3froPDnyyZKY01pFfuWMpc_6Fzh/w640-h117/mason+427+cropped.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Mason, <a href="https://archive.org/details/ladysassistantf00masogoog" target="_blank"><i>Lady's Assistant</i></a>, p. 427</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Well, as far as naming goes, this is all plausible, but the fourth Earl of Sandwich was definitely not the first one to have his meal this way. <span style="text-indent: 0in;">Food must have conveniently been eaten this way from ancient times in the Near East, where </span><span style="text-indent: 0in;">bread was baked in a variety of ways: f</span><span style="text-indent: 0in;">lat ones and risen and spongy ones. They were variously made leavened
and unleavened, large and small, and many more. Depending on how they were made, there was the clay oven </span><i style="text-indent: 0in;">tannūr</i><span style="text-indent: 0in;"> for the </span><span style="text-indent: 0in;">leavened flat bread, the larger communal brick oven for baking puffed and spongy bread, and the metal plates (<i>saj</i>) for the large and thin bread varieties</span><span style="text-indent: 0in;">.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3p45o0cM1Zzrtuorlsx_PCF38penWtPvzVGN_f9T-UT102GtvpInJAYXQAmVcU7eV_ZdWLnM3VssWy3a1N7fiuTdYBVVfp1vH8Ff7M9TaV1Ps2xE5CMPqZZ_FlAJgyUQfDlh-UFV6006Z/s390/tenur-irak.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="310" data-original-width="390" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3p45o0cM1Zzrtuorlsx_PCF38penWtPvzVGN_f9T-UT102GtvpInJAYXQAmVcU7eV_ZdWLnM3VssWy3a1N7fiuTdYBVVfp1vH8Ff7M9TaV1Ps2xE5CMPqZZ_FlAJgyUQfDlh-UFV6006Z/w640-h508/tenur-irak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baking <i>Khubz</i> in the <a href="http://www.amouda.com/t-tanur.htm" target="_blank"><i>tann</i><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">ūr</i></a></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0in;"><br /><br /></span></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9uW7cYhEGGsI0a7BUE3r-amcOAZMC93cgad6tekfZX3Jv4C8RXsAqye4MabjMAsOSnd6i0fxut2KpqOMJNUtYYR_Ohkjk691UaZ0ifKdE2qqn6Tpzv8Qbm-xCu4PdVeB-ZBOgVxGfz9NA/s350/brick+oven+.gif" style="font-style: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="262" data-original-width="350" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9uW7cYhEGGsI0a7BUE3r-amcOAZMC93cgad6tekfZX3Jv4C8RXsAqye4MabjMAsOSnd6i0fxut2KpqOMJNUtYYR_Ohkjk691UaZ0ifKdE2qqn6Tpzv8Qbm-xCu4PdVeB-ZBOgVxGfz9NA/w640-h480/brick+oven+.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excavated remains of a brick oven <i>furn </i>in ancient Mesopotamia <a href="http://www.tellbrak.mcdonald.cam.ac.uk/latechalcolithic.html" target="_blank">Tell Brak</a></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i style="text-indent: 0in;"></i></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh479m_TkPZE_FbzuIW01kwrKruhzQI_ROI80DGcBvgz4pVOcYrx1HIz8nBxU9t3rK3E0G0zd-xd7Pc0O6yfntzgHlltOW3U8qmDfsW9Nsm0TTBcJE-sT-cgVx5RgGC9SXZfkntplSHMZpw/s587/%25D8%25AE%25D8%25A8%25D8%25B2_%25D8%25B5%25D8%25A7%25D8%25AC.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="587" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh479m_TkPZE_FbzuIW01kwrKruhzQI_ROI80DGcBvgz4pVOcYrx1HIz8nBxU9t3rK3E0G0zd-xd7Pc0O6yfntzgHlltOW3U8qmDfsW9Nsm0TTBcJE-sT-cgVx5RgGC9SXZfkntplSHMZpw/w640-h382/%25D8%25AE%25D8%25A8%25D8%25B2_%25D8%25B5%25D8%25A7%25D8%25AC.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A baking thin sheet of <a href="https://ar.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D9%85%D9%84%D9%81:%D8%AE%D8%A8%D8%B2_%D8%B5%D8%A7%D8%AC.jpg" target="_blank">flat bread</a>, called <i>marquq</i>, <i>shrak</i>, <i>lawash</i>/lavash, etc.</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">In Mesopotamia alone more </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">than 300 varieties of bread were known. Interestingly, w</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">e see in an ancient Mesopotamian cylinder seal,
for instance, an Assyrian officer having a meal on the go-- the way sandwiches are always meant to be eaten. He is depicted as
holding what looks like a roll of bread (a sandwich!) while standing, with his
attendant fanning the flies away </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTa_JXJpHQWN7ncBL7ZGYrUI50CgLS7rFOoZ9TuvUW3zEzagt9v_7GMSc3h_Bzrp8OdA_WIQXuQT6fSsnBQkz_w_Sm7vHi4MrGSc1Vkpeff65kVQNLCwD8nrN_B_MhXVinT69ektjOsBB/s3335/meso+officer+sandwich+.tif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2540" data-original-width="3335" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTa_JXJpHQWN7ncBL7ZGYrUI50CgLS7rFOoZ9TuvUW3zEzagt9v_7GMSc3h_Bzrp8OdA_WIQXuQT6fSsnBQkz_w_Sm7vHi4MrGSc1Vkpeff65kVQNLCwD8nrN_B_MhXVinT69ektjOsBB/w640-h488/meso+officer+sandwich+.tif" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 18.4px;">Iraqi Museum<br />(Reproduction in </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt; text-align: left;">Tharwat </span><span style="text-align: left;">Ukāsha, </span><i style="font-size: 12pt; text-align: left;">Al-Fann al-‘Irāqī, 1</i><span style="font-size: 16px; text-align: left;">980: 517)</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;">From scenes depicted on the ancient
Egyptian temple walls we can see that fillings were added between two layers of
bread resembling sandwiches, and cylindrical breads were made that looked like pinwheels.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8jtwUb-iIODjWZxlksRAf0PAd0snhlN5Y8uGCvmGi9rdtnHXEQb1AKMPI6YeM0Ssijs3lElq3zTQYdvpufMyittOsa-gbJyLNfjzviQqUjXY5QEkLU9LJDAXMe5Hbw1_3sPDmGDvuCs0/s1528/Ramses-III-bakery.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1528" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8jtwUb-iIODjWZxlksRAf0PAd0snhlN5Y8uGCvmGi9rdtnHXEQb1AKMPI6YeM0Ssijs3lElq3zTQYdvpufMyittOsa-gbJyLNfjzviQqUjXY5QEkLU9LJDAXMe5Hbw1_3sPDmGDvuCs0/w640-h416/Ramses-III-bakery.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">An ancient Egyptian <a href="https://www.shraboise.com/2017/05/53117-sourdough-story/egyptian-baking/" target="_blank">baking scene</a></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;">As for ancient Greece and Rome, it was to the Near East that they looked for the well-made bread. In his “Life of Luxury,” Sicilian-Greek gourmet
Archestratus (fourth century </span><span style="font-family: arial; line-height: 115%; text-indent: 0in;">BCE</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0in;">)
recommended the Phoenicians and Lydian bakers (in western Asia Minor) for their expertise in baking.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLf4teRom2VDgbX6i58EfGo7el-pOSt64bkGu3GOWBs3hLrjXCb6FxVFIJOzHszbCG3Hii-2lQIYUyWGIyYPcpwu-IV-8pVHgZsEtZqbVoV9KgSWTNqC4HRchyphenhyphen7w6JM2ILbvtUktYjyTs/s279/medieval+baker.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="279" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLf4teRom2VDgbX6i58EfGo7el-pOSt64bkGu3GOWBs3hLrjXCb6FxVFIJOzHszbCG3Hii-2lQIYUyWGIyYPcpwu-IV-8pVHgZsEtZqbVoV9KgSWTNqC4HRchyphenhyphen7w6JM2ILbvtUktYjyTs/w400-h380/medieval+baker.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-hyphenate: none; tab-stops: -.5in; text-align: justify;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center;"><span> </span><span> </span><span> <span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: arial;">A <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/451084" target="_blank">medieval cook</a> kneading bread dough</span></span></span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Thus it follows that in a region so impressively rich and varied in making bread, it should come as no surprise to learn that </span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;">the documented </span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt;">history of the sandwich and its culture in the Near East began much earlier than the </span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;">eighteenth</span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt;"> century in Europe</span></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span>. While the first English sandwich recipe appeared in the1773 <i>Lady's Assistant</i>, in the surviving medieval Arabic cookbooks many sandwich recipes were included </span></span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px; text-align: justify;">as early as the tenth century</span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span>. In fact, based on the </span></span><span style="text-indent: 0in;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">references and descriptions of sandwiches in medieval Arabic
literature, their origin can be pushed even further back to the eighth or ninth century, which was the beginning of
the golden age of the Baghdadi cuisine. For instance, i</span></span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">n al-Masʿūdī’s tenth-century </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">Murūj al-Dhahab</i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">, a poem by the famous Abbasid poet of Baghdad Ibn al-Rūmī (d. 896) describes how to construct a sandwich, which he calls </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">wasṭ </i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">(وسط)</span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;">, in which the stuffing is put between two layers of bread. Here is how he describes it: </span></span></p><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>You, seeker of delicious food, take a couple of fine breads, round and thick,</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>The likes of which no one has seen, Slice off the top crusts, </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>so that you make them thin.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><span> </span>Spread on one, finely minced grilled chicken, delectable and delicate, </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><span> </span>which a mere puff<span> </span>would melt.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>On this arrange lines of almond intersected with lines of walnut.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>Let its dots be cheese and olive, and its vowels mint and tarragon,</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>Now take boiled eggs, and with their dirhams [egg white] </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>and dinars [egg yolk] the</span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"> </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">wasṭ</i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"> </span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">adorn.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>Give it a dusting of salt, but not much; just what it needs.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>And inspect it with your eyes for a second or two, </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> </span>for the eyes have a share in it, too.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><span> </span>Look at it appreciatively until your eyes have their fill, </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;"><span> </span>then cover it with the other bread, and </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: justify;">eat it with joy.</span></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .2in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 0.2in; mso-add-space: auto; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-indent: 0in;">AS for recipes, the earliest ones occur in I<span style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-indent: 19.2px;">bn Sayyār al-Warrāq</span>’s 10</span><sup style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-indent: 0in;">th</sup><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-indent: 0in;">-century cookbook, </span><i style="font-size: 16px; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.2in;">Kitāb al-Ṭabīkh</i><span style="font-size: 16px; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.2in;">, c</span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-indent: 0in;">hapter 23 (my English translation, <a href="https://www.iraqicookbook.com/nawals_other_books/annals_of_the_caliphs_kitchens" target="_blank"><i>Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens</i></a>)</span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.15pt; text-indent: 0in;">. In this chapter, five recipes are given with a bonus food poem. In these five recipes, sandwiches are made in three different ways:</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">1. A thin flat bread similar to today's <i>marquq </i>(lavash) is spread with layers of finely chopped ingredients (meat, vegetables, herbs, etc.), and then seasoned and tightly rolled. The sandwich is served sliced into pinwheels, called <i>b</i></span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><i>azmaward</i>, a name of Persian origin. It was also called <i>m</i></span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">uyassar wa muhanni</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> ميسر ومهني (i.e. delightful and easy to eat).</span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> </i></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.2in;">2. Another type of sandwich is called <i>wast</i> (pl. <i>aswat </i>اوساط); it is similar to the one described in Ibn al-Rimi's verses.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">3. The third type is called </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">wast mashtour</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> (وسط مشطور), which is </span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">an open-faced sandwich. This one, al-Warraq tells us, was made </span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">by no less than the Abbasid gourmet Prince Ibrahim b. al-Mahdi himself (d. 839), who was half-brother of Hārūn al-Rashīd. The recipe describes how the crusty edges and top of a brick-oven bread are first sliced off, and the face is spread with a fermented condiment, called </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">binn</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">, and then slathered with walnut oil. It is toasted on a grill set on a brazier, and after smearing it with yolk of soft-cooked eggs, and grated cheese if wished, it is good to eat. Here is the recipe as it occurs in al-Warraq's Arabic edition:</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfSKMBILLmkP_Btwm6uVDeaLLISFsMA3otA4-E3t979Dxhm2Kn3f2eEweOD6tt84kiMPA4-F1zitjXNbrEJKwS9QnOvy2W4gfzBzWYvWj7botfJscVDfR7ZlERY81Q66e4Td_2G-daHAoZ/" style="font-family: arial; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img alt="" data-original-height="325" data-original-width="1423" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfSKMBILLmkP_Btwm6uVDeaLLISFsMA3otA4-E3t979Dxhm2Kn3f2eEweOD6tt84kiMPA4-F1zitjXNbrEJKwS9QnOvy2W4gfzBzWYvWj7botfJscVDfR7ZlERY81Q66e4Td_2G-daHAoZ/w640-h146/ibrahim+recipe.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: arial;">What is even more exciting is the fact that I<span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">bn al-Mahdī supplemented his recipe with a short poem describing it, which in effect is an artistic representation of the dish itself -- second best to today's camera images. Here is his poem:</span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM3M927kslmPhr-Wi27H-FgZKuz6taIMMnAklp38dwzybisSkHOIcKYBFYZZJFfb3iALZyZJjqTqMZc9aC6N4m1ERAzRzPgqGx5Et5eVlRC_S1m0vEA9EAS5TUx4oTzsfctxv0REknwkp/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img data-original-height="480" data-original-width="1429" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM3M927kslmPhr-Wi27H-FgZKuz6taIMMnAklp38dwzybisSkHOIcKYBFYZZJFfb3iALZyZJjqTqMZc9aC6N4m1ERAzRzPgqGx5Et5eVlRC_S1m0vEA9EAS5TUx4oTzsfctxv0REknwkp/w640-h214/mahdi+poem.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.2in;">What a delicious sandwich on the brazier I made, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><span> <span> </span></span>slathered with </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">binn </i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">and walnut oil!</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Fragrant and shining, as if the <i>binn</i> I used </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> <span> </span></span>with ambergris and musk was embalmed.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Of nigella seeds I put what it needed, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> <span> </span></span>as for fennel, I did sprinkle some. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Olive oil I made sure to add, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> <span> </span></span>for it gives a luscious coating and a saffron-glow.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Smeared with egg yolks, with cheese sprinkled, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> <span> </span></span>looking like speckled embroidered silk. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As colorful as striped silk it looks, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> <span> </span></span>exuding musk and camphor.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;">The taste, luscious as pure honey, </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;"> for the best of aromatic spices I did use.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial; line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial; line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial; line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></p><h3 style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">Here is a recipe for you to try: </span></span></h3></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.4px; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><div style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">It is a recipe for making the pinwheel sandwiches, </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">bazmāward</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">, from tenth-century </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">Kitāb al-Ṭabīkh</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> by Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq, chapter 23. </span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">It was specially made for </span><span style="text-indent: 0in;">the Abbasid Caliph al-Mutawakkil, d. 861:</span></span></div></div><div><span><span style="layout-grid-mode: line; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: arial;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Use cold [cooked] meat of two legs and
shoulders of a kid or lamb. Finely shred the meat into thread-like pieces.
Choose whatever you like of leaf vegetables, excluding watercress (<i>jirjīr</i>)
and endives (<i>hindibāʾ</i>). Finely chop them until they resemble sesame
seeds and mix [part of] them with the shredded meat. Set the mixture aside.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Now
choose good quality sharp cheese, scrape it with a knife, and collect the
scraped cheese. Coarsely grind walnuts and add them [with the cheese] to the
[set-aside meatless] chopped vegetables. Also add some chopped herbs and rue. A
portion of the chopped vegetables should have been set aside unmixed with the meat.
Next, peel and chop some olives and add them to the [meatless] chopped
vegetable mixture.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Spread a
soft and large <i>ruqāqa</i> [similar to lavash/<i>markook</i> bread], cover it with some of
the meatless vegetable mixture and sprinkle it with seasoned salt. Next, spread
the meat and vegetable mixture [to which you should have added] some spices.
Then arrange a layer of eggs sliced lengthwise. Next, spread another layer of
the meat and vegetable mixture followed by a layer of the meatless vegetable
mixture. Sprinkle them with fine-tasting salt and drizzle them with sweet
vinegar and rose water.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Tightly
roll the bread with the filling and slice it crosswise into discs. Arrange the
[pinwheels] on a platter and pass them around, God willing.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">************************</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I am not giving exact amounts of ingredients here, but a good rule of thumb is to decide how much to use of the main ingredient, which is the cooked meat here, and build around it. The layering is kind of elaborate; the following steps will help you keep track of the layers. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On a lavash bread spread the ingredients in this order:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">1. vegetable mix</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">2. vegetable + meat mix</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">3. sliced eggs</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">4. vegetable + meat mix</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">5. vegetable mix</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Roll it up and slice it into pinwheels.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><div><hr size="1" style="text-align: left;" width="33%" />
<span style="font-family: arial;"><!--[endif]-->
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<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>The full article is published in </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0f1111;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ArabLit-Quarterly-Summer-2021-KITCHEN/dp/B096TN8F9N/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=arablit&qid=1623463772&s=books&sr=1-8" target="_blank">ArabLit Quarterly: Summer 2021: The Kitchen</a></span></span></p><p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="font-size: 12pt; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: 12pt; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkSmLAwfElT-du1B1yd6lTbrs9y4g_lwl4jHELKLKCxFQG4OJt-H40oHOyOXGIYhEzCf-UBaPC19XTHCsa0I0l_l4h2arM9b7RZ7jFaX3aTEbIBNQo7lWvVBrcvk8_UA_c8ye54uTuAp_/s3309/IMG_5266.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2437" data-original-width="3309" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkSmLAwfElT-du1B1yd6lTbrs9y4g_lwl4jHELKLKCxFQG4OJt-H40oHOyOXGIYhEzCf-UBaPC19XTHCsa0I0l_l4h2arM9b7RZ7jFaX3aTEbIBNQo7lWvVBrcvk8_UA_c8ye54uTuAp_/w640-h472/IMG_5266.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: 0in;"><br /></p></div></div></span></span></div>Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-51943901655286110742018-03-08T22:27:00.002-05:002018-03-08T22:28:58.114-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #e69138;"><span style="background-color: white;">Baked <i>Falafel</i>: Light and Delicious</span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #e69138;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>الفلافل الفرنية لذيذة وخفيفة</b></span></span></h2>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Have your </span><i>falafel </i><span style="background-color: white;">and eat them, fry-free! Here is </span><span style="background-color: white;">a way to make sure the chickpeas you are devouring are fully cooked and hence easier on the digestive system. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><i style="text-align: justify;">Falafel</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> is a
Middle-Eastern snack food well known and loved in most parts of the world. Basically, it is
ground chickpeas mixed with herbs and spices, shaped into balls or small patties,
and deep-fried. The variety made with fava beans is called <i>ta'miyya </i>(طعمية). It is the favorite snack food in Egypt. </span><span style="text-align: justify;">Some people, though, prefer to make </span><i style="text-align: justify;">falafel</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> with a combination of chickpeas and fava beans. Interestingly, </span><i style="text-align: justify;">falafel </i><span style="text-align: justify;">in Yemen is called </span><i style="text-align: justify;">bajiyya </i><span style="text-align: justify;">باجية, made with a combination of chickpeas and black-eyed peas (cowpeas), which is <i>lubya </i>in Arabic, and </span><i style="text-align: justify;">dejer </i><span style="text-align: justify;">دجر in the Yemeni vernacular (here is a link for how it is made in </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udWOSqRjQOc" style="text-align: justify;" target="_blank">Yemen</a><span style="text-align: justify;">). </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Whether from chickpeas, fava beans, cowpeas, or whatever beans, this type of fried snack food has always been a very popular food in the Middle East from olden times: a cheap alternative to meat -- it is also known as <i>kebab al-fuqara'</i> (كباب الفقراء) 'kebab of the poor;' and it conveniently replaces meat for Lent meals consumed by fasting Christians. That is how such fried delights -- made with fava beans-- came into being, according to one of the stories, which attributes its beginnings to the ancient Egyptian Copts. </span><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">In fact, that chickpeas were used to replace meat and eggs during Lent is evident from recipes that survived from medieval times. In the tenth-century Baghdadi cookbook <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Nawal-Nasrallah/dp/9004188118/ref=mt_paperback?_encoding=UTF8&me=" target="_blank">كتاب الطبيخ </a>by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq (p. 236), a fried disk is made with mashed chickpeas. The same recipe is repeated in fourteenth-century Egyptian cookbook <a href="https://egyptianmedievalcookbook.wordpress.com/about/" target="_blank">كنز الفوائد</a> (p. 172). Likewise, in the thirteenth-century Andalusian cookbook <i>Anwa' al-Saydala fi Alwan al-At'ima</i> (انواع الصيدلة في الوان الاطعمة), where a similar disc, called <i>isfiriyya </i>اسفرية, is made basically from chickpea flour (p.4). Such meatless dishes were collectively called <i>muzawwarat </i>مزورات, 'false' or 'counterfeit' dishes made to simulate comparable dishes with meat.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">The medieval physicians were also of the opinion that such false dishes were fit for the sick because they were believed to be easier to digest than the meat ones. </span></div>
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<i>Falafel</i> in Iraq was first popularized by the Palestinians who were expelled from their homeland in 1948, and now it has become a favorite street food. However, unlike the rest of the Middle Eastern countries where the falafel sandwich is served rolled in pita bread, the Iraqis usually use sammoun bread (<a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2015/12/eggplant-sandwich-laffat-betinjan.html" target="_blank">صمون</a>) to stuff the fried balls in it. In my recipe below I used pita bread for convenience, but feel free to use any bread comparable to sammoun in texture such as ciabatta. </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><i>Falafel </i>is<i> </i>usually deep fried. </span><span style="text-align: justify;">To give it </span><span style="text-align: justify;">a lighter touch, you may bake it and save yourself the trouble of frying. More importantly, you will be quite sure that the chickpeas will be fully </span><span style="text-align: justify;">cooked, and they will not be as hard on the digestive system. Here is the recipe: </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Baked <i>Falafel</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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(Makes about 18 pieces)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>3 1/2 cups of boiled chickpeas, or use two </b><b>15.5-oz canned chickpeas, rinsed and </b><b>drained well </b></div>
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<b>1 cup parsley, coarsely chopped<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>1/2 cup fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>1/4 cup fresh mint, coarsely chopped, optional <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>2 garlic cloves, grated<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>1/4 cup grated onion</b><br />
<b>3 tablespoons flour, preferably whole wheat</b></div>
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<b>2 teaspoons baking powder</b><br />
<b>1
teaspoon crushed coriander seeds</b></div>
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<b>1
teaspoon ground cumin<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>1/2 teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>¼
teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>½
teaspoon chili powder, or to taste<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>Sesame seeds for coating</b></div>
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<b>Olive oil for brushing</b><br />
<b>Sumac for sprinkling <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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1. Combine and mix all the ingredients (except for the sesame seeds, olive oil, and sumac) in a large bowl. Process the mixture in a food processor, in batches (depending on its size), until smooth. <o:p></o:p></div>
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2. Form falafel mixture into rounded patties (handle with slightly wetted hands), roll each piece in the sesame seeds, and place it in an oiled cookie sheet.</div>
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3. Brush the pieces with olive oil and bake in a preheated oven (400<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">°F</span>), middle shelf, for about 25 minutes, until they nicely crisp and brown. Handle them with care for they will be a bit brittle. <br />
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4. Make <i>falafel </i>sandwiches by arranging three pieces of <i>falafel </i>on a warmed up round of pita bread. Scatter some diced salad
vegetables (such as tomatoes and cucumber, or whatever you prefer). Drizzle all with some <i>tahini
sauce, </i>made by whipping tahini with lemon juice and water, and season with some salt and grated garlic (if sauce turns out to be thick, add some more water and whip). Sprinkle all lightly with some sumac, and roll up the bread, and enjoy.<br />
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You may also serve the <i>falafel </i>without bread: simply arrange the pieces on a platter and serve them with tahini sauce. Also lovely with a dip of pepper jam. </div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-18363026720607635472018-01-08T22:42:00.000-05:002018-02-20T10:01:17.036-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">My Book of <i>Delights </i>is Out!</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
Delights from the Garden of Eden is now out with </span>25% discount<span style="font-weight: normal;"> from the publisher. Follow the link given in Equinox Publishing </span><a href="https://twitter.com/EQUINOXPUB/status/949992940318969856" target="_blank">tweet</a><span style="font-weight: normal;">.</span> </span></h2>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-73078627142874837792017-09-17T23:59:00.001-04:002017-09-17T23:59:54.601-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Stuffed Potato Dough</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<i>Kubbat Puteta Chap</i></h2>
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<b><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ" style="font-family: "diwani letter"; font-size: 20.0pt;">بتيتة جاب<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span dir="LTR"></span>It is </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify;">the best guise that potatoes can ever ta</span><span style="text-align: justify;">ke. The stuffed fried discs are a delight to look at and to eat.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmVzj6i_euDgtXwArOKj2ae5HC_h8b8wqeabioE6nU3HIXl11240Qq6PTml5COQ1LjMd4kP1vaNEAniUFupdWfEq-Zhd1qGB1CgYIPwtQVsL7SzeyFuNfitRhNyc5Qck3kpEW8954lJOL/s1600/poteta+chap+fried+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="633" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmVzj6i_euDgtXwArOKj2ae5HC_h8b8wqeabioE6nU3HIXl11240Qq6PTml5COQ1LjMd4kP1vaNEAniUFupdWfEq-Zhd1qGB1CgYIPwtQVsL7SzeyFuNfitRhNyc5Qck3kpEW8954lJOL/s640/poteta+chap+fried+.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The
meaning of <i>chap</i> in this otherwise
very Iraqi modern dish eludes me. In all probability, it is a corruption of some sort of an English or
Indian word which might have filtered into the
dialect during the time of the British colonization.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">However, the art of making <i>kubba</i>, of stuffing food with food, is certainly not new to the Iraqi cooks. Indeed, it can be traced all the way back the ancient times, as manifested in the Babylonians' bi</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">rd pies, prepared by enclosing birds cooked in white sauce between two layers of seasoned dough. Detailed recipes for making such an ancient stuffed food are found in a Babylonian culinary tablet written in Akkadian cuneiform in 1700 BC:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4h4R6fafOldADKezs2XPfzFqobqGn3H_9jifnE665Hn3jEhNWe-EM9lIW88lRFMpPsa41eJNyi2LrwunptPe7iBBJcA_htdKYFGPyrC6iFZLQ5sU9D5gaHicdOtf0jLivGmUOL7MC7ywd/s1600/YBC+8958+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1306" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4h4R6fafOldADKezs2XPfzFqobqGn3H_9jifnE665Hn3jEhNWe-EM9lIW88lRFMpPsa41eJNyi2LrwunptPe7iBBJcA_htdKYFGPyrC6iFZLQ5sU9D5gaHicdOtf0jLivGmUOL7MC7ywd/s640/YBC+8958+copy.jpg" width="522" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Babylonian culinary tablet 8958, Yale Babylonian Collection </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> Even the term </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">kubba</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"> itself, used to designate this kind of stuffed food, might well have originally derived from the Akkadian ‘k</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">ubbusu,’ which designates a cake (think a meat patty or a fish cake). See also my previous </span><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">post on <i><a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2014/07/kubbat-timman-aka-kubbat-halab-iraqi.html" target="_blank">Kubbat Halab</a></i>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Using the New World potatoes for making <i>kubba</i> is a relatively new development in the art of making <i>kubba, </i>which is more traditionally made with bulgur and rice. <i> </i></span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">Here is how to make it:</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">(Makes 18 to 20 pieces)</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>For
the shell:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2
pounds potatoes (all-purpose will do), boiled whole and unpeeled</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">½ </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">cup cornstarch (use a bit less with starchy potatoes)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1
teaspoon salt</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½
teaspoon black pepper</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>For the filling</b>, see my previous post on <i><a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2014/07/kubbat-timman-aka-kubbat-halab-iraqi.html" target="_blank">kubbat Halab</a></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">About
1 cup breadcrumbs for coating</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Oil
for frying</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1.
Peel the boiled potatoes when cool enough to handle. Cut them into smaller
pieces. Put them in a big bowl, and add cornstarch, salt, and pepper. Then mash
them with a potato masher, or run them through a potato ricer. A blender or a
food processor is not recommended because it will cause the potatoes to develop
a gummy texture. With a moistened hand, knead mixture the way you knead pastry
dough until well blended, about 5 minutes. If the mixture is too dry to form
into dough (sometimes this happens when potatoes are too starchy), sprinkle it with a small
amount of water. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2.
Divide dough into 18 to 20 pieces, size of a small lemon, each. With moistened
hands, flatten a piece into a thin wok-like disk. Put about 2 tablespoons of
the filling in the middle, gather edges, and close the piece into a ball.
Flatten it into a disc by putting it between the palms of the hands and gently
pressing the edges so that it is full in the middle and thinner around the
edges. Always remember to handle dough with slightly moistened hands. Put
finished discs in one layer on a tray or a flat dish. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3.
Put breadcrumbs in a dish, and coat discs before frying. Shake off excess
crumbs. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">4.
Put about an inch of oil in a skillet. When hot, fry discs turning once to
brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes for each side. If they brown quickly, turn
heat down a little. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">5. Put the fried discs in a large colander lined with white
paper towels, and let them cool off a little before serving.
Alternatively, you may spread the paper towels on a rack and put the fried
discs in one layer to cool off. This way you will prevent them from getting
soggy.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Serve warm with lots of salad, and
bread. They also make an exciting filling for a sandwich (too much starch! But
really delicious). Fill a sandwich bread (such as Italian <i>ciabatta</i>) with
a piece or two of <i>puteta chap</i> along
with lots of sliced salad vegetables. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">Baked <i>Puteta Chap</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(Makes 18 to 20 squares)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Most
of the Iraqi traditional dishes are fried, because up until the late 1950s, ovens
were not available in every kitchen as they are today. Nowadays there is no
reason why some of the fried dishes should not be baked. The following is a lighter
version of the traditional puteta chap.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1.
Use the same ingredients given above. Make dough as directed in the first step, and prepare filling
as directed above.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2.
Preheat oven to 380°F. Grease a 12x7x2-inch baking pan (or approximate size). Coat its bottom and sides generously with breadcrumbs. Shake off excess crumbs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3.
Divide dough into 2 parts. Cover the bottom of the prepared pan with one part,
and spread the filling all over it. Next, cover this filling with the other
half of the dough by taking small portions, and flattening and putting them on
the filling until the entire surface is covered. With wet fingers, lightly
press the top layer closing any gaps on the surface. Brush with a beaten egg
and sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs. Decorate surface with a fork, if you like, and drizzle it with a little oil. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">4.
Bake it in the preheated oven for about 40 minutes, or until surface is golden
brown. Let it cool for 10 minutes, and divide it into 18 to 20 squares. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-56643574763259898932016-07-26T18:55:00.001-04:002017-03-06T13:52:00.386-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138;">
The Sweet and the Salty:</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138;">
Cookies of the Medieval Arab World</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138;">with Modern Adaptations</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Follow the advice of the medieval Arab gourmets: Keep your taste buds perked up while snacking on sweet cookies by alternating them with salty ones. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span> </div>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jIoHVtF7daVDXUFIP1C0ix9zSwlpHy8AgRVqFw4BjOkYs9yHukjN1YY9WKUvGcvGK2hApYkNe2eHgXRt4dKaeGluYFcuNxDoGPPR0ti_9e4eCAVGS-fvZfb4aKWq1i9LZusb199VV47A/s1600/02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jIoHVtF7daVDXUFIP1C0ix9zSwlpHy8AgRVqFw4BjOkYs9yHukjN1YY9WKUvGcvGK2hApYkNe2eHgXRt4dKaeGluYFcuNxDoGPPR0ti_9e4eCAVGS-fvZfb4aKWq1i9LZusb199VV47A/s640/02.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "brill" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Growing up in Baghdad, I remember that our favorite snack-time was in the afternoon, when Mom would summon us all to her tray of tea and goodies, typical of which would be an assortment of the flavorful aromatic sweet homemade cookies of <i>kleicha </i>(see my <a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2012/03/kleicha-and-mamoul-c-ookies-whats-in.html" target="_blank">post</a>), some stuffed with sugar and walnut and some with dates, and yet others stuffed with cheese and parsley. Along with these, would also be the purchased sugar-less sesame-encrusted dunking cookies of ka'ak, as well as <i>baqsam</i> (biscotti) and <i>churek </i>(see my <a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2014/04/churek-iraqi-yeast-pastry-and-spring.html" target="_blank">post</a>). A perfect harmony of flavors and textures of which we couldn't have enough and wished the afternoon would last for ever.</span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "brill" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDg_oEwjJSlw4HroBdGZQ_rcxu24FGriUTxbfEBzoUdueXtjqpundHAU_1q-UJZGxCDkckeUYbr-nglx37gwtlaQ58D231TKEknV3_TBTa-k7h8AGvQ4yIqQxuz3UJKgQ2z3lRkO95osK/s1600/laak+sayyid.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDg_oEwjJSlw4HroBdGZQ_rcxu24FGriUTxbfEBzoUdueXtjqpundHAU_1q-UJZGxCDkckeUYbr-nglx37gwtlaQ58D231TKEknV3_TBTa-k7h8AGvQ4yIqQxuz3UJKgQ2z3lRkO95osK/s640/laak+sayyid.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The famous <i>ka'ak</i> bakery of <a href="http://algardenia.com/mochtaratt/10925-2014-06-12-19-40-45.html" target="_blank">Al-Seyyid</a> in downtown Baghdad</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">A Bit of History:</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Of the more than 300 varieties of breads the ancient Mesopotamians of Iraq knew, a good number of them were of the kind they called 'improved'. They were cookies, cakes and pastries variously enriched with clarified butter, dairy, beer, sweeteners, nuts, and dried fruits. The cookies were shaped into rings, pillars, turbans, crescents, hearts, heads, hands, ears, and even women's breasts. Such top quality breads were called 'kuku' in Akkadian, the ancient language of the Mesopotamians, from which the Arabic <i>ka'k</i> (كعك) must have derived. Mesopotamia was indeed the cradle of cookies.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And the tradition continued. The existing cookbooks of the medieval Arabo-Islamic world testify to the sophistication and popularity of cookie-making and consumption. The most prevalent were those stuffed with nuts or dates, back then called <i>khushkananaj</i> (خشكنانج), which resemble the ancient Mesopotamian 'qullupu' cookies, and the <i>kleicha </i>and <i>ma'mul </i>of modern times. There were also varieties of the <i>ka'k </i>dry cookies, sandwich cookies, glazed cookies, and there were the delicate almond cookies, sensuously called virgin's breasts. All differently infused with the aromas of rosewater and musk, seasoned with spices, and decked with nuts.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here is the recipe for virgin's breasts:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QwDPiG5au8th_zuzEtQMypvKafu4XepgtnIbgxL7oRrydSoEuB8ICRHTBALZjV-lF23Ff7xCAl2IVLbzdom2QhwnmDK-dtuL2dA3FabgyFWt7F2pxjr8RgTEm-CPfVzi55Tg_DDVhqKT/s1600/Image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QwDPiG5au8th_zuzEtQMypvKafu4XepgtnIbgxL7oRrydSoEuB8ICRHTBALZjV-lF23Ff7xCAl2IVLbzdom2QhwnmDK-dtuL2dA3FabgyFWt7F2pxjr8RgTEm-CPfVzi55Tg_DDVhqKT/s640/Image.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsje2GbP1gsg-PyYYVRD4otzJJI4ZGUAHNjETIoZ6A_5fVjUHYMqeaw9fwFSSS1VKXmcbO2pptn1E9cgM0mDYoVN8rGi1VKf1-srv6MwNtD3m8n2mnA-4D9NNA999CT_K32UH31RkV-s7P/s1600/Image+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsje2GbP1gsg-PyYYVRD4otzJJI4ZGUAHNjETIoZ6A_5fVjUHYMqeaw9fwFSSS1VKXmcbO2pptn1E9cgM0mDYoVN8rGi1VKf1-srv6MwNtD3m8n2mnA-4D9NNA999CT_K32UH31RkV-s7P/s640/Image+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Two versions of the cookie recipe </span><i style="font-size: 12.8px;">nuhood al-adhraa'</i><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> (virgin's breasts) from 14th-century كتاب وصف الاطعمة المعتادة (Book of Recipes of the Traditional Dishes), which is an augmented version of 13th-century al-Baghdadi's cookbook كتاب الطبيخ (Cookery Book) </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZUdZcEQ8Vo72EuCwdP3j50GmkJZrTThcQ4tv5iNHhVXZSsoIxmbIwey_vLH7fmpzKKicI6w-6sJ5BibDsjy4lKU5jRxDwwyVOJGVZcyOjWXF8ZzkSArsigbf7KW072A-daX1qdOlYNZX/s1600/Image+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZUdZcEQ8Vo72EuCwdP3j50GmkJZrTThcQ4tv5iNHhVXZSsoIxmbIwey_vLH7fmpzKKicI6w-6sJ5BibDsjy4lKU5jRxDwwyVOJGVZcyOjWXF8ZzkSArsigbf7KW072A-daX1qdOlYNZX/s640/Image+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The same recipe in 14th-century Egyptian cookbook <i>Kanz al-Fawa'id</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;">"One part flour, one part clarified butter (</span><i style="text-align: justify;">samn</i><span style="text-align: justify;">), one part sugar, and one part almond. Crush them all together, knead them very well, and shape it like breasts. Water is not used. Arrange pieces in a yellow-copper tray (</span><i style="text-align: justify;">ṭabaq</i><span style="text-align: justify;">) and bake them in a brick oven (</span><i style="text-align: justify;">furn</i><span style="text-align: justify;">)." (English translation mine)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Only one recipe survived, which describes how to make salted cookies. The recipe explains that these cookies are to be offered with the sweet ones, in case the eater’s appetite dulls with having only sweet foods. Here it is: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "brill" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbonPcFZw1G4HBf7sCExtRRqWmaoKEjpAEAw_6HN5mtldhWs9wUeiPAyj_vKyXsjkfJrcjJSE0tK8mUJJtoAWShS0ia_szImW5JzhC0ViOsGBhM0qMk2L5urUx29ErOCfB9o3U3Bv7CaH7/s1600/Image+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbonPcFZw1G4HBf7sCExtRRqWmaoKEjpAEAw_6HN5mtldhWs9wUeiPAyj_vKyXsjkfJrcjJSE0tK8mUJJtoAWShS0ia_szImW5JzhC0ViOsGBhM0qMk2L5urUx29ErOCfB9o3U3Bv7CaH7/s640/Image+%25284%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recipe for aqraas mamlooha (salted cookies) from 14th-century Egyptian cookbook Kan al-Fawa'id</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;">"Take as much as you need of flour. For
each</span><i style="text-align: justify;"> raṭl</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> (1 pound/4 cups), use ¼ </span><i style="text-align: justify;">raṭl</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> (4
ounces/½ cup) sesame oil, and enough salt to give a noticeably salty taste.
Knead [the ingredients with yeast and water], and after dough rises shape it
into discs as you do with </span><i style="text-align: justify;">khubz</i><i style="text-align: justify;"> al-abā</i><i style="text-align: justify;">zī</i><i style="text-align: justify;">r</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> (cookies with spice-seeds)</span><span style="text-align: justify;">,
but make them a little bit thinner, and bake them. After they develop a golden
hue (</span><i style="text-align: justify;">tawarrada</i><span style="text-align: justify;">), take them out. These cookies are offered in case the
eater’s appetite dulls from having sweet foods. Therefore, they are to be
served while having them." (English translation mine) </span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Following are my adaptations of the two cookies, the sweet and the salty. </span></h3>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "brill" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">A</span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">lmond Kisses</span></span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">(بسكت باللوز)</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">Makes 20 pieces</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDACUNxFBjrPviux2cp_HWIhcWKLhjdUnaciZ_D8taOpj-e9TX13TWCBQ5_wRWOA3aGNKLjKkZ_ZFCaAfmahvGZsA-Y0VAvsuo1w8-Ufyg4PuhcnmYD691GvqDqG_gjZJ63OW09ZiOu2r/s1600/03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDACUNxFBjrPviux2cp_HWIhcWKLhjdUnaciZ_D8taOpj-e9TX13TWCBQ5_wRWOA3aGNKLjKkZ_ZFCaAfmahvGZsA-Y0VAvsuo1w8-Ufyg4PuhcnmYD691GvqDqG_gjZJ63OW09ZiOu2r/s640/03.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1 cup all-purpose flour</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1 cup almond flour</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">3/4 cup sugar</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1 teaspoon baking powder</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/4 teaspoon salt</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: justify;">1/2 cup oil (such as canola)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">3 tablespoons rosewater</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">20 raisins</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrU2g62raGJmJYd3k6vYCzu378aClPExVL65bq_6cDLwFIs0i-aaCPeWDnmg4RLVd1ymYQBOeKlp8qSBE9-wKx1uj7SzUxflY5zsRN_PIvhA60vvsIYoJxek8h7LsiqCsVSny-km9XwAWV/s1600/01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrU2g62raGJmJYd3k6vYCzu378aClPExVL65bq_6cDLwFIs0i-aaCPeWDnmg4RLVd1ymYQBOeKlp8qSBE9-wKx1uj7SzUxflY5zsRN_PIvhA60vvsIYoJxek8h7LsiqCsVSny-km9XwAWV/s400/01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1. Put all the dry ingredients (the first six) in a food processor, and pulse once or twice to mix ingredients.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">2. Add oil slowly through the tube, and pulse a few more times.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;">3. </span><span style="text-align: justify;">Add the rosewater, and pulse several times until the mix clumps together. Add a bit more if needed.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">4. Take a walnut-size piece, press by hand into a ball and place it on a lightly oiled cookie sheet. Slightly moisten your hands with a bit of rosewater while handling the mix. Repeat with the rest of pieces. Press a raisin in the middle of each piece, and bake on the middle shelf of a preheated oven (375 F.) for 13 to 15 minutes (do not let them over bake). During the last two minutes of baking, let the cookies bake on the top shelf of the oven. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal; text-align: justify;">Cheesy Cookies</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">(بسكت بالجبن)</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">Makes 26 pieces</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"> </span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;">2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">2 teaspoons baking powder</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">2 teaspoons dried dill weed</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/2 teaspoon salt</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/2 teaspoon ground aniseeds</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/4 teaspoon ground nigella seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/4 teaspoon ground dried ginger </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: justify;">1 cup shredded cheddar cheese</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/2 cup oil (such as canola)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1/2 cup yogurt</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">2 eggs, divided</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: justify;">26 macadamia or hazelnuts nuts</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">chili pepper, for sprinkling, optional</span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">1. Stir dry ingredients (first seven) in a bowl.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">2. Stir in the cheese by fork or hand.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">3. Beat together oil, yogurt and one egg, and pour them on the flour mix. Stir with a fork or by fingers in a circular movement at first to allow the flout to absorb the moisture, and then knead them into a medium-consistency dough.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">4. Lightly flour the working space. Take some of the dough, and flatten it with a rolling pin to 1/3-inch thickness. Cut it into shapes with cookie cutters. Arrange the pieces on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Stick a macadamia nut or a hazelnut in each cookie, and sprinkle surface with chili pepper (optional). Beat the second egg and brush the pieces with it.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;">5. Bake </span><span style="text-align: justify;">on the middle shelf of a preheated oven (375 F.) for about 15 minutes. During the last two minutes of baking, let the cookies bake on the top shelf of the oven.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">Enjoy!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "brill" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-45652295596177510422016-04-04T11:52:00.001-04:002017-02-07T15:43:43.475-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">Everybody Loves Salsa</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"> Mustard and Vinegar Sauce</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">خل وخردل</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The perfect salsa for your grilled dishes:</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIusca5mDvUZfdOf8QRiQQSmkssDGscPx1Hsm2uYobU_JAIEtjusv4ZyVk8PV88P_XSjN9ZC3jds1Mv2gQbVXu6CXGdBqBPcqpIyxBPakRs-7d4f7HgpoOZXN7qDx8Br-PbF1bxC2LN9-M/s1600/IMG_1915+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIusca5mDvUZfdOf8QRiQQSmkssDGscPx1Hsm2uYobU_JAIEtjusv4ZyVk8PV88P_XSjN9ZC3jds1Mv2gQbVXu6CXGdBqBPcqpIyxBPakRs-7d4f7HgpoOZXN7qDx8Br-PbF1bxC2LN9-M/s640/IMG_1915+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In
modern Iraq what first comes to one’s mind at the mention of the words <i>sauce</i>
and <i>salsa</i> is a store-bought bottle of steak sauce similar to A1, which
we use primarily with hamburger sandwiches. We think of <i>salsa</i> as a loan
word and a foreign concept. Other store-bought sauces are more commonly known by their
names, such as <i>khardal</i> (yellow mustard sauce), ketchup, and mayonnaise.
Homemade dips and sauces are usually given names, such as <i>hummus bi-thina</i>,
<i>jajeek</i> (yogurt sauce), etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The general consensus nowadays regarding the etymological origin of <i>salsa</i> and <i>sauce is that </i>they have been borrowed into English from Spanish and French, respectively, and that
both ultimately come from Latin <i>salsus</i> ‘salted,’ which stems from <i>sal</i>
‘salt,’ which indeed is an important ingredient in making sauce and salsa (see <i>American
Heritage Dictionary</i> 4<sup>th</sup> edition). BUT:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Etymology
aside, serving dishes with some sort of sauce, relish, or condiment is
an ancient custom going back to the ancient world. In one of the Babylonian
recipes preserved on cuneiform tablets written around 1700 <span style="font-variant: small-caps;">BC</span>, there are directions for the cook to
send the dish to the table accompanied with “garlic, greens, and vinegar” (Jean
Bottéro, <i>Mesopotamian Culinary Texts</i> 12). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Given the high level of
sophistication the ancient Mesopotamian cuisine achieved, it is likely that
these ingredients were presented in the form of a relish, or what we call today
<i>salsa</i>, i.e. chopped and mixed with vinegar. Otherwise, there is no logic
in imagining that these ingredients were actually presented to the aristocratic diners
in separate containers, so that they munch on whole garlic cloves and
vegetables, and sip vinegar from a bowl. In fact, judging from the Akkadian herbal texts
and related medicinal practices, such relishes and sauces were indeed meant to
function as appetizers and digestives. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Later
on, the ancient Greeks and the Romans showed the same tendencies, as
exemplified in<i> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apicius" target="_blank">Apicius</a></i>, </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">the
only cookbook which came down to us from classical antiquity, believed to have
been compiled around late 4</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> or early 5</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> century <span style="font-variant: small-caps;">AD</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. The book abounds with sauce recipes
called </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">oenogarum</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. They were served with all kinds of meat and
vegetables, such as in the recipe “Herb sauce for fried fish:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .5in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Prepare, wash, and fry whatever
fish you like. Pound pepper, cumin, coriander seed, laser root [asafetida],
oregano, rue, pound again; pour on vinegar, add date, honey, <i>defrutum</i>
[reduced grape juice], oil, flavor with <i>liquamen</i> [fermented fish sauce].
Put into a pan, bring it to heat; when it is simmering, pour it over the fried
fish, sprinkle with pepper and serve. (Grocock and Grainger, <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Apicius-Marcus-Gavius/dp/1903018447/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459780286&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=apicius%2C+granger" target="_blank">Apicius</a></i>
301) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Evidently,
the tradition of serving meat and vegetable dishes with the suitable dips and
sauces continued well into the medieval times. In the Islamic-Arab medieval world,
the general Arabic word used designating such condiments was <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">إدام</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>idam</i> and <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">صباغ </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>sibagh</i>.
To my knowledge, the earliest record occurs in the <i>Qur’an</i> (revealed
between 610 and 632 <span style="font-variant: small-caps;">AD</span>), where the
olive tree is said to provide people with oil used as <i>sibgh</i> (<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ">صِبغ</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>) condiment (<i>Al-Mu’minoun</i>, Chapter xxiii: verse 20). Indeed,
olive oil along with vinegar was deemed the most basic of all condiments. We
still relish a dip of seasoned olive oil with bread, and think of it as being an
exclusively Italian simple dip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now,
we come to the earliest extant Arabic cookbook, which is al-Warraq’s tenth-century
Baghdadi cookbook <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i> <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">كتاب الطبيخ </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span>. It covers the
Abbasid cuisine from late eighth to mid- tenth century. This cookbook contains
many recipes for condiments called <i>sibagh</i> (<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ">صباغ</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>), which are similar to what we have in <i>Apicius</i>.
They are served as dips and sauces with meat, fish, and vegetable dishes, as an
aid to digestion, particularly with grilled dishes, as they were thought to be
hard to digest. Fish was deemed especially bad for the digestion, due to its
cold properties, unless aided with the suitable <i>sibagh</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In al-Warraq’s chapter dealing with fish
dips, the book explains that sauces cooked with asafetida, onion, and spices
aid digestion and sauces cooked with raisins and pomegranate seeds whet the
appetite and help purge the food out of the system fast. The best were sauces cooked
with sumac and almond because they digest very fast. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
gourmet prince Ibrahim bin al-Mahdi (d. 839), half-brother of Harun al-Rasheed,
composed a poem on a perfect fish dish served with <i>sibagh </i>(al-Warraq, Chapter 33):<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">وطاه اتى في
يوم قيظ بصحفة وفيها
من الشبوط كالجدي احمرا<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">قد احكمه شيّا
وصير حشوه كرفسا وكراثا وزيتا وصعترا<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">وهيّا له من
بعد ذلك صباغه عصارة رمان ولوز وسكّرا<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">وخلا ومريا
وانجذانا وفلفلا وزيتا
ركابيا وجوزا وكزبرا<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">فجاء بها
كالشمس لونا وبهجة تعاطيك انجوجا ومسكا وعنبرا<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On a hot
summer day, the cook brought us a dish of <i>shabbut</i> (carp) fish, a golden kid-roast resembled.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Masterly
roasted; with parsley, leeks, olive oil, and thyme stuffed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then its <i>sibagh</i>
he made of pomegranate juice, sugar, and almond,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vinegar, <i>murri</i>,
asafetida leaves, black pepper, olive oil, walnut, and coriander.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: .2in;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">He
brought it in looking like the sun, a radiant delight, redolent with aloe wood<i>,</i>
musk, and <i>amber </i>(My translation, in <i><a href="http://www.brill.com/annals-caliphs-kitchens-0" target="_blank">Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens</a></i>)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Sibagh</i> was sometimes served as a dip
alongside the grilled or fried dishes. It was put in small bowls called <i>sakarij</i>. They were used communally by
the eaters, which necessitated that they should stay clean. Diners were
strongly cautioned against what today is called double dipping -- dip a morsel
into the <i>sibagh</i> bowl<i>,</i> have a bite, and dip it again (as happens in one of Seinfeld's episodes). Such a person back then was disparagingly called <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">القطّاع</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>al-qattaa’</i>
‘the cutter.’ <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Etymologically,
one of the medieval meanings of <i>sibagh</i> was ‘a dip,’ from the verb <i>sabagha</i>
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">صبغ </span> 'to dip.’ Interestingly, this term was also
applied to the Christians’ rite of baptizing children, and explains why John
the Baptist, for example, was given the name <i>Yohanna al-Sabbagh</i> <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">يوحنا الصباغ</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><i><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>. <o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It
turns out the word ultimately derives from the ancient Mesopotamian language.
In the Akkadian dictionary, the verb <i>sapu</i> (variant <i>saba’u</i>) means
‘to soak, drench.’ Interestingly, this also sheds light on the meaning of the
name of an ancient religious group that still exists in modern Iraq, the
Sabians (<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">الصابئة</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>). In the Iraqi
dialect, they are called <i>Subba</i>, followers of John the Baptist, who
choose to live close to rivers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To
resume the subject of sauces and dips, as we come to the thirteenth century, we
notice some kind of development. In al-Baghdadi’s cookbook <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i>, <i>sibagh</i>
recipes given were no longer poured all over the cooked meat and vegetables.
Instead, they were presented as separate appetizers to be eaten with bread.
According to al-Baghdadi, they were given between dishes, to cleanse the palate,
sharpen the appetite, and aid digestion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In
the rest of the extant medieval Arabic cookbooks, which belong more or less to the
same era as that of al-Baghdadi's, such as the Aleppan <i>Al-Wusla ila ’l-Habeeb</i>
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">الوصلة الى الحبيب</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> by the Syrian
historian Ibn al-‘Adeem and the Egyptian <i>Kanz al-Fawa’id</i> <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">كنز الفوائد</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>, we come across condiments known by the
name <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">صُلص</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>/<span dir="RTL"></span><span dir="RTL"></span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA"><span dir="RTL"></span><span dir="RTL"></span> صلوصات</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>suls</i>/ <i>sulusat</i> (singular <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">صَلص</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>sals</i>). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From
the many recipes given in these books, we realize we are dealing with
condiments — in content and function — similar to those of <i>sibagh</i>.
However, from the <i>sulusat</i> recipes we infer that the dips and sauces
started to be made smoother and uniform in consistency. The ingredients were
pounded in a mortar until they resembled <i>marham</i> (ointment), as one of
the recipes specified. The cook was also instructed to adjust the liquid added
until the mixture attains <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">قوام الصلص</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i>qiwam al-sals</i> (sauce consistency), which I take
to be neither runny nor too thick, the eater should be able to pick up some of
the sauce with a piece of bread. Some of the sauces were meant for immediate
use, such as the one prepared by mixing yogurt with pounded garlic and mint.
Others were sealed in containers for up to a month. In one of the recipes, the
prepared sauce was kept in one-time-use bottles because the sauce would mold
after the bottle was opened. Here is its recipe from the Egyptian cookbook <i>Kanz
al-Fawa’id</i>, recipe no. 491, called sals Kamili (<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">صلص
كاملي</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>), most probably after the Ayyubid King al-Malik al-Kamil, who
ruled 1218 to 1238:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNeH4hayFm0slol5huUY5tZlPs8q9ynLAQLGqO6TCcWxzhKpwzpOz7hbIOk42p-daEtrsMlzaBuhc2xww7_C31-Ki0TNHifedCAMPQ9Myw_oM_uBB68kFgJBpDTt1yHg_wit7E04gOCLh/s1600/DP137533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNeH4hayFm0slol5huUY5tZlPs8q9ynLAQLGqO6TCcWxzhKpwzpOz7hbIOk42p-daEtrsMlzaBuhc2xww7_C31-Ki0TNHifedCAMPQ9Myw_oM_uBB68kFgJBpDTt1yHg_wit7E04gOCLh/s400/DP137533.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12-century glass bottle, probably Syrian.<br />
Credit: MET Museum, 2005,318,<br />
Friends of Islamic Art Gifts, 2005 </td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Recipe
for<i> Sals Kamili</i>:</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Take
the very tender leaves from the tips of citron stems (<i>qulub al-utrunj</i>),
soak them in fine-tasting water, and then [drain them and] take one part, and
pound them in <i>jurn al-fuqqa’i</i>. Take a similar amount, by weight, of
chervil (<i>baqdunis</i>), and another similar amount of <i>rayhan turunji </i>(lemon
balm). Pound them in the same manner, and mix them all; sprinkle on them
crushed <i>Andarani</i> salt (rock salt), and squeeze in what is needed of lime
juice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Empty
the sauce into glass bottles, and seal their surfaces with sweet olive oil. In
each bottle, there should be an amount enough for a single table. Before
serving the sauce, [a mix of] galangal, ginger, cloves, and black pepper—all
crushed, are sprinkled on it to give it a delicious flavor. Some people choose
to use it without adding these spices (My translation). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It
is still unresolved whether the <i>suls</i> dipping condiments were indigenous
to the Middle Eastern region, etymologically and in substance, or whether they were an
imported concept during the time of the Crusades. However, I venture here to
side with the former. The condiment in all its varieties has a long established
history in the region. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Besides, the name, after all, might not necessarily have been Latin in origin (from </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">salsus</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">sal</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">). In the major medieval
Arabic dictionaries, </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">salas</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (pl. </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">suls</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">) is descriptive of the
consistency of ‘soft mud,’ which indeed is applicable to the consistency of the
sauces, described above. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Clearly, the history of salsa needs to be revised in light of
what is being discovered of the medieval Arab cuisine. Meanwhile here is a simple medieval recipe to enjoy for a c</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">ondiment, usually served with grilled meat, from al-Baghdadi’s thirteenth-century cookbook </span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">كتاب الطبيخ</span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kitab al-Tabeekh</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. It is called <i>Khal wa Khardal </i>(vinegar and mustard): </span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Take sweet almonds, skin them, finely pound them, and mix them with very sour vinegar, adding enough of it to thin down the mix. Finely pound mustard seeds and add, as much as you wish of it to the the almond mix, along with the spice blend <i>atraf al-teeb</i> (My translation). </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mustard and Vinegar Sauce<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(<i>Khal wa Khardal</i>)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ" style="font-size: 20pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">خل وخردل<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This
is my adaptation of this recipe: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> ½ cup (2 ounces) whole almonds,
toasted and cooled<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> 1 cup (2 ounces) chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> ¼ cup olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> ¼ cup vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> 2 tablespoons mustard sauce<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> 1 teaspoon thyme or <i>za'tar</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> ½ teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> ¼ teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b> </b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1.
Put almonds, parsley, and garlic in a blender or food processor. Blend, adding
oil gradually until mixture is well pureed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2.
Add vinegar, mustard, thyme, salt, and pepper. Pulse mixture for a few seconds
to blend.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Delicious
with all kinds of grilled meat. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-66327354018451834822015-12-16T17:26:00.005-05:002023-07-15T16:08:29.111-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0.2in;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #990000; font-weight: normal;">Eggplant Sandwich </span></span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #990000;"> لفّة بيتنجان</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #990000;"><i>Laffat Betinjan</i></span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #741b47; text-align: left;">Vegetarians' paradise!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguS3JyRoejPrIjXeuU5dz-B0mt81lKlg1k_D9EVapup6tYGJLoqMyVflbAHWtyV8exMEHpzzOgDZECFDjTDZBkrH6EJDhCtpfL6d0i0YgxsKh7tSSAe7-prv6wsHpt3BpEJ4V1GZ5Tkjt5/s1600/IMG_1858+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguS3JyRoejPrIjXeuU5dz-B0mt81lKlg1k_D9EVapup6tYGJLoqMyVflbAHWtyV8exMEHpzzOgDZECFDjTDZBkrH6EJDhCtpfL6d0i0YgxsKh7tSSAe7-prv6wsHpt3BpEJ4V1GZ5Tkjt5/s640/IMG_1858+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Eggplant makes easy but bewitchingly scrumptious sandwiches. They are quite popular in Iraq, eaten especially at dinnertime, the time for the smaller meal of the day (for lunch, more serious stuff is offered). Interestingly, Iraqi Jews used to eat it for the Sabbath morning meal, and they simply called it <i>laffa</i> (wrap sandwich), and they are the ones credited for making it a popular sandwich in Israel today, where it is more popularly known as </span></span></span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">sabich. </i><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify;"><i>Sabich</i>, the name, is most probably derived from the word </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">subuh</i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify;"> 'morning', which hearkens to the old times of Baghdad when the sandwich was a Sabbath morning staple. (Have a look at <span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.haaretz.com/jewish/2012-06-07/ty-article/modern-manna-recipe-homemade-sabich-eggplant-egg-tahini-and-pickled-mango/0000017f-f984-d7c0-afff-fdceefd10000" target="_blank">Vered Guttman</a>'s i</span>nteresting article)</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;"><span style="text-align: justify;">To prepare <i>laffat batinjan</i>, piping-hot fried slices of eggplant with slices of tomatoes and pickles (especially <a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/pickles_turshi" target="_blank"><i>amba</i></a> 'pickled mango') are wrapped in the <i>tannour</i>-baked flat bread</span><span style="text-align: justify;"> <i>khubuz</i></span></span></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">). <i>Laffa, </i>lit. a wrap, eventually gave its name to all types of sandwiches, wrapped and otherwise, such as when <i>sammoon </i>bread is used instead, by slashing it open and stuffing it. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-zO_gB6KM201Accwu9a2g2oDwHon7NqY6DKym_DGLuQxH-4zUlVw_QGTghreQ55s-LnnBWmThyc1nNWlTCy6A5EiFRb5U50OvqeGQ_3iyxmXC6qKyCMQ-j4Ze2vOzuom_hwtkosTEFaCH/s1600/tenur-irak11.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-zO_gB6KM201Accwu9a2g2oDwHon7NqY6DKym_DGLuQxH-4zUlVw_QGTghreQ55s-LnnBWmThyc1nNWlTCy6A5EiFRb5U50OvqeGQ_3iyxmXC6qKyCMQ-j4Ze2vOzuom_hwtkosTEFaCH/s400/tenur-irak11.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amouda.com/t-tanur.htm" target="_blank"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><i>Khubuz</i></span></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ESlAvCEUl0B-_Z6ykNmuBEqnXVjboi6FCb8cICOmiAN1ReWr3Tj9mTmmn1b1PD6sJYNXfKLcM2mwTgP1nlc9FeFTOgTw-UsytemB-n7ZyN9HdLeiUw0o73wwSDW7Q1YH8P1wwNjRje-H/s1600/sep14_g04_iraq.jpg__600x0_q85_upscale.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ESlAvCEUl0B-_Z6ykNmuBEqnXVjboi6FCb8cICOmiAN1ReWr3Tj9mTmmn1b1PD6sJYNXfKLcM2mwTgP1nlc9FeFTOgTw-UsytemB-n7ZyN9HdLeiUw0o73wwSDW7Q1YH8P1wwNjRje-H/s640/sep14_g04_iraq.jpg__600x0_q85_upscale.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: small; text-align: justify;"><i>Sammoon</i> is traditionally shaped into diamonds and baked in the commercial brick oven.</span></div>
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<a href="http://thumbs.media.smithsonianmag.com//filer/71/09/71099e76-945a-4e28-a9e9-90ba95b4719f/sep14_g04_iraq.jpg__600x0_q85_upscale.jpg" target="_blank">Iraqi<i> sammoon</i></a> (photo by <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/amid-heated-debates-iraqi-immigrants-struggle-make-living-arizona-180952433/" target="_blank">Bryan Schatmaat</a>)</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 19.2px;">A Bit of History:</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">It is believed that the Eggplant has been growing in the Mesopotamian region since ancient times. According to the Assyriologist Jean Bottero, author of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oldest-Cuisine-World-Cooking-Mesopotamia/dp/0226067343/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450296666&sr=8-2&keywords=jean+bottero" target="_blank">The Oldest Cuisine in the World</a>, eggplant was one of the items offered to guests of the most famous feast held by the Assyrian King Ashurnasirpal II in the ninth century BC (p. 103). </span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Besides, in a monograph on the Assyrian vegetable drugs <i>The Assyrian Herbal</i>, based on 600 Assyrian cuneiform tablets, Campbell Thompson, the translator of these ancient Akkadian documents, is of the opinion that the plant pi(l)lu perhaps refers to Solanum Melengena L, eggplant. Pillu, at that time, he says, was also used to designate 'egg' and the mandrake fruit, which itself belongs to the same family as that of the eggplant. It is the </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">nightshade (Solanaceae), a family of dubious history.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCM_JjaaYh0C0xtE6biCu9LxYED662-XNCvyz55t3ZiOkLQQyAGVKd2dyDU9EcphSgBD8QqAhopW-LPb6vt27pVDYXTdxgI7pyVMqvxXdAmR-Lsk0_0xICsbpd8BGqZamTjwkmGnQbC9mR/s1600/mandrake.png" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCM_JjaaYh0C0xtE6biCu9LxYED662-XNCvyz55t3ZiOkLQQyAGVKd2dyDU9EcphSgBD8QqAhopW-LPb6vt27pVDYXTdxgI7pyVMqvxXdAmR-Lsk0_0xICsbpd8BGqZamTjwkmGnQbC9mR/s320/mandrake.png" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandrake <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandrake" target="_blank">fruit</a></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The mandrake itself has long been associated with witchcraft and magic rituals and potions. It was mentioned as a ‘love plant’ in the Bible (Genesis and Songs of Songs).</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">In classical Arabic, the word luffah (لفّاح) designated both the eggplant and the mandrake. Medieval Arabic sources also called the eggplant <i>badhinjan, </i>a name we still use today. It is said to have originally been <i>beidh al-jinn</i> </span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">بيض الجن</span><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><span dir="LTR" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"></span><span dir="LTR" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"></span></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>), that is 'eggs of demons', which may be linked to the ancient Assyrian name pillu 'egg', mentioned above.</span></span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;">In the medieval Arab-Islamic world, the eggplant </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.2in;">was the least favorite vegetable among their physicians, who unanimously condemned eating it, and the bitterness of the vegetable has a lot to do with this. It was said to generate black bile, cancer, melasma (kalaf), and blockages.</span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.2in;">But people ate it and loved it anyway. To gastronomes, it was the most acclaimed and inspiring vegetable. Medieval cookbooks offer a generous number of sumptuous eggplant dishes, the most famous of which were Buraniyyat named after Buran (d. 884), wife of Abbasid Caliph al-Ma’moun. Poetically, it was pictured as a black pigeon nesting in a vibrantly green orchard, with its emerald beak picking up sesame seeds and entrusting them in their ambergris gizzards.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.2in;">Here are some verses by the famous tenth-century Abbasid gourmet poet Kushajim (in <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i> by al-Warraq, Chapter 45, my translation):</span></div>
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<span dir="RTL" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" lang="AR-IQ" style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">جمان ضمّه سبح عليه زبرجدة تضمّنها قضيب<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span dir="RTL" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" lang="AR-IQ" style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">تميّز طعمه من كل طعم فمعجله ومنضجه يطيب<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span dir="RTL" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" lang="AR-IQ" style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">وتاقت انفس الظرفاء طرّاً اليه لانه شيء عجيب<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">فليس يعافه الاّ عيّ</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">وليس يحبّه إلاّ أريب</span></span></div>
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has a taste like saliva a generous lover offers. </span></div>
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pearl in a black gown, with an emerald set on it, from which a stem extends.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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taste, ‘tis like no other, whether hurriedly cooked or done well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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for this little wonder, the witty in hosts hasten to it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;">Fools only have no appetite for it. As for the smart, they just love it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjxffPhTDO8Z1Ofw2Hk0poTfCq-gSHl0bS81bgDCpMj27fXhSJkmG01jTy60ZD5FdD8yh4CvKW2uYORgHotYXpSBpoC7_3-zcYV2Mt3jwUJANSR56SKqRJXa8PujaaZUUz8iMmBmxQ3CCB/s1600/Tacuinum+Sanitatis%252C+ca.+1400+ca.+1400+Eggplant+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjxffPhTDO8Z1Ofw2Hk0poTfCq-gSHl0bS81bgDCpMj27fXhSJkmG01jTy60ZD5FdD8yh4CvKW2uYORgHotYXpSBpoC7_3-zcYV2Mt3jwUJANSR56SKqRJXa8PujaaZUUz8iMmBmxQ3CCB/s640/Tacuinum+Sanitatis%252C+ca.+1400+ca.+1400+Eggplant+%25283%2529.jpg" width="579" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eggplant illustrated in 14th-century <a href="http://bjws.blogspot.com/2015/05/illuminated-manuscripts-growing.html" target="_blank">Tacuinum Sanitatus</a>, based on Taquim al-Sihha (تقويم الصحة) by Ibn Butlan, 11th-century Arab Christian physician from Baghdad </td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">To lessen the harms of eggplant, the medieval physician al-Razi (d. 923) for instance, recommended parboiling it before incorporating it into the dishes, as this would get rid of most of its harmful stuff. The best way for cooking it after this initial step was frying it in light oils such as almond oil or sesame oil. He also recommended peeling and slashing the eggplant then stuffing it with salt and soaking it in cold water for a while, before using it. Grilling was not recommended because it would not rid the eggplant of its bitter, hot, and sharp taste. This explains the absence of recipes for grilled eggplant in extant medieval sources. The closest recipe we have to our modern <i>baba ghannou</i>j was a 13th-century Buran dish, in which fried eggplant was mashed and mixed with garlic, coriander seeds, salt, and yogurt (in <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i> by al-Baghdadi). <br /><br /> In Iraq today eggplant is a summer crop, which though quite popular, is still maligned, such as when people lose their temper, they put the blame on eating eggplant; or cautioning distressed people against eating it; otherwise it will cause hives. </span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">But see <a href="http://www.well-beingsecrets.com/eggplant-health-benefits/#History" target="_blank">this article</a> for modern day views on eggplants (and more <a href="http://www.well-beingsecrets.com/favorite-eggplant-recipes/" target="_blank">recipes</a>).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAc-7QI2GGfxCFA9dOogtqttHjkB5nqS7n4R5p18uI8RiJMuXHlH9eokMxa3Ebi8GMxuH6z0TyzxYMjEYBlmQA4sqTW6t8H8sMY_kuJDGIkwtLR_Xq5dPHO4RZJuA1OrKfIDVCGjyMohNj/s1600/Tacuinum+Sanitatis%252C+ca.+1400+Eggplant.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAc-7QI2GGfxCFA9dOogtqttHjkB5nqS7n4R5p18uI8RiJMuXHlH9eokMxa3Ebi8GMxuH6z0TyzxYMjEYBlmQA4sqTW6t8H8sMY_kuJDGIkwtLR_Xq5dPHO4RZJuA1OrKfIDVCGjyMohNj/s640/Tacuinum+Sanitatis%252C+ca.+1400+Eggplant.jpg" width="566" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-indent: 19.2px;">Eggplant illustrated in 14th-century <a href="http://bjws.blogspot.com/2015/05/illuminated-manuscripts-growing.html" target="_blank">Tacuinum Sanitatus</a>, see above caption</span></td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white;">Here is how to prepare the eggplant to make sandwiches with it:</span></h3>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: 14pt;">Fried Eggplant<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span dir="RTL" face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" lang="AR-IQ">بيتنجان مقلي<b style="font-size: 20pt;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt;"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>(<i>Betinjan Maqli</i>)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">(Makes 5 to 6 servings)</span></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><br /></span></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Eggplant slices simply fried in oil can get quite oily. To prevent them </span><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-ansi-language: DE;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">from soaking up oil like a sponge, sprinkle the slices with a little flour before frying them as this will help block most of the
pores. Our medieval ancestors used to do the same thing.</span></span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-ansi-language: DE;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1
large eggplant (about 1½ lb)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">About
¾ cup flour for coating <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Oil
for frying<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">For
assembling sandwiches:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2
tomatoes, sliced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1
garlic clove, grated<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">¼
teaspoon chili pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">¼
cup chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2
tablespoons lemon juice, or vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">½
cup drained yogurt (aka. Greek yogurt), optional <b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1. Cut off stem of eggplant, and
peel it lengthwise to give it a striped look. Cut it into 2 parts crosswise, and then
cut each part into ¼ in-thick slices lengthwise. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2. Soak pieces in salted warm
water and top with a plate to keep them submerged. Set aside for 30 minutes.
Soaking the eggplant in this way will prevent it from absorbing lots of oil
while frying. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">3. Drain eggplant pieces, and
coat them with flour on all sides. Fry
pieces in ½ in-deep oil until golden brown, turning once, about 7 minutes. Drain on a rack or in a
colander to prevent fried pieces from getting soggy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">4. Brown tomato slices in a small amount of
oil. Or use them raw. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">5. Arrange eggplant pieces on a
big platter in one layer. Arrange tomato slices on top. Sprinkle them with garlic,
chili pepper, parsley, and lemon juice or vinegar. Dot with drained yogurt if
wished.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="text-indent: 0.2in;">Serve the arranged platter as a
side dish by itself, or make into sandwiches by filling a piece of bread with
some of the layered vegetables.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GaamLISByH4CPYoT1cjs1dJd4EVENoPB7zRdygENEjiXQHLdc4HW0AWbPRwORl_izg2iKWm3w3iUjLrvlQHZEtMAYdXc1oHHj693YKeck9Q-X8DQFGcFEtlh8neWbGwjCoiqL8J4jOBt/s1600/IMG_1860+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><img border="0" height="544" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GaamLISByH4CPYoT1cjs1dJd4EVENoPB7zRdygENEjiXQHLdc4HW0AWbPRwORl_izg2iKWm3w3iUjLrvlQHZEtMAYdXc1oHHj693YKeck9Q-X8DQFGcFEtlh8neWbGwjCoiqL8J4jOBt/s640/IMG_1860+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: 14pt;">Breaded Eggplant<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">(Makes 5 to 6 servings)</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">As in the previous recipe, this
way of preparing and frying the eggplant yields crispy pieces, with the minimum
amount of oil absorbed. In the 13<sup>th</sup>-century Andalusian cookbook </span><i style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Anwa’ al-Saydala</i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> (p.145)</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">,
slices of eggplant were parboiled in salted water first, left to drain, and
then dipped in a batter composed of white flour, eggs, black pepper, coriander,
saffron, and a small amount of </span><i style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">murri</i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> (fermented sauce, similar to soy sauce); and fried </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1
large eggplant(about 1½ lb)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2
eggs, beaten<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1¼
cups breadcrumbs seasoned with ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon black
pepper, and ¼ teaspoon garlic powder (optional)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Oil
for frying<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">For
garnish: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">¼
cup parsley chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1
medium tomato, thinly sliced <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Fresh
hot chilies, or any kind of pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1. Cut off stem of eggplant, and
peel it lengthwise to give it a striped look. Cut it into 2 parts crosswise, and then
cut each part into ¼ in-thick slices lengthwise. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2. Soak pieces in salted warm
water and top with a plate to keep them submerged. Set aside for 30 minutes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">3. Drain eggplant pieces, and dip
each in beaten eggs, then coat with seasoned breadcrumbs. When both sides are
well coated, press each piece down against the crumbs in the plate with your
palm, and then turn it and press down on the other side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">4.
Fry pieces in ½ in-deep oil on high to medium-high heat until golden
brown, turning only once, about 5 minutes. Drain fried pieces on a rack or a
colander to keep them crisp.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">5.
Arrange pieces on a platter, garnished with parsley, sliced tomato, and pepper slices. Serve as a side dish or make into sandwiches, as described above. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9O4RrY6dV83Rjohc2h70XeZHpii6eVox8wZ42sRwRfE0xgv93hAQdSshJj6UWsKK4AmJlVtID4ZtGz2uxmTwsTWOv_kYWCsf_0Mprkf8AwZOGY4kyC8b_CMutLoOCU_Yw2nAA4ovruhBZ/s1600/IMG_1855+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9O4RrY6dV83Rjohc2h70XeZHpii6eVox8wZ42sRwRfE0xgv93hAQdSshJj6UWsKK4AmJlVtID4ZtGz2uxmTwsTWOv_kYWCsf_0Mprkf8AwZOGY4kyC8b_CMutLoOCU_Yw2nAA4ovruhBZ/s640/IMG_1855+%25282%2529.jpg" width="627" /></a></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-66759978886523332732015-11-11T22:07:00.001-05:002015-11-12T10:50:56.027-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000;">FEAST OF THE BIRDS</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000;">وليمة الطير</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000;">Thanksgiving Stuffed Bird, Iraqi Style</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sorry birds! It is us humans who are feasting, but you will be remembered in good health, I am sure.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyL4W_rg2mOAJIaVhbWCIGK9Oe6MweTEbegxRL4J_OFG9k6wJcIVqzw92RdmJRUdExHkb0wGhM46mWBY431pvVzVAXogC3zY5I6iWkI2JBSvRLLbRr3_ElznEXzKWm_zOn6fWOsHKujut-/s1600/stuffed+bird+iraqi+style.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyL4W_rg2mOAJIaVhbWCIGK9Oe6MweTEbegxRL4J_OFG9k6wJcIVqzw92RdmJRUdExHkb0wGhM46mWBY431pvVzVAXogC3zY5I6iWkI2JBSvRLLbRr3_ElznEXzKWm_zOn6fWOsHKujut-/s640/stuffed+bird+iraqi+style.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijaj Mahshi دجاج محشي</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Surprise your turkey this Thanksgiving and make it happy with a
delicious aromatic stuffing ‘Iraqi style.' B</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">esides the cavity, the bird is stuffed underneath the entire skin, as well. A bonus: The skin will come out scrumptiously crisp and flavorful. Worth trying! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">learnt this beautiful way of stuffing chicken from my friends in Mosul, in northern Iraq. I was invited to dinner, and there it was in the middle of the table an impressively plump bird, I thought it was a duck at first, and was quite amused to learn that it was just an ordinary chicken given the royal treatment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Later on, I discovered, so much to my surprise, that stuffing chicken between the skin and the meat is not an entirely modern technique. In the 13th-century Andalusian cookbook </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Anwa’ al-Saydala </i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">(انواع الصيدلة في الوان الاطعمة)</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">, there is a chicken recipe called</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"> A</span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">l-dajaj al-‘Abbasi</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"> الدجاج العباسي </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">(Abbasid chicken), which as the name indicates, is a loan dish from the medieval Baghdadi cuisine. The initial instruction in the recipe is to stuff the chicken between the skin and the meat, as well as the cavity (p. 23). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">More details on this method are given in the 13</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">-century Syrian cookbook</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"> </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Al-Wusla ila'l-Habeeb</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"> الوصلة الى الحبيب في وصف الطيبات والطيب </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">(by Ibn al-‘Adeem 2: 525--26). After the chicken is dipped in hot water and feathers removed, and before opening it up, the skin was separated from the meat by blowing very hard through the neck. For still undetached areas, a skewer was pushed through the neck, and the skin was carefully separated.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0U_4toMv8G5WsFf-PFizNa2ugbBq1xTYYIDJKi6ex2G5xyMX935WwgDQfVU9dMxBXIQtx1D7VzM2MvOu7bRoKQEVNtMNgxPjQ6qukGCCkwOXXMG_Td3LBOYdMd2eWf5mGBACV7-KcUcH/s1600/medieval+chicken.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0U_4toMv8G5WsFf-PFizNa2ugbBq1xTYYIDJKi6ex2G5xyMX935WwgDQfVU9dMxBXIQtx1D7VzM2MvOu7bRoKQEVNtMNgxPjQ6qukGCCkwOXXMG_Td3LBOYdMd2eWf5mGBACV7-KcUcH/s640/medieval+chicken.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abbasid chicken, detail from 'Aja'ib al-Makhluqat (13th-century), F 1954.101, Smithsonian Institution </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here is the recipe. Amounts are for a small turkey or a large plump
chicken: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">Mixture
for rubbing the bird:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ cup vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 tablespoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2 tablespoons lemon juice<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 teaspoon crushed
coriander seeds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: ES-TRAD; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ teaspoon cinnamon<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ teaspoon nutmeg<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">For the
stuffing:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2 tablespoons oil <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 onion, finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2 cloves garlic, grated<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ teaspoon turmeric<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ cup each of frozen peas, diced carrots, and chopped mushrooms<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 cup diced potatoes browned in 1 tablespoon oil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ cup raisins<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ cup toasted slivered almonds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2 teaspoons <i><a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/iraqi_ingredients" target="_blank">baharat</a></i></span><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/iraqi_ingredients" target="_blank"> </a></span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">(use link for recipe), or garam masala<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">1 teaspoon cardamom<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ teaspoon of each cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, and chili pepper (or
more chili)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2 cups uncooked rice <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">½ cup yogurt, for coating the bird<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">Preheat oven 425°F<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg3rwal2uN3yyJb5O-J2_ZS2zTlWN6tRG8aepMu234G3s0VvC7MFHLz6uZvVivfOwqc3P4dbu40Lu7dcbKzYs8Fo_wxZKloXQhDivaWGwzyeAcozzluo7I488BQ-LxQWimNxFdkz-xiKQ/s1600/chicken+before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg3rwal2uN3yyJb5O-J2_ZS2zTlWN6tRG8aepMu234G3s0VvC7MFHLz6uZvVivfOwqc3P4dbu40Lu7dcbKzYs8Fo_wxZKloXQhDivaWGwzyeAcozzluo7I488BQ-LxQWimNxFdkz-xiKQ/s640/chicken+before.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chicken before stuffing</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">1. </span><b style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">To prepare the bird</b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wash it and rub it with vinegar and salt
inside and out and let it stand for 30 minutes. Drain and dry. Then rub it with
lemon juice. Mix the spices and rub them onto the bird inside and out, and then
place it, bottom down, in a colander fitted on a bowl, at room temperature,
until ready for stuffing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">2. In a large skillet, saute onion in the oil until transparent,
about 5 minutes. Add garlic and turmeric in the last minute. Add peas, carrots,
and mushrooms. Pour in about ¾ cup hot water and simmer on medium heat about 10
minutes, or until liquid evaporates. Mix in browned potatoes, raisins, almonds, garam masala (<i>baharat</i>), salt, cardamom, cinnamon,
ginger, black pepper, and chili pepper.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">3. Cook plain white rice until just done, the grains should still
be firm and separated. Gently fold it with the vegetable mixture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">3. </span><b style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">To stuff the bird</b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hold the bird with one hand and with the fingers of the other,
starting with the neck part, separate skin from flesh, going down slowly all
the way to the thighs, taking care not to pierce the skin with your nails. This
will create a pocket to hold the stuffing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pat the cavities dry with white paper towels and fill the regular belly cavity very well with the stuffing (the rice is already cooked and would not expand). Sew the cavity closed. Then fill the pocket you have created with as much filling as it can hold, pushing the filling down to the thighs, the breast area, the wings, and the back. Sew the neck opening closed to prevent filling from coming out. Discard any filling that came into contact with the uncooked bird while filling it.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcvLX1ww6oGyxJPt7FBODMfwqSnVr-DkF6pPfeh-MPb7Q2Ma1VoLzTxD1xfekG7xH0T6gEOaTyxoWd9q9uP_hAiSCJL3rlJmpCMTKBfDhuylBRiGf3Wq3ckHsPcHcHNBtgkFZZcdAtvg7/s1600/stuffed+bird+iraqi+style.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcvLX1ww6oGyxJPt7FBODMfwqSnVr-DkF6pPfeh-MPb7Q2Ma1VoLzTxD1xfekG7xH0T6gEOaTyxoWd9q9uP_hAiSCJL3rlJmpCMTKBfDhuylBRiGf3Wq3ckHsPcHcHNBtgkFZZcdAtvg7/s320/stuffed+bird+iraqi+style.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">Place the prepared bird on a greased
broiler pan and coat it with yogurt. Bake in the preheated oven for the first
15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F,
and continue baking (allow 30 minutes for each pound). While bird is roasting,
baste it occasionally with the dripping juices until it is nicely browned. Let
it rest for about 15 minutes before carving. Remove threads and serve on a
platter surrounded with any remaining stuffing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Enjoy!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtP1c2S3XF1C4lz3m-WJSE3eDdRM1x0yVrA7iEKVICRDhrFrSrAlQCgGR2U8Wh8dkbbs6Qw3twn-yAh25c_jIOe3dIQIGyEgJWthofgOWLyg8evchlp0V1pE4X6kO1RqpjA1FHVBp8uOxU/s1600/bird+sketch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtP1c2S3XF1C4lz3m-WJSE3eDdRM1x0yVrA7iEKVICRDhrFrSrAlQCgGR2U8Wh8dkbbs6Qw3twn-yAh25c_jIOe3dIQIGyEgJWthofgOWLyg8evchlp0V1pE4X6kO1RqpjA1FHVBp8uOxU/s320/bird+sketch.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-6799733063600181522015-07-26T19:56:00.004-04:002015-07-27T15:08:16.638-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">Aromatic Spicy Fish Dish with </span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">Yellow Rice and Raisins </span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><i>Mtabbaq Simack </i></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">مطبّك سمج </span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's 'real food' time!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In just 30 minutes, you can have a feast, one that is truly delicious, satisfying and healthy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmW1RtNnsRZ4RRP8xDDOpJmHOyRl7B0hz4i6Hcz5r-pe5EB5Z1Z12JoFoJbpB_NTahkQDY0QLbKMvlyNFpe-DC6XlLSLwNAj9DZ_wGeYUbG7arkNMGKIZcoRMkeqyJPkegvfXVODoIKik/s1600/broiled+fish+with+yellow+rice+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmW1RtNnsRZ4RRP8xDDOpJmHOyRl7B0hz4i6Hcz5r-pe5EB5Z1Z12JoFoJbpB_NTahkQDY0QLbKMvlyNFpe-DC6XlLSLwNAj9DZ_wGeYUbG7arkNMGKIZcoRMkeqyJPkegvfXVODoIKik/s1600/broiled+fish+with+yellow+rice+(2).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Traditionally, the fish is layered with the rice and raisin mix, and hence the name <i>mtabbag simach</i> (layered fish dish). I make it simpler by just arranging the fish pieces and the raisins on the rice itself. To make it lighter, I broil the fish instead of frying it.Start by cooking the rice, and in the meantime prepare the raisin mix. Ten minutes before serving the dish, start broiling the fish, and there you have it! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH2YWueImQ2-5H5s-xLUfbfpYQBzVx6lBxiUBSdCNbZl8OxobSYj1ZVge5-vH7VTX2USsnI8j1M-TbqKMALgprmvfYf-anGU4ntxXwJoaQMaTfjCTQyHNdC0MvkXOtvOyueYEnO44v8PQ/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH2YWueImQ2-5H5s-xLUfbfpYQBzVx6lBxiUBSdCNbZl8OxobSYj1ZVge5-vH7VTX2USsnI8j1M-TbqKMALgprmvfYf-anGU4ntxXwJoaQMaTfjCTQyHNdC0MvkXOtvOyueYEnO44v8PQ/s320/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thewikibible.pbworks.com/w/page/22174694/Fishing%20in%20the%20Bible%20and%20the%20Ancient%20Near%20East" target="_blank">Fisherman</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A Bit of History:</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">During the Sumerian times in ancient Iraq, fish was
an important source of food, and fishing was considered a respectable
profession. In their records,
there were freshwater fishermen and saltwater fishermen. Different methods for
catching fish were mentioned, such as using harpoons, nets, and wires. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZg2KcaWWHy-vFcA_8YKJJni0aU3Ml5rT50fWdG8ndLGSQ3p86Z3DiEusg0mBrGc5otfJz_855xUv6v1p6RXcRjwD9R25gmT1RNFuh1xIBohIQcOh3Zc9ioubDRIoSiohip_AU_4nDm0S/s1600/ur+fish+ornament.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZg2KcaWWHy-vFcA_8YKJJni0aU3Ml5rT50fWdG8ndLGSQ3p86Z3DiEusg0mBrGc5otfJz_855xUv6v1p6RXcRjwD9R25gmT1RNFuh1xIBohIQcOh3Zc9ioubDRIoSiohip_AU_4nDm0S/s200/ur+fish+ornament.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gold lapis lazuli <a href="http://sumerianshakespeare.com/117701/118101.html" target="_blank">fish</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: justify;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Fish was consumed fresh and smoked. The roes were preserved separately and eaten as a delicacy. They were the caviar of the Sumerians. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">From fish they made the fermented sauce 'siqqu' for both kitchen and table use, similar to the oriental fish sauce.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the third millennium BC, full use was made of fish. It was salted and dried, a method that is still in use nowadays in the marshes of the south. The marsh dwellers nowadays call it gbab (apparently derived from Arabic verb qabba ‘dry out’). They de-salt it and cook it with rice, in a dish they call masmouta.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhseCcQ6AVm1gXla5uESEvf1gFtSFtzI6S37MtZHwB14GSCMaPF1IWjmDkPP5EDzzSnLfBwrxHPc4vgfP02gG-BXF3LjFBJOOm0Oq9y5-B9-a7vvBybA5anuF9Pc98IldPTExzFpLCClkZ/s1600/FishermanUrStandardAdapa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhseCcQ6AVm1gXla5uESEvf1gFtSFtzI6S37MtZHwB14GSCMaPF1IWjmDkPP5EDzzSnLfBwrxHPc4vgfP02gG-BXF3LjFBJOOm0Oq9y5-B9-a7vvBybA5anuF9Pc98IldPTExzFpLCClkZ/s320/FishermanUrStandardAdapa.jpg" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from the <a href="http://www.bibleorigins.net/AdapaAdamPicturesFishmen.html" target="_blank">Standard of Ur</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Existing ancient Sumerian artifacts show fishermen carrying big fishes, as in this detail from the Standard of Ur, where the fishes are threaded through their gills. interestingly, Iraqi fishermen today still carry fish in a similar manner. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Allusions to fish were made
in the Sumerian hymns and incantations. A hymn in praise of the goddess Ishtar
of Uruk associates the goddess with fish. It joyfully credits her for prosperity and plenitude. Thanks to her the channels
were filled with fish. Another hymn
describes a festival in honor of Ishtar: the table was laden with butter, milk,
dates, cheese, and seven fishes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Interestingly, during the second half
of the reign of Hammurabi (second millennium BC), mention of fish noticeably decreased in texts, and the word ‘fishermen’ was synonymous with ‘lawless
people.’ One of the reasons could be that people escaping justice at the time
used to find refuge in the southern marshes, the homeland of fishermen. This
was by no means an indication that people stopped consuming fish. The Greek historian Herodotus (d. 425 BC),
for instance, in the account of his visit to Babylon (I: 200) mentions that
there were tribes in Babylonia who ate nothing but fish.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALyKDD8Nhnedc1v3pWmx7OpW2sfuVsgKWJZKb4-dP5sRL8PO8qjBLpRmKPqiwkA7m2TDvIprVe9w-lTPJ6dra8kQ0r81JLUnBA5Uu05CQCvTxHbTumr6zlhvNGkR9EMMqltL5rd3JJJV7/s1600/4f6d825e8be50befe88d1fd1a3e67bfe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALyKDD8Nhnedc1v3pWmx7OpW2sfuVsgKWJZKb4-dP5sRL8PO8qjBLpRmKPqiwkA7m2TDvIprVe9w-lTPJ6dra8kQ0r81JLUnBA5Uu05CQCvTxHbTumr6zlhvNGkR9EMMqltL5rd3JJJV7/s640/4f6d825e8be50befe88d1fd1a3e67bfe.jpg" width="521" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sumerian miniature<a href="http://educators.mfa.org/ancient/miniature-fish-fountain-59915" target="_blank"> fish fountain</a> </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fish from the river Tigris was highly valued by the medieval Baghdadis because they believed that the best fish came from running cold-water sources, with stony riverbeds. Euphrates followed in excellence. Top quality fishes were <i>shabbout</i> (Barbus grypus) of the carp family. Al-Biruni (d. 1048) says its name in Syriac is <i>shabbuta</i> شبّوطا and <i>shibuta </i>شيبوطا (Kitab-al-Saydana 396). Next in excellence comes bunni (Barbus sharpeyi), and <i>zajr </i>(anthopeterus), a large fish with small scales, now called <i>dhikar</i>. All these varieties are still swimming in the Tigris and Euphrates, albeit in much smaller numbers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Medieval Verses on Fish by Kushajim</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">أبيات في السمك لكشاجم</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are verses on fish composed by the famous Abbasid gourmet poet Kushajim (d. c. 961), as depicted in al-Warraq’s 10th-century cookbook (<i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i>, Chapter 11, my translation in <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Nawal-Nasrallah/dp/9004188118/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1437949256&sr=1-3&keywords=nawal+nasrallah" target="_blank">Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens</a></i>, pp. 113-14):</span><br />
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يا ربّ نهر متأق ملآن جم المدود مغمر معان</div>
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من كل مختار من الحيتان الزجر والشبّوط والبنان</div>
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كالطلع مجنيا من الجنان أو كقدود أذرع الغواني </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> What a glorious river, over-brimming, bountiful, submerging, sweet, and flowing<br /> Teeming with the choicest fish, <i>zajr, shabbut,</i> and <i>bunni</i>,<br /> Like fresh dates of orchards or lusciously contoured arms of beauties.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The preferred medieval method for cooking the fish was frying. They believed it was easier on the digestion, and helped alleviate its harmful effects. Fried fish was prepared by sprinkling it with flour and salt and frying it in sesame oil. Sour based sauces and dips called sibagh صباغ were always offered with fish dishes to further aid the digestion. Vinegar was the basic ingredient used in most of these sauces to which might be added garlic, onion, mint, parsley, mustard, caraway, thyme, raisins, walnuts, almonds coriander, pomegranate seeds, or sumac.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">A specialty of the Abbasid Prince
Ibrahim bin al-Mahdi (d. 839), half brother of Harun al-Rasheed, was to put a huge live fish in a basin filled with juice of
red grapes and leave it there until it drinks as much as possible of the juice.
The fish was then cleaned and roasted, and served with sauce (</span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">sibagh</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">) made with wine vinegar, parsley, mint, and caraway.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Fish
tongues were a treat. Hundreds of them would be cooked as </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">qarees</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"> (fish
aspic). Another recipe prides itself on baking a fish, which results in a roasted head,
poached middle, and fried tail.
The recipe ends thus: For each part, prepare a sauce that goes
with it, so that nobody would suspect that the whole fish was actually cooked
as one piece, God willing
(al-Warraq, Chapter 33).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nowadays, more or less, the same types of fish still swim in the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, mainly <i>shabbout</i>,<i> bunni </i>and <i>gittan</i> (Barbus xanthopterus). </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlm2zijmM-PWdV_lQ8EYHNJsDTS10Y-n1-0odMvO_8hOyOGEqjI-7GpCdGfvBaLZj0VcRyphsXEa9YavOuaI3vTllCc7XXRxM-cVNLyw5KTEfBvIqNHo3EGua-cpT9wzPUsINmKZuIXL3/s1600/woman+selling+fish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlm2zijmM-PWdV_lQ8EYHNJsDTS10Y-n1-0odMvO_8hOyOGEqjI-7GpCdGfvBaLZj0VcRyphsXEa9YavOuaI3vTllCc7XXRxM-cVNLyw5KTEfBvIqNHo3EGua-cpT9wzPUsINmKZuIXL3/s640/woman+selling+fish.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iraqi woman <a href="http://forums.fatakat.com/thread1734180-4" target="_blank">selling fish</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzLne8tUNf4pPyzW9vsWBrhIR0WMCFTQjDTlt5X9CNYW3LwDWNVgNqmAj25I-mlcJlOvPE_Sk7Z36uPAIFSbORYXuKU3MqBU2c-NLgPemu3CnjoRAtePou6DowdF5YuTJWjBMdBAPXhgM/s1600/bunni+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzLne8tUNf4pPyzW9vsWBrhIR0WMCFTQjDTlt5X9CNYW3LwDWNVgNqmAj25I-mlcJlOvPE_Sk7Z36uPAIFSbORYXuKU3MqBU2c-NLgPemu3CnjoRAtePou6DowdF5YuTJWjBMdBAPXhgM/s640/bunni+2.jpg" width="608" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.dorar-aliraq.net/threads/208682-%D8%B3%D9%85%D9%83-%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%A8%D9%86%D9%8A-%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%B9%D8%B1%D8%A7%D9%82%D9%8A-%D9%85%D9%87%D9%86%D8%AF%D8%B3-%D8%B9%D9%85%D8%A7%D8%B1-%D8%A7%D9%84%D9%85%D9%83%D8%AA%D9%88%D8%A8" target="_blank">Bunni fish</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is the huge ‘monster of Tigris,’ the <i>bizz</i> (Barbus esotinus), which is sometimes called ‘Tobias’ fish’ in English. It is usually sold in pieces.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhUu2VY2wAYNTnAt7x3-r6rUpKSSI3sOUa_cJFeVHsbO4ll8YFkfDbtJT9TvEVcxiCGCitYLzmIRWFHoTqXNudHh2SVkZ9UQFZhNR2mMUpiOIIuh9-pSeUSMBJTGZFds-zQDTpx5X3wqVl/s1600/bizz+fish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhUu2VY2wAYNTnAt7x3-r6rUpKSSI3sOUa_cJFeVHsbO4ll8YFkfDbtJT9TvEVcxiCGCitYLzmIRWFHoTqXNudHh2SVkZ9UQFZhNR2mMUpiOIIuh9-pSeUSMBJTGZFds-zQDTpx5X3wqVl/s640/bizz+fish.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://forums.fatakat.com/thread1734180-4" target="_blank">Bizz fish</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These are all delicious white-flesh river fishes, except for one thing: their tiny thorny bones. One has to be very careful eating them, that is why they are better eaten with the fingers rather than utensils. This seems to have been a concern since ancient times. Here is an ancient Sumerian proverb, which incidentally sheds light on this issue: </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> My husband heaps up (grain) for me,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> my son metes it out for me--<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> Would that my darling husband would pick the bones from the fish (for me).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">The speaker is a woman who had it all, but still pines for the times when her husband used to do those personal, caring, little things for her like picking the fish bones for her before eating it. Nowadays, such a woman might win our sympathy, but the Sumerians meant this to be a sarcastic comment on unreasonable selfishness.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQZuTb0Nukbp3y7oGWf9h19RfeFOh8JycP7QzI1lZ-bQg5hVW-UB21uo4Z_8jlQeiPv-855RRbgl0kRViBHNYg-itKcpHo6D1b-eLHnu7T7uP-svXaqBhFg35-8rkBaREMBJ6du_NKDvx/s1600/masgouf+image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQZuTb0Nukbp3y7oGWf9h19RfeFOh8JycP7QzI1lZ-bQg5hVW-UB21uo4Z_8jlQeiPv-855RRbgl0kRViBHNYg-itKcpHo6D1b-eLHnu7T7uP-svXaqBhFg35-8rkBaREMBJ6du_NKDvx/s640/masgouf+image.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=%D8%A7%D9%84%D9%85%D8%B3%D9%83%D9%88%D9%81+%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%B9%D8%B1%D8%A7%D9%82%D9%8A&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCwQ7AlqFQoTCMv6-Y_G9sYCFUluPgodug4N3Q&biw=1600&bih=775#imgrc=Wazyq2ZVODr0aM%3A" target="_blank"><i>Masgouf</i></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the most popular ways for preparing fish in Baghdad is by grilling it as <i>masgouf</i>, a method, which in all probability goes back to the times of ancient Mesopotamia. It is usually prepared by professional fishermen along the bank of the river Tigris.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When prepared at home,fish is traditionally served fried, stewed, and baked in the domed clay oven <i>tannour </i>or the oven, seasoned with tamarind or pomegranate molasses, and served with bread and/or rice (plain white, yellow, or brown with cinnamon). However, yellow rice is the most popular, it looks pretty, quite aromatic, and what's more, it is easier to see the tiny white bones with it. I prefer to cook this dish with the boneless salmon (Heaven!), but feel free to substitute with whatever fish you fancy. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Here is how to cook it:</b></span> (Makes 6 servings)</span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">For the rice: </span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 tablespoons oil (such as canola)</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ teaspoon turmeric <br />2 cups rice, if aged variety is used, such as basmati, it needs to be washed and soaked for at least 30 minutes, and then drained and used <br />3½ cups water<br />1½ teaspoons salt<br />4 cardamoms pods, keep whole<br />1 cinnamon, 1-inch stick</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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<b>For the raisin mix: </b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 medium onion, chopped<br />1½ teaspoons curry powder<br />2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced<br />¾ cup raisins<br />1 teaspoon crushed <i>noomi Basra </i>(<a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/iraqi_ingredients">dried lime</a>)<br />1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed<br />¾ teaspoon salt<br />¼ teaspoon black pepper<br />½ cup chopped parsley<br />2 tablespoons hot water</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">For the fish:</span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 pounds salmon, skinless boneless fillet, cut into 6 strips<br />1 tablespoon honey<br />1 tablespoon yellow mustard</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1.<b>To make the rice</b>: In a medium heavy pot (preferably non-stick), put all the rice ingredients, and let them boil, covered, for 7 to 10 minutes on high heat, until all visible moisture evaporates. Reduce heat to low and let it simmer for 20 minutes. Fold rice gently 2 to 3 times while simmering to allow it to fluff.<br /><br />2. <b>To prepare the raisin mix</b>: In a medium skillet, sauté onion in oil until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in turmeric and curry powder in the last 30 seconds. Add the rest of the raisin-mix ingredients, and stir and cook for about five minutes. Keep warm. <br /><br /> 3.<b>Now the fish</b>: turn on heat of the broiler. Line a shallow baking pan with aluminum foil, and drizzle it with half tablespoon of oil. Arrange the fish pieces on the pan leaving space between pieces. Brush them with half the mustard and half the honey, drizzle with the remaining oil, and sprinkle with salt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Broil the fish for 5 minutes, then turn over the pieces, brush them with the remaining mustard and honey, and let them cook until surface is crisp and golden, about 5 minutes, or until flesh is flaky when poked with a fork. Immediately, spread the rice in a big platter, arrange the fish pieces on the rice, and spread the raisin-mix between and around the fish pieces.</span><br />
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-28189163791363705572015-05-25T17:35:00.002-04:002019-01-11T05:25:22.667-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><i>Himmas Kassa</i>: The Mother of all <i>Hummus</i></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">The Oldest Documented Recipes for <i>Hummus</i></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"> حمّص كسا</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"> وصفات عربية قديمة للحمّص بطحينة</span><span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><b> </b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A fourteenth-century recipe for </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Himmas Kassa</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (mashed/pounded chickpeas); for source, see caption below:</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Recipe from 14th-century <i>Kitab Wasf al-At'ima al-Mu'tada</i> (augmented version of al-Baghdadi's 13th-century <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i>, p. 113; Manuscript copy in Cairo: Dar al-Kutub al-Qawmiyya, no. Taimur Sina'a 11, originally copied from 14th-century MS now in Topkapi Saray Humayuni.</span></td></tr>
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<b style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Translation of the Recipe:</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Take chickpeas and after they boil, pound them finely with vinegar, olive oil, <i>tahini</i> (sesame paste), black pepper, <i>atraf teeb</i> (spice blend), mint, parsley, and dried thyme. Add [and continue pounding] shelled walnut, hazelnut, almond, and pistachio, as well as Ceylon cinnamon, toasted caraway seeds, coriander seeds, salt, lemon preserved in salt, and olives. Stir all to blend, and them spread [on a plate] and set aside overnight, and eat it. It will be wonderful, God willing.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This recipe and several variations on it occur in other cookbooks belonging to the same period. The following <i>Himmas Kassa </i>is from 13th-century Syrian cookbook <i>Al-wusla ila'l-Habeed fi Wasf al-Tayyibat wa'l-Teeb</i> (Winning the Beloved's Heart with Delectable Dishes and Perfumes) by famous historian Ibn al-'Adeem of Aleppo (d. 1262) , pp. 2:718-19. </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The recipe is more or less similar to the one quoted earlier, albeit with more details, especially important are the ones provided at the end of the recipe: After the <i>hummus </i>is spread, the recipe mentions that it should be drizzled with a lot of olive oil, with chopped parsley (<i>baqdunis</i>), sprinkled on it, along with chopped pistachio, cinnamon and crushed rose buds. Interestingly, the recipe suggests that the dish will look quite nice if some whole boiled chickpeas are also put on the top. Such details would surely make it look so much similar to the way <i>hummus </i>is traditionally garnished in our time, but of course minus the chili pepper, which came later to the region.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQyQL_0lXxuxdxtF2L6lEUJhoQDnHxxbjeJCKG8tGrIcAo7gsmbfbnJsxsCZiQcUrrhp28LgSDLBR43HoDCO4lTkRMH5Kz8DgtDslkaEutOuFmOnQa-2oV_wbECHWHzdoz1jbCQaDNZ61m/s1600/hummus+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQyQL_0lXxuxdxtF2L6lEUJhoQDnHxxbjeJCKG8tGrIcAo7gsmbfbnJsxsCZiQcUrrhp28LgSDLBR43HoDCO4lTkRMH5Kz8DgtDslkaEutOuFmOnQa-2oV_wbECHWHzdoz1jbCQaDNZ61m/s640/hummus+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">An important detail also tucked at the end of the recipe is about the dip's consistency: it has to hold its shape when picked up with a piece of bread. Like today, this food was offered as an appetizer: a cold dish -- a dip with bread -- to be consumed before the main hot dishes. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eleven recipes are given, including one similar to the recipe quoted above, in the 14th-century anonymous Egyptian cookbook </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://egyptianmedievalcookbook.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Kanz al-Fawa'id fi Tanwi' al-Mawa'id</a></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (T<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/9004347291/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i1" target="_blank">reasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table</a>). Here is one of them:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The recipe this time does not use nuts, but it is also garnished the same as the one above it: It is spread in a shallow bowl, and sprinkled with black olives, crushed toasted hazelnut, a bit of spices, rue, and mint.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A modernized recipe for making medieval <i>himmas kassa</i>:</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(Makes 4 servings)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 cup boiled chickpeas</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2 tablespoons tahini, stirred with water and wine vinegar, 2
tablespoons of each<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">¼ cup finely ground walnut, stirred with 2 tablespoons lemon
juice, and 1 teaspoon wine vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ cup chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">¼ cup chopped mint<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3 tablespoons olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">¼ teaspoon of each of caraway, coriander, black pepper,
ginger, and cinnamon, all crushed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ teaspoon salt <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A quarter of a <a href="http://egyptianmedievalcookbook.wordpress.com/2017/09/24/laymun-mali%E1%B8%A5-%D9%84%D9%8A%D9%85%D9%88%D9%86-%D9%85%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%AD-lemon-preserved-in-salt-kanz-recipe-609/" target="_blank">salted lemon</a>, cut into small pieces<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For garnish: olive oil, chopped pistachio, chopped parsley,
cinnamon, and rose petals (optional) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">…………………………………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1. Put all the ingredients, except for the salted lemon, in a
food processor, and pulse the mix until it looks smooth. The mix should look
green. Add more of the herbs if needed. The consistency of the mix should be thick
enough to pick up with a piece of bread. Add a bit more lemon juice if needed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2. Fold in the chopped salted lemon, and use. To serve a dish,
spread the condiment on a plate, drizzle a generous amount of olive oil all
over its face, garnish it with chopped parsley, and give it a light sprinkle of
cinnamon and crushed rose petals if used. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately, after the 14th century, there was a long period of silence, until we approach the second half of the 19th century. A </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lebanese cookbook entitled </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kitab Tadhkirat al-Khwateen wa Ustadh al-Tabbakheen</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (The Mater Chef's Culinary Memento for Housewives) by Khaleel Sarkees (1885) contains a recipe called </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hummus Mutabbal bi'l Zait: </i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The recipe uses the basic ingredients that make up our traditional dip <i>Hummus bi'Taheena: chickpeas</i>, garlic, lemon juice, and tahini. The recipe specifies that it should not be runny in consistency, and that after it is spread on a plate it is sprinkled with sweet-tasting olive oil and finely chopped chervil/parsley. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The name itself, </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Hummus Mutabbal</i></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (حمص متبل), might be translated as spiced chickpeas, but since the recipe does not use any spices, I am more inclined to interpret </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">mutabbal </i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">as 'ground', for indeed this is the original meaning of the Arabic word t-b-l (تبّل) 'to crush, to grind.' </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The chickpeas are always pounded or mashed to make this particular dish. Besides, ground spice/spices are usually called tabil/ tawabil; and quite likely this could be the reason why <i>tabboula</i>/<i>tabbouli</i> was called so in the first place, since <i>tabboula</i> is not <i>tabboula </i>if it is not chopped finely. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Indeed, the word can be traced all the way back to the ancient Mesopotamian times, when 'tabilu' meant 'ground' in the Akkadian language (Jean Bottero, </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Oldest Cuisine in the World</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, p. 57).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the Levant today, some cooks still call this appetizer by the name <i>mutabbal hummus</i>, and its 'cousin' made with eggplant, <i>mutabbal badhinjan</i>, instead of <i>baba ghannouj</i>, which confirm my hunch that <i>mutabbal</i> basically designates 'mashing and pounding'. </span></div>
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A <i>Hummus bi Tahina</i> Recipe, with a Bit of History:</h3>
They dug a pit in the sunlight.<br />
Then Gilgamesh went up on the mountain.<br />
He poured out his chickpeas into the pit.<br />
"Oh, Mountain, grant (me) a dream…"<br />
(<i>Epic of Gilgamish</i>, quoted in Martin Levey, <i>Chemistry and Chemical Technology in Ancient Mesopotamia</i>, p.50)<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Both sesame (Akkadian 'samsamu') and chickpeas (Akkadian 'amusu') were valued field cash products, grown in abundance in the entire ancient Fertile Crescent region. Sesame oil has always been an essential food item in their diet until recently. As for chickpeas, their nutritious value has always been acknowledged, as in the E</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">pic of Gilgamesh, where it was chosen as one of the
victuals he carried with him on his journeys.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the medieval times, other
potentialities were attributed to chickpeas such as aphrodisiac ones. It was believed
to possess the three essential elements required to achieve this Viagra-effect.
Food has to be hot in nature, it has to be nutritious and moist enough to
increase sperm, and it has to have the power to generate enough wind to fill
and stiffen the veins of the ‘equipment,’ as explained in the medieval Arabic books on dietetics and botany.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPp61jNBGcWx25PTw5uK6SeCQXeq3DqKJlATMBd5iOxivhp6J-KnqHxRtFpIzzzAnrjW1F0YP6wu_X-So9cpRPSQ9mValsPD1dOlJBDGt_l8BUpv7Cekn4D0ksHe79tK2NH5QEAKuT_yif/s1600/lablabi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPp61jNBGcWx25PTw5uK6SeCQXeq3DqKJlATMBd5iOxivhp6J-KnqHxRtFpIzzzAnrjW1F0YP6wu_X-So9cpRPSQ9mValsPD1dOlJBDGt_l8BUpv7Cekn4D0ksHe79tK2NH5QEAKuT_yif/s640/lablabi.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: left;">Chickpeas simmered to tenderness, </span><i style="text-align: left;">lablabi. </i><span style="text-align: left;">T</span><span style="text-align: left;">his is a very traditional snack food in Iraq, simple, basic, and very ancient, no doubt. As for tuning it into a dip by combining it with <i>tahini </i>(<i>rashi</i>, in the Iraqi dialect, derived from classical Arabic <i>rahshi</i>, all mean 'crushed'), the written documents can only take us as far back as the 13th century, but dishes like hummus must have been prepared much earlier than that, so that by medieval times it was already a staple with a lot of variations.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzMuAesYID-vl-ct7x6j8Ac34NEoQFtut_EOCvq3cShWh_Lj3AB0lO3rJebwfVpLAm4jQYYPlm7UT_fFWNmFKdiBzvEj-swVFM7d4_tyL3Bb_FNeeG3aozEXFK3oCUqG-naiNe7LojLyf/s1600/hummus+recipes+from+baghdad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzMuAesYID-vl-ct7x6j8Ac34NEoQFtut_EOCvq3cShWh_Lj3AB0lO3rJebwfVpLAm4jQYYPlm7UT_fFWNmFKdiBzvEj-swVFM7d4_tyL3Bb_FNeeG3aozEXFK3oCUqG-naiNe7LojLyf/s640/hummus+recipes+from+baghdad.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The above recipe from the first cookbook in the history of modern Iraq <a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2012/11/recipes-from-baghdad-thefirst-cookbook.html" target="_blank"><i>Recipes from Baghdad</i></a>, 1946, is a basic hummus recipe for an appetizer, which seems to have already become the hallmark of the mainstream Middle Eastern-Arab cuisine. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Now to my recipe:</b> Although <i>hummus</i>, fresh or canned, is readily available in stores, homemade
variety is definitely tastier and cheaper. You may use whole chickpeas, which
you soak and cook yourself. However, canned chickpeas can be very handy if you
want to make <i>hummus</i> in just five
minutes. For a smoother texture, use dried yellow split chickpeas (dried split
peas will give similar taste, and they do not need to be soaked overnight).</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1½
cups (12 oz) chickpeas, soaked overnight (will make about 3 cups mashed chickpeas); or
two 15.5-oz cans of chickpeas,
drained and washed<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2
cloves garlic, grated<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1
teaspoon ground cumin, optional <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½
cup fresh lemon juice <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1
teaspoon salt, less if using canned chickpeas<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2
tablespoons olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½
to ¾ cup <i>tahini</i> <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For
garnish: olive oil, olives, chopped parsley, chili powder, sliced tomato, 1
tablespoon whole cooked chickpeas (optional)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1. Boil the chickpeas until tender, and then drain them, but reserve some of the liquid.. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2. Put cooled down chickpeas or
canned ones in a blender or food processor, and purée for a minute or two.
If canned chickpeas look rather dry, add about ¼ cup water. Then add garlic, cumin if used, lemon juice, salt, and olive oil. Add <i>tahini</i>, and blend for a minute or two until mixture looks smooth,
lighter in color, and of spreading consistency. If it looks rather dry, add a
small amount of the reserved liquid or just plain cold water. Check for salt
and lemon juice. Refrigerate at least one hour before serving.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3.
</span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remedies for not so perfect <i>hummus</i></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">*If
it is a little thick and heavy in texture, add some cold water or reserved
chickpeas liquid, and adjust seasoning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">*If
the consistency is good but it still needs more tartness, use a little of unsweetened lemonade powder. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">*If
the taste of chickpeas still overpowers, add a little more <i>tahini</i>, until you get a balanced taste. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-6977991682785769342015-04-22T08:28:00.000-04:002015-04-23T10:18:10.732-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">Sparrows' Heads in </span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">Rummaniyya b'ras il-'Asfour</span></i></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">رمانية براس العصفور</span></h2>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Typical Iraqi spicy and aromatic small meatballs
called </span><i style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">ras il-'asfour</i><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> (sparrows' heads), simmered in delectable
pomegranate sauce.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-V5GpEslag2XgKbQqeYRPJsC64Ocjbb70ol9Q9z4W6Ug_yq8Gg4pm3Q8_-5vJjj9xtssJGKcMm4uc-BIG0R4Q5hdS6baqZfgyB6WPKQ24Sibroie7tQ0NLfT_b4O5K3LXWlzDKHOmAOE/s1600/020+fasanjoon+2+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-V5GpEslag2XgKbQqeYRPJsC64Ocjbb70ol9Q9z4W6Ug_yq8Gg4pm3Q8_-5vJjj9xtssJGKcMm4uc-BIG0R4Q5hdS6baqZfgyB6WPKQ24Sibroie7tQ0NLfT_b4O5K3LXWlzDKHOmAOE/s1600/020+fasanjoon+2+(2).jpg" height="334" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nowadays in Iraq and Iran, similar dishes are more generally known by the Iranian name <i>fasanjoun</i> (فسنجون). Quite likely, the dish in Iran was originally named after Fisinjan, a Persian town, but this does not mean that it was an exclusively Iranian invention. Aside from the name, the dish itself -- meat of some sort simmered in sweet and sour pomegranate sauce and thickened with crushed nuts -- was a well established way of cooking in the entire medieval Islamic world. It was known as <i>rummaniyya</i>, after the fruit <i>rumman </i>(pomegranate), and we are fortunate to have a variety of such recipes, which were included in the extant medieval Arabic Baghdadi and Egyptian cookbooks.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
Here is one of the recipes I found in the anonymous 14th-century cookbook <i>Kanz al-Fawa'id </i>(recipe no. 10, p. 15), which is also included in one of the copies of al-Baghdadi's 13th-century <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i> (British Library Manuscript, fol. 16 r, see image below):</span><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Rummāniyya
Mukhaththara </span></i><b>(thickened pomegranate stew):</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cut
pieces of meat are added to the pot with water. When the pot comes to a boil,
the scum is removed, and meatballs of pounded meat, made as small as hazelnuts,
are added. Use a small amount of liquid in the pot, so that when it is all done
nothing remains but a little bit of a nice rich sauce.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next, sour pomegranate juice is balanced with rose petal jam made with sugar, and is
added to the pot along with some mint leaves. Pistachio is pounded to thicken
the stew, a bit of saffron is added for color, and all the spices used in aṭraf al-teeb [medieval spice blend].The pot is
sprinkled with some rosewater and saffron, and then it is taken away from the fire.</span></div>
</blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGmj46pNYqTj71Oumz-eigLLG7BDuzMrP5O2tNOeN1KwGx5JfqpuvLbK7ntLt_F-3HVw23PiIxMQNxitIUtgP_nHGArxkLJlwwk4oWMIXeDXDQ_fzV8jXW5OCXWCdww9b8kYmE-51-qeR/s1600/Image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGmj46pNYqTj71Oumz-eigLLG7BDuzMrP5O2tNOeN1KwGx5JfqpuvLbK7ntLt_F-3HVw23PiIxMQNxitIUtgP_nHGArxkLJlwwk4oWMIXeDXDQ_fzV8jXW5OCXWCdww9b8kYmE-51-qeR/s1600/Image.jpg" height="640" width="344" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fol. 16 r of BL MS of al-Baghdadi's 13th-century cookbook </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The small meatballs used in the recipe above were commonly known as <i>bunduqiyyat </i>(each made as small as a <i>bunduqa </i>'hazelnut'). It is interesting to see how these small medieval meatballs found their way westwards to Spain and later on to Mexico and South America and retained their original name-- Spanish albondiga, whereas in the Middle East today, they are generally known as <i>kufta/kefta/kafta</i> etc., and in Iraq, sparrows' heads (<i>ras il-'asfour</i>). Interesting how things might change, and yet do not change!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Rummaniyya</i>, in one of its medieval versions, survived in the Levantine cuisine, especially in Palestine, cooked with eggplant, and instead of the nuts, thickened with a bit of tahini.</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhRk9f8L6_r4jSilAhyYLVeBuLW-NRye_RHqof3baBNdr_mN0BbUQUWVCarh2s_n2gHymUTHQXkZHb54iNEEkIJbBdtNnUi5lIrPNjSN1D4jgzD0l56Jf2DODi2EoJigicUr_wXiupPXEN/s1600/fasanjoon+1+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhRk9f8L6_r4jSilAhyYLVeBuLW-NRye_RHqof3baBNdr_mN0BbUQUWVCarh2s_n2gHymUTHQXkZHb54iNEEkIJbBdtNnUi5lIrPNjSN1D4jgzD0l56Jf2DODi2EoJigicUr_wXiupPXEN/s1600/fasanjoon+1+(2).jpg" height="318" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Here is my recipe: <span style="font-weight: normal;">(Makes 4 servings)</span></span></h4>
<div>
(Winner of the <b>Guardian</b>'s <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/meatballs-recipes-readers-recipe-swap-felicity-cloake" target="_blank">Readers' Recipe Swap: Meatballs</a>)</div>
<div>
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<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>For the sparrows' heads (meatballs):</b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8 ounces ground lean meat<br />1 small onion, grated<br />3 tablespoons flour<br />2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley<br />¾ teaspoon salt <br />½ teaspoon black pepper <br />½ teaspoon crushed coriander seeds<br />¼ teaspoon each, allspice, ginger powder, curry powder, chili powder<br /><b>For the sauce: </b><br />2 tablespoons oil<br />1 medium onion, coarsely chopped<br />½ teaspoon turmeric<br />1 cup toasted walnuts, pulverized in food processor until oily<br />3 cups water<br />¼ cup pomegranate molasses (available at Middle-Eastern stores)<br />1 teaspoon salt<br />½ teaspoon crushed cardamom<br />¼ teaspoon black pepper<br />½ teaspoon chili powder</span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12 ounces diced potatoes, lightly browned in some oil or brushed with oil and baked or broiled</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
1. To make meatballs: Combine all the meatball ingredients and knead lightly. With wet fingers, form into small balls (as small as sparrows heads). Shallow-fry them, or arrange them in one layer on a greased baking sheet, and broil or bake in a preheated oven 400°F. Turn pieces to brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Set aside. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />2. In a medium pot, fry onion in oil until transparent, about 5 minutes. Add turmeric and pulverized walnut and stir for about a minute. Add the meatballs, as well as the rest of the sauce ingredients. Stir gently, bring to a quick boil, and then reduce heat and let simmer gently for about 30 minutes, or until sauce is nicely thickened.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. Ladle into a deepish plate and garnish with chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds when in season; otherwise, chopped red pepper will be equally nice.<br /><br />Scrumptious served with white rice. </span><br />
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-14516082823762473972015-02-21T22:11:00.001-05:002017-10-16T22:41:30.348-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">
Winter Jams with Carrots and Beets</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">
مربى الجزر ومربى الشوندر</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">Mrabbat Jizar, Mrabbat Shuwandar </span></i></h2>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Charming jams, like the glowing embers of a brazier on a cold wintry day. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj46TC_QnOw_kl5aZ-z53HRFbDFyMIHYL6JENMDFgTFluJZQ2jHpuzNWyxyWirlb0lNdKeqwPigidjjNLFVxWpEFp9pQpJVocW73utUzupU95QfAasj3l-c4azFFAfAmShyphenhyphensfqs-5FDTNRl/s1600/IMG_3206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj46TC_QnOw_kl5aZ-z53HRFbDFyMIHYL6JENMDFgTFluJZQ2jHpuzNWyxyWirlb0lNdKeqwPigidjjNLFVxWpEFp9pQpJVocW73utUzupU95QfAasj3l-c4azFFAfAmShyphenhyphensfqs-5FDTNRl/s1600/IMG_3206.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beetroot Jam</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU7nSd4QrChKe0BTjyosmV94Dg2TcNhOkKNxhVLyTCxGXNJLX9wKgwkUk-upzI-mw_kDGiWzfW277fDYYbrq0fpHaXLU2avJpKJ8WRXCvtqngOk0tp8gEWb8BRtqhc1Urv1fkZDNSXpuJZ/s1600/IMG_3202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU7nSd4QrChKe0BTjyosmV94Dg2TcNhOkKNxhVLyTCxGXNJLX9wKgwkUk-upzI-mw_kDGiWzfW277fDYYbrq0fpHaXLU2avJpKJ8WRXCvtqngOk0tp8gEWb8BRtqhc1Urv1fkZDNSXpuJZ/s1600/IMG_3202.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrot Jam</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We tend to associate jam-making with summertime, when the lusciously sweet fruits are most abundant. The humble winter root vegetables, unfortunately, easily escape our 'jamming' attention. But this should not be. Roots, like carrots and beets, though considered vegetables, are in fact quite conducive to jam-making.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Both vegetables are winter crops in Iraq, and people use them in salads to give them a vibrant color to make up for the absence of tomatoes (summer vegetable). We enjoy beets boiled as a snack, and the resulting liquid is sweetened with some sugar, and with a squeeze of lemon, it turns into a refreshing delicious drink, we pickle it, and made into jam. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As for carrot, w</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">e munch on it as a snack food, dice it along with lamb and turn it into a spicy flavorful rice dish. We turn it into golden jam, and a delicious sweet called </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">halawat jizar</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (حلاوة جزر), home-made or purchased from the confectioners. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJoQfMU531I4vvH47RLIPl7DLQFyUV0-Is8Hq0dN8WXSsnFmIO9nkz1mCRHl1U_evh4hkhE5ShRqyaA-DfyqnSHLLKfJVYLAHruGchniZGZAK6UZZT65BT1FxjQCSD3kWA8hMRyieRGlY/s1600/2153983760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJoQfMU531I4vvH47RLIPl7DLQFyUV0-Is8Hq0dN8WXSsnFmIO9nkz1mCRHl1U_evh4hkhE5ShRqyaA-DfyqnSHLLKfJVYLAHruGchniZGZAK6UZZT65BT1FxjQCSD3kWA8hMRyieRGlY/s1600/2153983760.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buying carrot <i>halwa</i> from the <a href="http://www.albayan.ae/supplements/ramadan/markets/2011-08-29-1.1494699" target="_blank">market-place </a> </td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
A Bit of History:</h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It looks like it was on the land of ancient Mesopotamia that the first beet stew/soup (known as borscht in Europe) was cooked, as recorded in one of the three excavated Babylonian recipes, written around 1700 BC. It is quite possible that the Iraqi Jews' modern custom of cooking stews with beets has its roots deep down into the Babylonian times. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCg1pTuanvqltOd91QvmhUJ6XF8op7MBDwo07ImVj402cuxX8XGRcgNTlsHB3yNwxYLFTLRD2gW4de9WH4ownNfWlRLA1_GMd-Tv_TqwM8VFqnmbAZw5rWXei6JtXL37Af79TaU1Ea_LtE/s1600/33+website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCg1pTuanvqltOd91QvmhUJ6XF8op7MBDwo07ImVj402cuxX8XGRcgNTlsHB3yNwxYLFTLRD2gW4de9WH4ownNfWlRLA1_GMd-Tv_TqwM8VFqnmbAZw5rWXei6JtXL37Af79TaU1Ea_LtE/s1600/33+website.jpg" width="465" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5600004196167px; line-height: 14.7840003967285px;">The Babylonian cuneiform tablet with<a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2013/06/babylonia-and-beyond-history-of-iraqi.html" target="_blank"> stew recipes </a>(1700 BC). Courtesy of Yale Babylonian Collection</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This beet dish is one of the 25 stew recipes inscribed in the cuneiform tablet above. The recipe is called "<i>Tuh'u</i>-beets," and it goes thus:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Leg of mutton. Meat is used. Prepare water; add fat. Peel the vegetables. Add salt, beer, onion, arugula, coriander, <i>samidu </i>(?), cumin, and beets. Assemble all ingredients in the cooking vessel and mash leeks and garlic. After cooking, sprinkle the resulting stew with coriander and raw <i>suhutinnu </i>(?)" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The kind of beets used in such an ancient recipe should not be different from the beets we use today, even in name. We read in <i>Dictionary of Assyrian Botany</i> (by Campbell Thompson, 1948) that in the ancient </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mesopotamian region it was called ‘shumundar,’ it was as red as blood, and has a spinning-top shape (pp. 49, 51).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When we come to the medieval era, although the extant Arabic cookbooks do not have any recipes with beets, only turnips, their books on botany and horticulture do make mention of it, as <i>shamandar</i> (شمندر), sometimes occurring as<i> </i></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>jughandar</i> (جغندر) and <i>jukandar</i> (جكندر), and recipes are given for how to pickle it. It is my guess that the intense color of the beets discouraged serving it in dishes, which were more often than not served as communal meals handled with the fingers. The stains on clothes would have been too tough to wash off, indeed. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnSQ3wNAO_FfEDS0E18Xh6o05-OQUq0B5Crd6k10ruPl7Wb7eTrcMPDd3ToVpfmXNCUnhxUxjV5P_nUNLpQCZmc4RLFfi1kpvRNlNGnaMrbAaWagLg9IAZyKZ4TWNxBsW5zNqKLzfx1_aV/s1600/beets+ibn+butlan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnSQ3wNAO_FfEDS0E18Xh6o05-OQUq0B5Crd6k10ruPl7Wb7eTrcMPDd3ToVpfmXNCUnhxUxjV5P_nUNLpQCZmc4RLFfi1kpvRNlNGnaMrbAaWagLg9IAZyKZ4TWNxBsW5zNqKLzfx1_aV/s1600/beets+ibn+butlan.jpg" width="579" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.godecookery.com/tacuin/tacuin04.htm" target="_blank">Illustration</a> of a woman harvesting beets. From the late 1300s <i>Tacuinum Sanitatis</i>, a medieval European health handbook based on 11th-century ِArabic book <i>Taqweem al-Sihha</i> تقويم الصحة (Maintenance of Health)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">by the famous Christian physician and native of Baghdad Ibn Butlan (أبن بطلان) </span></td></tr>
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As for carrots, while I could bot find any references to it in the ancient Mesopotamian records, there is ample evidence that it was a popular root-vegetable in the medieval Arabo-Islamic world, including Baghdad. Of the cultivated carrots, there was mention of red and orange carrots -- juicy, tender, and delicious, which poets compared to
carnelian, rubies, flames of fire, coral reeds, and gold. The yellow carrot was described as being thicker and denser in texture than the red-orange variety; and white carrot must have been parsnips, described as aromatic, deliciously sharp in taste, with a pleasant crunch. Carrots were eaten raw and cooked.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigw6Qk2ZJJUqixRPnM6BkQgM7LFcihL2iUUhL0fxn1DP-aexS3HuSgwxFNyrJ1Qlb_Nwcnwb-04LDInSO8f8cM0vZ4X9q52ce9iT8WYr8tg63M7W9plBCqQDASscdTmTuyOJaQvIuoYhGZ/s1600/tacuinumviennalge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigw6Qk2ZJJUqixRPnM6BkQgM7LFcihL2iUUhL0fxn1DP-aexS3HuSgwxFNyrJ1Qlb_Nwcnwb-04LDInSO8f8cM0vZ4X9q52ce9iT8WYr8tg63M7W9plBCqQDASscdTmTuyOJaQvIuoYhGZ/s1600/tacuinumviennalge.jpg" width="529" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.carrotmuseum.co.uk/history2.html" target="_blank"><span style="text-align: left;"> </span>Illustration</a> of a farmer harvesting parsnips (below: harvesting carrots). From the late 1300s <i>Tacuinum Sanitatis</i>, a medieval European health handbook based on 11th-century Arabic book <i>Taqweem al-Sihha</i> تقويم الصحة (Maintenance of Health) by the famous Christian physician and native of Baghdad Ibn Butlan (أبن بطلان) </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Many recipes were preserved in the extant medieval Arabic cookbooks. A</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">l-Warraq’s 10th-century Baghdadi cookbook, for instance, gives recipes for cold carrot dishes, called <i>salayiq </i>(صلايق); condensed puddings of <i>khabees </i>(خبيص); jams <i>murabba</i> (مربّى), and drinks <i>sharab </i>(شراب), which were believed to invigorate coitus. In fact, both beets and carrots were thought of as aphrodisiac foods. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqhes0-Tg3OkVny_X_H6YIgs-wwb_ETcFe1XO-jxeqxOsCUCP_KkD4c8Aw0bBAubvIyxcO84NxSmqnvRuwmjbmGgmWUCZUYcshD2RJWm0N36KAJYCjq3mmrB9wYqGoDbS0ozGGMVtlBgR9/s1600/tacuinum1lge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqhes0-Tg3OkVny_X_H6YIgs-wwb_ETcFe1XO-jxeqxOsCUCP_KkD4c8Aw0bBAubvIyxcO84NxSmqnvRuwmjbmGgmWUCZUYcshD2RJWm0N36KAJYCjq3mmrB9wYqGoDbS0ozGGMVtlBgR9/s1600/tacuinum1lge.jpg" width="454" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Nowadays, both roots are highly valued as powerhouses of nutrients, and exploring their culinary possibilities is well worth it. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For inspiration, visit </span><a href="http://www.carrotmuseum.co.uk/history1.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">World Carrot Museum</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="http://www.lovebeetroot.co.uk/fastfacts/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Love Beetroot</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> , and of course the following jams. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Here is how to make them:</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The same method and amounts can work for both, except for the flavorings. I like to use cardamon and a bit of rose water for the carrot jam, and cardamom and a bit of vanilla for the beet jam, but feel free to experiment to your liking.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8IFumxew4KnSIpXzBAONZcjryL3omiLowhNO0zWXPNvyUWOcwo0Q3m2FJ7A3PzImT7YMzppdEO6wyiYaxNc8Of7dKzw0tTkKYCjYKCSMkoxgovwlG6WB4FiDerEFfIe5VKlDqCYeEJB5/s1600/IMG_3207+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8IFumxew4KnSIpXzBAONZcjryL3omiLowhNO0zWXPNvyUWOcwo0Q3m2FJ7A3PzImT7YMzppdEO6wyiYaxNc8Of7dKzw0tTkKYCjYKCSMkoxgovwlG6WB4FiDerEFfIe5VKlDqCYeEJB5/s1600/IMG_3207+(2).jpg" width="285" /></a></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For the beet jam, I just peeled the root and cut it into thin slices. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For the carrot jam, I used my fun new kitchen gadget the spiral vegetable slicer. Usually it does a very good job on slicing veggies into enticing strands.Previously I used to slice the carrot thinly or shred it in the food processor, but the carrot strands I got with this slicer were really beautiful.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 pound carrots or beets (amount weighed after peeling and cutting or slicing)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">1½ </span>cups granulated sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1/2 cup water </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2 tablespoons honey</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3 whole pods cardamom</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1/4 cup walnut halves, optional </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 tablespoon lemon juice<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 teaspoon rose water</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 teaspoon vanilla</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(See my comment above on flavorings)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1. In a medium heavy pot, layer carrots or beets with sugar. Add water, cover the pot, and set aside,
overnight. The sugar will melt and the vegetables will release a lot of their juices. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2. Put the pot on medium fire. Add honey, cardamom and walnut (if used). Fold the mix gently and let it boil quietly, skimming the froth if needed, about 20 minutes. Five minutes before the jam is done, add lemon juice and the flavorings. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To test for doneness, put a drop of the syrup in a small plate. If the drop keeps its domed shape and does not go flat, the jam is done. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Let the jam cool off completely, and keep in the refrigerator. Lovely with butter or cream cheese, or sour cream. You can even enjoy it by itself as dessert. The beets and the carrots will have a scrumptiously chewy bite to them. </span><br />
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-76506943348104425932015-02-01T21:34:00.001-05:002015-02-01T22:13:11.547-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-size: x-large;">Ishtar's Love Potion: </span></div>
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-size: x-large;">Rosewater Scented Spicy Date Cake</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For Valentine's Day, do the overworked Cupids a favor and make this cake. Even more potent than their arrows!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKORv_zXFipTi4ZRYTZuYsFfutEkLh4FsqaMS4kxTjHg5NjM9WmcXU5PvAV0m6x8b0ZyGvqSYV0q4KIYdNbMoqiGG-wF7v_GuB-L47-Bq5JSRDX8oTZv6iSmeDSJpLt5Q9cbOf5bGauqwm/s1600/03+ishtar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKORv_zXFipTi4ZRYTZuYsFfutEkLh4FsqaMS4kxTjHg5NjM9WmcXU5PvAV0m6x8b0ZyGvqSYV0q4KIYdNbMoqiGG-wF7v_GuB-L47-Bq5JSRDX8oTZv6iSmeDSJpLt5Q9cbOf5bGauqwm/s1600/03+ishtar.jpg" height="370" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ishtar (Sumerian Inanna) is the ancient goddess of love, fertility, and
sexuality in the ancient Mesopotamian culture. She is the prototype no less of a host of seductress goddesses,
known in later times and other lands, such as Astarte, Hathor, Venus and
Aphrodite. Aphrodite was the one who gave her name to all the foods and dishes, which enhance sexuality, the
libido boosters, the Aphrodisiacs. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEy_MIGKnwwAUtabuvK5EKMTbsp62OD1rC7iDhCrwF2acY72vs9BRJQkIEKLNPqgdcAz-z4kGvokCc4I-Icn5ycg0HrToijkZgwGoqvzRfEXVjIb7vIOQQL6paCRNrCpENAARmfAApaHE/s1600/assyrian-ishtar.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEy_MIGKnwwAUtabuvK5EKMTbsp62OD1rC7iDhCrwF2acY72vs9BRJQkIEKLNPqgdcAz-z4kGvokCc4I-Icn5ycg0HrToijkZgwGoqvzRfEXVjIb7vIOQQL6paCRNrCpENAARmfAApaHE/s1600/assyrian-ishtar.gif" height="398" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Assyrian<a href="http://www.matrifocus.com/SAM08/spotlight.htm" target="_blank"> Ishtar</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi85PU_BNq_Bl7czghWJ3QW_AW6ZfzcbpS-44BV8aTBEc60YEwtBJwWGac9A83rXx1UmbY1e3VH9mdpWIkgrSgcqe_FDeybhtWLs9ph0fsSSK119kGel5I8frGhPveOeTQjAO10GzenmQtt/s1600/Inanna+with+'feathers'a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi85PU_BNq_Bl7czghWJ3QW_AW6ZfzcbpS-44BV8aTBEc60YEwtBJwWGac9A83rXx1UmbY1e3VH9mdpWIkgrSgcqe_FDeybhtWLs9ph0fsSSK119kGel5I8frGhPveOeTQjAO10GzenmQtt/s1600/Inanna+with+'feathers'a.jpg" height="182" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inanna holding<a href="http://www.thewica.co.uk/whowp.htm" target="_blank"> dates</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now, in ancient Mesopotamian mythology, Ishtar was closely associated with the date palm, it was her symbol and abode. She was often called 'The Lady of the Date Clusters', and her lover and spouse, Dumuzi/Tammuz (prototype of Adonis), god of food and vegetation, was called 'The one great source of the date clusters'.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To the ancient Mesopotamians, the date palm and its fruit were important products economically. The dates were valued for their great nutritional value, and it made sense to associate them with Ishtar and her beloved husband, and to believe that they were highly Aphrodisiac. </span>I<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">n fact, we still believe so. Grooms, for instance, are advised to eat one pound of dates on the day of their wedding. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3tLpbMItWf7IvBHVNWfInAl8adjol2gUwAtgVjpmGwgK9XYfT1jIafxgI95b5Ywl6Y8-Ff51HyqYX6LRGEBoakCm2MthDQ8ogQr1hPjdfcUoS5qbdbIhvNHfSRXFnvc9G3bx_pZxWhzC/s1600/CaptureWiz1226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3tLpbMItWf7IvBHVNWfInAl8adjol2gUwAtgVjpmGwgK9XYfT1jIafxgI95b5Ywl6Y8-Ff51HyqYX6LRGEBoakCm2MthDQ8ogQr1hPjdfcUoS5qbdbIhvNHfSRXFnvc9G3bx_pZxWhzC/s1600/CaptureWiz1226.jpg" height="200" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman, Goddess, and <a href="http://www.bibleorigins.net/InannaDumuziPictures.html" target="_blank">Date Palm</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ancient Mesopotamians knew how to make cakes. Some surviving
</span><a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/guess_who_made_the_first_fruitcakes" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">cuneiform texts</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> even give the proportions for cakes with fruits, including
dates, to go to the temple and the palace. So I believe goddess Ishtar must
have eaten a lot of such cakes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This scrumptious cake is in honor of the 'Lady of the Dates' Ishtar, who definitely knew quite well what dates can do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is how to make it:</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(I adapted this recipe for my book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dates-Global-History-Reaktion-Edible/dp/1861897960/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422843095&sr=8-3&keywords=nawal+nasrallah" target="_blank"><i>Dates: A Global History</i></a> (UK, London: Reaktion Books, </span><span style="font-family: Gentium; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">2011). I also make it with prunes/dried <a href="http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/2012/03/spicy-prune-cake-makes-16-slices.html" target="_blank">plums</a>. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Equally delicious!)</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the cake:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1½ cups (10 ounces) whole seedless dates</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1¼ cups brewed black tea<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup oil (such as canola)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1½ cups granulated sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 eggs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1½ teaspoons vanilla<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2½ cups all-purpose white flour<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 teaspoons baking powder<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 teaspoon cinnamon, cardamom, each<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, cloves, each<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the filling and icing:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 pint heavy/whipping cream, divided</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup plus 1 heaping tablespoon of powdered sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 tablespoon rose water</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup brown sugar, packed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4 tablespoons butter<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 teaspoon vanilla</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 ounces pecan or walnut halves, lightly toasted<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 ounce, shredded unsweetened coconut </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Preheat oven 375°F<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. Put dates and tea in a small pot. Bring to a quick boil,
then simmer for about 10 minutes, or until dates soften (but not mushy). Drain
the dates, but reserve the drained liquid. Let them cool off to room temperature. Cut the drained dates into
small pieces, and add enough cold water to liquid to make it measure ⅔ cup.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. In a big bowl, put oil, sugar, eggs, and vanilla, and beat for 2 minutes. Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon,
cardamom, nutmeg, and cloves. Stir the flour-mix into the egg-mix, in two batches, alternately with the measured
date liquid. Stir in dates. Divide batter between two 9-inch round baking pans.
Bake for about 40 minutes, or until surface feels firm to the touch. Let them
stand for 10 minutes and then invert on a cooling rack.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. When completely cool, divide the cakes into halves, and fill
the layers with whipped cream made by whisking together 1¾ cup whipping cream
with 1 heaping tablespoon powdered sugar and rosewater. Do not put any whipped
cream on the face of the cake because it will be covered with the icing,
prepared as in the following step.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4. In a small saucepan, combine brown sugar, 1/4 cup heavy cream,
and butter. Bring to a boil, on medium heat, stirring to allow sugar to
dissolve. Boil gently for about 4 minutes. Let it cool off completely. Stir in 1/2 cup powdered sugar and vanilla, until smooth. It should be neither too thick nor runny in consistency.
Use immediately.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5. Spoon the icing on the top layer of the cake and make it
look like swirls. Arrange the pecan or walnut halves and sprinkle with the coconut. Or decorate it whichever way you like. Keep refrigerated for about an hour and then
serve.</span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-91463435497391604512014-12-24T23:11:00.002-05:002014-12-24T23:13:57.576-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><i>Halawat Sha'riyya</i>:</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">Sweet n'Golden Vermicelli Noodles </span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">Iraqi Style</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">حلاوة شعرية</span></h2>
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May your days be as sweet and luscious as <i>Halawat Sha'riyya</i>!<i> </i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Sha’riyya </i>(also called <i>sha'eeriyya </i>in some Arab countries)<i> </i>is wheat-noodles, similar to angel hair
pasta. It is mostly sold in form of balls (also called ‘nests’, see photo below), available at
Middle Eastern stores (sometimes labelled ‘thin noodles #1’). F</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">or savory dishes, we break it and drop it into soup pots as a thickening agent, or fry it and let it steam with rice, as garnish. And in this </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">enticing dessert of <i>halawat sha'riyya</i>, where it is the main ingredient, we keep the strands relatively long.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy952HnQDgxdDoI3TVobrpsE5gUjRJhyphenhyphenClABbwMKZyc6IGG12DBPu-YP4bS3KR_PfwlN-bRHVw0_GDTW50sHmg7sbIMukyM1oRaJCAXCsGIgX0bItOb_UwcG_TPHA1rlG77Tphj7zYwPVU/s1600/02+sha'riyya%2Bvermicelli%2Bnoodles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy952HnQDgxdDoI3TVobrpsE5gUjRJhyphenhyphenClABbwMKZyc6IGG12DBPu-YP4bS3KR_PfwlN-bRHVw0_GDTW50sHmg7sbIMukyM1oRaJCAXCsGIgX0bItOb_UwcG_TPHA1rlG77Tphj7zYwPVU/s1600/02+sha'riyya%2Bvermicelli%2Bnoodles.jpg" height="330" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">The earliest reference I was able to detect for the term <i>sha'riyya</i>/<i>sha'eeriyya</i> was in the 15th-century Syrian cookbook <i>Kitab al-Tibakha</i> (كتاب الطباخة) by the famous scholar Ibn al-Mubarrid. However, in all probability the pasta he mentioned referred to an orzo-like variety as the name indicates that the pieces looked like barley grains <i>sha'eer</i> (شعير). <i>Sha'riyya</i> and <i>sha'eeriyya</i> designating hair-like pasta must have evolved some time later.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Making thin noodles has a long history in the the Middle East. In the eastern and the western parts of the </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: normal;">medieval Islamic world, many types of pasta, dried and fresh, were already familiar foods, the most prevalent of which were <i>itriya</i> and <i>rishta</i>.</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlSkLyo6oJ-iO9sIgsD7NDNiDIjGfh2bp2D7moIZLLX_91cZXaX9X4KOMdlMOVyGMl0sRqVc0ej6xRbWbAmBmMzM6y32f1gmrH39An5RLLOXs76PAW0tGsGm1rgKWgaiu0FqLJa8b4iml/s1600/01+itriya.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlSkLyo6oJ-iO9sIgsD7NDNiDIjGfh2bp2D7moIZLLX_91cZXaX9X4KOMdlMOVyGMl0sRqVc0ej6xRbWbAmBmMzM6y32f1gmrH39An5RLLOXs76PAW0tGsGm1rgKWgaiu0FqLJa8b4iml/s1600/01+itriya.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Medieval cook preparing <i>rishta, </i>detail(<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 115%;">Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, <br />Smithsonian Institution. S1986.221</span>)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><i>Itriya </i>(إطرية) was described as thin strings of noodles made with stiff unfermented dough (</span><i style="line-height: 115%;">fateer</i><span style="line-height: 115%;">). References to it in cookbooks reveal that it was usually available as dried pasta. We are lucky to have a recipe for making it in the 13th-century Andalusian cookbook</span><i style="line-height: 115%;"> Fidhalat al-Khiwan</i><span style="line-height: 115%;">: Semolina or regular flour was made into stiff dough with water and a little salt, and then rolled out thinly on a rectangular board. It was then cut into thin strings, and each string was rolled between the palms as thinly as possible. These strings were left to dry out in the sun (al-Tujeebi, p 91). As for </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><i>rishta</i> (رشتة), according to the </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">10th-century physician Ibn Sina, it was the Persian name for </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><i>itriya</i>, called so because it looked like fine strings. Other sources; however, do point to the fact that whereas <i>itriya </i>was dried noodles, <i>rishta </i>was used fresh.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whether fresh or dried, these noodles were incorporated into the medieval stews, soups, or eaten as a main hot dish cooked with meat, as we do with pasta nowadays. We also have recipes for cooking them as sweet thick puddings with milk and butter, and sweetened with honey. These sweets came under the category of <i>muhallabiyyat</i>, as in al-Warraq's 10th- century cookbook <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh (</i>Chapter 98). In this book, we also have documented the earliest recipe for a noodle dish. The recipe comes from </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">the famous Baghdadi 9th-century singer Ishaq bin ibrahim al-Mawsili.It involves </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">a rich chicken stew (al-Warraq, chapter 72).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEKetxZ9K7KL5WKY9jMQeohUXLylPzW9aNjHpPvk3c8eR0K04JB8-4TKzNMU4Rc-373H3Sk1qsIvJVvuXj755OYA1TaZVPlWpaHTgT1-6NLhFGG9AVCZlJYwNkTfH3jnCFqlqwgEomnDe/s1600/02+rishta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEKetxZ9K7KL5WKY9jMQeohUXLylPzW9aNjHpPvk3c8eR0K04JB8-4TKzNMU4Rc-373H3Sk1qsIvJVvuXj755OYA1TaZVPlWpaHTgT1-6NLhFGG9AVCZlJYwNkTfH3jnCFqlqwgEomnDe/s1600/02+rishta.jpg" height="640" width="584" /></a></td></tr>
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Cooking noodles: Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution. S1986.221, detail<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: normal;">Whereas the n</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">ame <i>r</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>ishta</i> is still in circulation today, <i>itriya</i> fell out of use, and it is unsettled as to what it means, although it seems to have had a </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">remarkably long history in the Middle East and the southern and eastern Mediterranean regions. According
to 11th-century Arab scholar al-Biruni, </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">itriya </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">was called </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">itreen</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in Latin and Syriac. F</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">rom non-Arab sources we know that before the Latin </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">itria was </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">mentioned in Galen (second century AD),
it was </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">itrion </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">in Greek.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It seems to me that the location where it was most widely used is the key to its meaning. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Jerusalem Talmud, which dates back to
5th-century AD, mentions “a kind of pasta known as itrium was common in
Palestine from the 3rd to 5th centuries” (Silvano Serventi, <i>Pasta</i>, p. 17). </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As early as the 8th century, the famous Arab linguist
al-Khalil bin Ahmed in his dictionary<i> Al-‘Ayn</i> describes <i>itriya</i> (</span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">إطرية</span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">)
as the specialty food of Ahl al-Sham, that is, people of the Levant in the
Eastern Mediterranean region. Now, in the medieval lexicon <i>Lisan al-‘Arab</i> (s.v.
</span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">طرأ</span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) these people were called <i>Turiyoun</i> (</span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">طوريون</span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">), i.e. from al-Tur (</span><span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">الطور</span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span dir="LTR" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) al-Sham. And hence <i>itriya</i>. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2gy9VmfcMYFVjXu6tyedOth4ePv-JBVAyCjYO87ZF0GLaGqxBYTbpUylzF0AqfciM38P2SJOqcmvPNlgCrD-DZhGV8rFtZvW1sV7GLqUTWrb54JezI7bsk5qEEOhpmcYd1dNMI_X3T_I0/s1600/01+halawa+shariyya+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2gy9VmfcMYFVjXu6tyedOth4ePv-JBVAyCjYO87ZF0GLaGqxBYTbpUylzF0AqfciM38P2SJOqcmvPNlgCrD-DZhGV8rFtZvW1sV7GLqUTWrb54JezI7bsk5qEEOhpmcYd1dNMI_X3T_I0/s1600/01+halawa+shariyya+(2).jpg" height="438" width="640" /></a></div>
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Recipe for <i>Halawat Sha'riyya</i>:</div>
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(Makes 6 servings)</div>
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<b>2 tablespoons butter plus 2 tablespoon oil (such as canola)<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>6 ounces (175 g) vermicelli wheat noodles (about 7 balls) <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>2 ¼ cups hot water<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>A pinch of salt <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>1 teaspoon ground cardamom <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>½ cup broken walnut pieces, toasted<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>For garnish: 2 tablespoons coarsely ground pistachio</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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1. Melt butter with oil in a medium heavy pot. Slightly
crush noodle balls between your fingers and add them, stirring constantly until
golden brown, about 5 minutes. Carefully pour in hot water, and add salt. Stir,
and bring to a quick boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, until the
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2. Add sugar, cardamom, rose water, and walnut.
Stir until sugar crystals dissolve. Let the pot simmer, covered, on medium-low,
stirring 2 or 3 times, until moisture is absorbed, noodles look glossy, and
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3. Immediately, spread it on a platter, and give it a
generous sprinkle of ground pistachio. Serve it warm. Leftovers may be
refrigerated and heated for 30 seconds in the microwave when needed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Enjoy!</div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-89929550374928292542014-11-29T22:43:00.001-05:002014-11-30T08:24:26.063-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Iraqi <i>Geymer</i></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">قيمر عراقي<br />Clotted Cream, Iraqi Style</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Luscious! All it needs is a piece of warm bread and honey or date syrup (<i>dibis</i>), to be washed down with hot tea:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Geymer</i>, also pronounced <i>qeymer</i>, is the skimmed solidified upper
layer of the simmered and then cooled off buffalo or cow’s milk; but b</span><st1:city style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;" w:st="on">uffalo</st1:city><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"> milk yields thicker and richer cream</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. It is a very traditional breakfast treat with a very long history in the Middle East. In Egypt it is better known as </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">qishta </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(قشطة), literally 'the skimmed'; and in the Levant it can go for <i>qishta </i>or <i>qaymaq </i>(قيمق also pronounced أيمأ or أيمع), which beyond doubt is a direct borrowing of of the Turkish </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">kaymak</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, which in turn is said to have a Central Asian origin in the word <i>kayl-mak</i> (meaning: melt, and molding of metals) and other variants. The first documented mention of the Turkic <i>qaymaq </i>is in Mahmud al-Kashgari's 11th- century dictionary on languages of the Turks ديوان لغات الترك. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As for the Iraqi word <i>geymer</i>, although it is generally assumed to have been derived from the Turkish <i>kaymak, </i>I have a strong hunch that for etymology we have to look somewhere else, namely the Sumerian and Akkadian languages of ancient Iraq. Based on <a href="http://psd.museum.upenn.edu/epsd1/nepsd-frame.html" target="_blank">The Pennsylvania Sumerian Dictionary</a>, Sumerian <b>ga</b> is 'milk', and <b>mur</b>/ <b>imru</b> mean 'to become thick or solid', and this is what <i>geymer</i> really is all about.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Quite possibly it was one of those words that circulated among the indigenous inhabitants of Iraq but did not make it to the surviving records of medieval times.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5P_tG2HYNQMuI2nS2NsOggF9-WbpjJWq4jRx_n6BQoB2Nv9ah9yODbCJkgvlVGuriAzdXg5mVqsq0lTTRgxg7fMI0g-nIoYNRM-8zZCERtNIHD8X8Q86h4NmwVmXCtFGBQCPWTJG_Wr3/s1600/02+geymer+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5P_tG2HYNQMuI2nS2NsOggF9-WbpjJWq4jRx_n6BQoB2Nv9ah9yODbCJkgvlVGuriAzdXg5mVqsq0lTTRgxg7fMI0g-nIoYNRM-8zZCERtNIHD8X8Q86h4NmwVmXCtFGBQCPWTJG_Wr3/s1600/02+geymer+(2).jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">I remember we used to have <i>geymer </i>for breakfast almost every day e</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">specially in winter (</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">people were still oblivious of cholesterol back then). We used to buy it early in
the morning from the neighborhood grocery store, or from the door-to-door female
peasant vendors. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vGAkHhzon2Oryr5DmNwXtJ9F3I2Oa5JdmU43WZYN6oGYbaz0E1hmsu5sjNpsJmQUFZInat3TppEzdZFq6gAzooYLHB0AI5Iw8PdUaUUqg26zUFL39Kk0awgNSATKAZ0RtRjVorFNNqtM/s1600/Ge.Rubaa.1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vGAkHhzon2Oryr5DmNwXtJ9F3I2Oa5JdmU43WZYN6oGYbaz0E1hmsu5sjNpsJmQUFZInat3TppEzdZFq6gAzooYLHB0AI5Iw8PdUaUUqg26zUFL39Kk0awgNSATKAZ0RtRjVorFNNqtM/s1600/Ge.Rubaa.1.JPG" height="440" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://islamicbooks.info/H-28-Arabic-Variable/Breakfast-Iraqi.htm.htm" target="_blank">Geymer sellers </a>in Baghdad in the 1920s </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">As they go from one street to another, balancing their big
trays of </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">geymer </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">on their heads, they
would periodically announce their merchandise at the top of their shrill voices,
"</span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">Geymer Yooo.</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;">" They would
cut slabs of cream with a knife, sometimes with a safety pin, and as a treat,
would pour on it some milk.</span><br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Geymer Recipe</span></h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We scoop g</span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">eymer</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> with a piece of bread or make it into a sandwich with date syrup, honey, or jam. A winter breakfast treat may be </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">geymer</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">kahi</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, which is thin sheets of unleavened dough (similar to Egyptian </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">fateer</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> dough), folded and baked, and eaten drenched in light syrup, and decked with a generous slab of geymer. </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kahi</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is usually purchased from specialized bakeries. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjIjodVZto0JVsHKV61VWs5P7v2K6n5xMjse8Z4x9VUc8HWtgiHD17_UdDqKclabe4eAdNGb3iJHOcyxXmFuOYYZnr6k_sjGJHbHz-rYNOpoDw6Hbi9svWIuO-DEPzWTwleG-wtUh_UZo8/s1600/geymer+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjIjodVZto0JVsHKV61VWs5P7v2K6n5xMjse8Z4x9VUc8HWtgiHD17_UdDqKclabe4eAdNGb3iJHOcyxXmFuOYYZnr6k_sjGJHbHz-rYNOpoDw6Hbi9svWIuO-DEPzWTwleG-wtUh_UZo8/s1600/geymer+(2).jpg" height="467" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Geymer</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> is quite easy to make. All it
needs is patience. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1.
Have ready equal amounts of heavy or whipping cream and whole milk. To
make 4 servings, use 1 pint (2 cups) heavy/whipping cream and 1 pint (2
cups) whole milk. You may use the empty heavy cream container to
measure milk, to have equal amounts of both.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2.
Put milk and cream in a heavy pot (8 to 9 inches in diameter). Give the milk a gentle stir and simmer it
on slow fire until it starts to rise a little bit, but do not let it boil over, so you need
to watch it (about 30 minutes, do not stir the pot while simmering). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4.
Away from heat and in a draft-free warm place, put on the pot a colander
turned upside down to create a dome on top of the pot. Cover the pot, with the colander on it, with a blanket, and leave it for about 6
hours (the outside of the pot should no longer feel warm to the touch). The function of the colander here is to prevent the rising condensed
steam from falling down to the surface of the milk-cream mixture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5.
Remove coverings and colander, put the lid on pot, and refrigerate for 24
to 36 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6.
Run a knife around the entire edge of the solidified top to dislodge it from
the pot. Then use a pancake flipper to push the disc down from one side to let
it fold into a half disc. This will enable you to have a neat slab of <i>geymer</i>. Transfer it to a slightly deep
dish, and drizzle with some of the remaining milk. Serve immediately along with
warm bread and jam, honey or date syrup, or refrigerate it for later use. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">7.
Repeat the same procedure with the remaining milk. Whatever milk remains from
the second time you can make <a href="http://kitchenjournals.com/2014/10/homemade-yogurt/" target="_blank">yogurt</a> with it. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_iS1fsAOzP_6vR7imPwIirsnt2UuNbgtxdujOCBzXeAOhQsAzlKBDhyphenhyphenLcnD6GZ_Wz2GgsB8ubtolTKq5GFuJn2WWQPqfBWg9Zn50uGloFbrcec7bjTIrAZur_RXk6RQ6YvdAZAdeRw5B/s1600/geymer+3+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_iS1fsAOzP_6vR7imPwIirsnt2UuNbgtxdujOCBzXeAOhQsAzlKBDhyphenhyphenLcnD6GZ_Wz2GgsB8ubtolTKq5GFuJn2WWQPqfBWg9Zn50uGloFbrcec7bjTIrAZur_RXk6RQ6YvdAZAdeRw5B/s1600/geymer+3+(2).jpg" height="328" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><i><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Iraq</span></i></st1:place></st1:country-region><i><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">i Folk Song<o:p></o:p></span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">أغنية عراقية شعبية</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: left;">Since </span><i style="text-align: left;">Geymer</i><span style="text-align: left;"> is white, creamy, and luscious, comparing the beloved's cheeks to </span><i style="text-align: left;">geymer</i><span style="text-align: left;"> is a common metaphor in Iraqi folkloric songs and poems. I recall a song, in particular, in which the lover vows to make his beloved's </span><i style="text-align: left;">geymer</i><span style="text-align: left;">-like cheeks, his breakfast.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
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<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-IQ" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: large;">يم العيون السود ما جوزن أنا
خدّج الكيمر أناأتريّك منة</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of you, black-eyed beauty, I will
not let go,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Your luscious <i>geymer</i>-cheeks, they will my breakfast be.</span></div>
</div>
Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-73470886118666959772014-09-17T11:03:00.000-04:002014-09-17T11:03:46.378-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><i>Lahm b-'Ajeen</i></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">Arabian Counterpart of Italian Pizza</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">لحم بعجين</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is what it literally means—‘meat with dough’. Well-loved carryout food in the Levant and Iraq, simple, practical and delicious. Equally ubiquitous in Turkey, where it is called <i>lahmacun</i>, which no doubt is a direct borrowing of the Arabic, etymologically and culinarily. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4tI7puu-kyLS5E07lOjNezTHuQSq-o1xXsvobGxbqvZQQGSxFMnqSHjOlyVL7qKqW4HkORlA7F8bomVdYrdXWqI330afHKC2S_knHCLiIYWLNHyCYln1CzjpbgFZPsqxyrqfmekfRs6F/s1600/lahm+bajeen+old+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4tI7puu-kyLS5E07lOjNezTHuQSq-o1xXsvobGxbqvZQQGSxFMnqSHjOlyVL7qKqW4HkORlA7F8bomVdYrdXWqI330afHKC2S_knHCLiIYWLNHyCYln1CzjpbgFZPsqxyrqfmekfRs6F/s1600/lahm+bajeen+old+1.jpg" height="576" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Lahm b-'ajeen</i> apparently had a long history in the Arab regions, and it seems to have first originated in the Levant. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The earliest recipe I could lay my hands on occurs in 13th-century Aleppan cookbook </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Al-Wusla ila ‘l-Habeeb </i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">الوصلة الى الحبيب في وصف الطيبات والطيب</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) written by the well-known Syrian historian Ibn Al-'Adeem (d. 1262). The recipe is just one line long, but it certainly points to our dish, "Meat is cut, spread on flattened discs of dough, and then put in the brick oven furn.” (p. 2:556) </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18.3999996185303px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">However, in Iraq this food seems to have been kept on the back burner for a long while. W</span><span style="line-height: 115%;">hen I was still a kid in Baghdad, not many people
knew of it. We used to get it by order from the neighborhood bakery owned by an
Armenian, but his version was very basic. The topping consisted of just meat,
onions, salt, and black pepper. By the seventies, though, popularity of this delicious bread picked up and many small bakeries specialized in making it were opened in the major cities of Iraq to meet the </span><span style="line-height: 18.3999996185303px;">increasing</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> demand. It </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">comes out of their brick ovens sizzling hot, </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">lusciously moist
and tender, and dripping with the melted fat of meat. Delicious surely, but unfortunately too greasy. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This food is too good to pass, and why should we. We can make it ourselves, equally delicious but much healthier. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is indeed fun to make but definitely not a dish to whip in 30 minutes. But I assure you it would be time well invested.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfWI66NlFYH6OIfhyphenhyphen-SmH4oKW9V88jP3ay0An7vMWgEdgOF6L3sa7qvA0U66urY0W8Y6SIDL-SaXuMRKyKpiug_Y_La_SwynpfFCLKEkg4_cRzruhQmJbn-2kzExWeVMh09muWb8ATXgo/s1600/lahm+bajeen++old+o2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfWI66NlFYH6OIfhyphenhyphen-SmH4oKW9V88jP3ay0An7vMWgEdgOF6L3sa7qvA0U66urY0W8Y6SIDL-SaXuMRKyKpiug_Y_La_SwynpfFCLKEkg4_cRzruhQmJbn-2kzExWeVMh09muWb8ATXgo/s1600/lahm+bajeen++old+o2.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #741b47; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Recipe for making <i>lahm b-'ajeen</i>: </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></h3>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">First we need to prepare the dough (the </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">'ajeen</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> part):</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 tablespoons dry yeast<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 tablespoon sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup warm water<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9 cups (2¼ pounds) bread flour<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 tablespoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup oil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 cups warm water<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. Dissolve yeast and sugar in ½ cup warm water, set aside for 5 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. Put flour and salt in a big bowl. Make a well in the
middle, and pour yeast mixture along with oil and water. With a wooden spoon,
incorporate liquids into flour in a circular movement. With slightly oiled
hands, knead dough for about 5 minutes. The final dough should be of medium
consistency. Oil dough on both sides and set it aside, covered, in a warm
draft-free place for 45 minutes or until well risen. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Now to the meat part (<i>lahm</i>):</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While waiting for the dough to rise, prepare the topping:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 medium onions (about 2 cups), finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 tablespoons olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 heaping tablespoons tomato paste (one 6-ounce can)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1½ - 2 pounds ground lean meat (beef or lamb, or a mix of both)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¾ cup chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 medium tomatoes (about 1½ cups), finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 tablespoon pomegranate syrup (may use lemon juice instead)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 teaspoons <i>baharat</i> (spice mix, <a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/iraqi_ingredients" target="_blank">follow link</a> for recipe)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 teaspoons salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ teaspoon allspice<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ teaspoon chili pepper, or to taste<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sauté onion in oil, about 5 minutes (just enough to soften it), and then stir in tomato paste until it emits a nice aroma, about a minute. Set aside until it cools down to room temperature. Then mix in the rest of the topping ingredients. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Now, it's shape and bake time: </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. P</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">osition one of the oven shelves at the lowest level if
oven is electric, and put on it a pizza stone or an inverted baking sheet. If oven is gas,
remove the lowest shelf, and place the pizza stone right on the oven floor.
Position the second shelf at the highest level, and p</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">reheat oven 420°F</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. As soon as dough rises, punch it down and divide it into
20 pieces, which you shape into neat balls by tucking in the sides with
slightly oiled hands. Place portions on a lightly-oiled surface..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. Since the dough does not need to rise again, you can start
shaping and baking right away. Lightly cover work surface and rolling
pin with olive oil, and roll out a dough portion into a disc about 7 inches in
diameter (or rectangle), about ⅛ inch thick. Place the flattened dough on a piece of parchment
paper, a little bigger than the dough disc. Spread about ¼ cup of the meat mix on it. It should cover the surface in a thin layer,
leaving a slight border uncovered. Lightly brush uncovered border with
olive oil. (If parchment paper is not available, use greased baking sheets).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqfDfdtXa_Mv9D7En4c9HWb3CjRz1dnfoNyjr4fsp_kLv2uH0zCDPP5Cg-PfK4v-_TlbVbHGxXKM4S17I37DVSKqCyfEOkm9dzXCq94M6EF1RrEg374IBF-w5j_qBUtJFOeuio3OlLavX/s1600/lahm+ajeen+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqfDfdtXa_Mv9D7En4c9HWb3CjRz1dnfoNyjr4fsp_kLv2uH0zCDPP5Cg-PfK4v-_TlbVbHGxXKM4S17I37DVSKqCyfEOkm9dzXCq94M6EF1RrEg374IBF-w5j_qBUtJFOeuio3OlLavX/s1600/lahm+ajeen+06.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
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4. Immediately, and with the help of a small bread peel (or a solid piece of cardboard or wood or anything similar). Slide the disc into the hot stone or the inverted baking sheet. Dough is not supposed to puff like pita bread, and it will take about 8 minutes to bake. You can bake 2 or 3 at a time depending on oven or pizza stone size. While this batch is baking, start working on the other batches. You might transfer half-baked ones to the upper shelf, and put some new ones on lower shelf to expedite the procedure. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJvRn1gE08SFUzBcB5yU4SZJfv0CrK4-HDBjnZ4EgVy4VIMd5Crff5VHtcv2MX6FDxqyn4WPMlr2Xk78Rdetf4sQvYRRCHAaijdC5PpfUZM6DX2r9tdhfodM83mgAqweWozTJNpFN3ZFA5/s1600/lahm+ajeen+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJvRn1gE08SFUzBcB5yU4SZJfv0CrK4-HDBjnZ4EgVy4VIMd5Crff5VHtcv2MX6FDxqyn4WPMlr2Xk78Rdetf4sQvYRRCHAaijdC5PpfUZM6DX2r9tdhfodM83mgAqweWozTJNpFN3ZFA5/s1600/lahm+ajeen+01.jpg" height="355" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6. As soon as you take the baked ones out of the oven, stack
them with the parchment paper, in a big paper bag, lined with a kitchen towel or paper napkins,
and partially close the bag. Or use a large container (see photo to your right). The parchment paper will prevent the topping from
sticking to the bottom of the piece above it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Best when eaten hot right from the oven, but also good at
room temperature. Any leftovers may be refrigerated or frozen, and warmed up in
the oven. </span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-85325975353594504862014-07-01T00:19:00.001-04:002014-08-20T08:07:09.845-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000;"><i><span style="font-size: x-large;">Kubbat Timman </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">كبّة تمّن</span></span><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></i></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">aka<i>, Kubbat Halab </i></span><span style="font-size: large; font-style: italic;">كبّة حلب</span><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: x-large;">Iraqi Rice-Balls, Stuffed and </span><span style="color: #e69138; font-size: x-large;">Fried</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;">Elegant Counterpart of Sicilian Arancini</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Crisp and golden bundles of delight:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Rice is boiled in a large amount of salted water, flavored with a bit of saffron, and cooked to perfection. Then it is drained and kneaded into dough, stuffed with spicy meat-mix, shaped, and fried to golden crispness. Yummy!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzp5gv6p67spCR6W8CNYj7w062PwFiTczAYo24nj-iE_WYfz4HBANLzDK-ip_XgHfOH_GDOSK0eJsk1EkAOhR4OoeesyQcy5IEhoaUad1JUxKRK2D0DcYc15vRnGaWKpE_avuH0dZiboAx/s1600/031+kubbat+halab+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzp5gv6p67spCR6W8CNYj7w062PwFiTczAYo24nj-iE_WYfz4HBANLzDK-ip_XgHfOH_GDOSK0eJsk1EkAOhR4OoeesyQcy5IEhoaUad1JUxKRK2D0DcYc15vRnGaWKpE_avuH0dZiboAx/s1600/031+kubbat+halab+%25282%2529.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is an Iraqi specialty, a delicacy usually reserved for festive
treats and elegant presentations. Although the name <i>kubbat Halab</i> might link
it to the Syrian city of Aleppo, to my knowledge, no other Arab country
prepares it as we do. I once made it for friends from Aleppo, and they said
they have never seen anything like it before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The beginnings of today’s art of making the stuffed foods of <i>kubba</i>,
of which this Iraqi specialty is just one kind, can be traced back to the
Baghdadi medieval kitchens where cooks experimented with this sort of complex
cooking technique, with great success. We know this from some of the recipes
included in al-Baghdadi's cookbook <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">كتاب الطبيخ</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> written in Baghdad in 1226. In his
collection of recipes, the much-loved meatballs, called <i>kubeb</i> <span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;">كُبب</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span lang="AR-SA" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span> </span>(singular <i>kubba</i>
<span dir="RTL" lang="AR-SA">كبّة</span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span dir="LTR"></span>), were given several playful twists by
stuffing them with other ingredients, thus turning them into little balls of
delightful surprises.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For instance, in a dish called <i>Makhfiyya</i> (the hidden), whole
cooked egg-yolks were enclosed in spicy paste of ground meat, and shaped into
balls. In <i>Rutabiyya</i> (meaning 'cooked with dates'), paste of ground meat was
formed into date-like balls, stuffed with peeled almonds, and simmered in
broth. When served, the dish was garnished with real dates filled with almonds,
to further confuse the diners. In another dish called <i>Bunduqiyya</i> ('like
hazelnuts'), paste of seasoned ground meat was shaped into small balls, as
small as hazelnuts, filled with mashed cooked chickpeas, then simmered in
broth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Also included in al-Baghdadi’s cookbook was <i>Naranjiyya</i> (i.e.
looking like <i>naranj</i> 'orange'). Meatballs were made as large as oranges, and
then they were coated with egg-yolk and dipped into the stew-liquid several
times until they acquired the color orange; which brings us to the now
ubiquitous Sicilian arancini (singular arancino, from ‘arancia’ Italian for ‘little
orange’), which are large stuffed balls of cooked rice, breaded and deep fried
until they are golden brown, so that they look like oranges. </span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqzDmyLa_i-8P3nPIzzIJNxqh3XnFDVxfGDs6GzxqbT1rUVUI-JqTVNkL4z2oDjqXtx2h6fkqOSJj-xwA2Icf4erOlWR_nFLN_KwWf-7MfYJkLkzLKwmXg3QjM_5dXkg4BsV9iARC3RUz/s1600/4570641778_5366162462+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqzDmyLa_i-8P3nPIzzIJNxqh3XnFDVxfGDs6GzxqbT1rUVUI-JqTVNkL4z2oDjqXtx2h6fkqOSJj-xwA2Icf4erOlWR_nFLN_KwWf-7MfYJkLkzLKwmXg3QjM_5dXkg4BsV9iARC3RUz/s1600/4570641778_5366162462+(1).jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Balls and cones of <a href="http://www.talkoftomatoes.com/2010/06/sicilian-arancini/" target="_blank">arancini</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is quite likely that the medieval Arab <i>Naranjiyya</i> might
have been the inspiration behind this Sicilian specialty. Actually, I have seen
it repeatedly mentioned that it was invented in the tenth-century during the
time of the Arab rule, and that it was similar to foods based on recipes known
in the Middle East during the Middle Ages (see for instance, <a href="http://www.bestofsicily.com/mag/art214.htm" target="_blank">Arancine</a>,
by Francesca Lombardo). Indeed, this might well have been the case as cultivation
of rice, saffron and citrus fruits, among many other plants, was initiated by
the Arabs when they ruled the southern parts of Spain and Italy. However, I
have yet to find medieval recipes or more specific references to this kind of
stuffed food. </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuE8uBwEcDUIpl6hb3JSQlW9EkfVhopL30WkBh8fSbXDB-J-YPGLqNNPhud8N0hWIHMTioFdX9kF8C8E2ASXRm4Gm7ERF1CTS335i9T_95D5qBKQ8kYM2J3S_dCxTNaeC60JBth6O9cCu/s1600/arancini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuE8uBwEcDUIpl6hb3JSQlW9EkfVhopL30WkBh8fSbXDB-J-YPGLqNNPhud8N0hWIHMTioFdX9kF8C8E2ASXRm4Gm7ERF1CTS335i9T_95D5qBKQ8kYM2J3S_dCxTNaeC60JBth6O9cCu/s1600/arancini.jpg" height="320" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bostonglobe.com/lifestyle/food-dining/2014/06/17/little-oranges-sicilian-specialty-since-century/44Yz24aIcM84iE2l1ae1bM/story.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arancini</span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is my assumption, though, that arancini and even the Iraqi <i>Kubbat
Halab</i> might well have originally been the creations of the resourceful cooks who
found a practical and delicious way for using cooked-rice leftovers, but evidently
the Iraqi cooks took it notches up. In today's Italian cuisine, arancini is plain
honest easy-to prepare food, stuffed with whatever is on hand; quite popular as
comfort snack food. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0H2PhJaMMlBtbmEU9jj1SB3RY5P4MUm0FBUaTuO6XSmXln5aS9GPj1MaEFZgIGarjd668Dqd3nVmqafJuN5jZaxeIs_pZ1Hjcpx1uD8zu-P7H4okArsbU7MQsVhNS-eivAmLWCcawegb/s1600/IMG_1658+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0H2PhJaMMlBtbmEU9jj1SB3RY5P4MUm0FBUaTuO6XSmXln5aS9GPj1MaEFZgIGarjd668Dqd3nVmqafJuN5jZaxeIs_pZ1Hjcpx1uD8zu-P7H4okArsbU7MQsVhNS-eivAmLWCcawegb/s1600/IMG_1658+(2).jpg" height="269" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; text-align: justify;"></span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: justify;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Kubbat Halab</i> on the other hand is one of the most refined Iraqi stuffed dishes, which requires a certain level of expertise; shells meticulously shaped as thin as possible and exquisitely filled with meat stuffing, redolent with the aromas of allspice and <i>baharat</i> spices. </span><br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is how to make <i>kubbat Halab</i>: </span></h3>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">Making dough for </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">kubbat Halab</i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"> might prove to be rather tricky at
the beginning. I remember when I first started experimenting with it, the
finished </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">kubbas </i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">were soft, and took
some odd shapes. To make successful </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">kubbat
Halab</i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"> you need to watch for two things:</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">1. The best rice choice would be a
variety which tends to be a little on the sticky side such as jasmine rice, but basmati rice will still work. Some people choose to add beaten egg to the
dough as a binder, but this will soften the texture, and the </span><i style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">kubba </i><span style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">loses its characteristic
crunchiness.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;">2. Let rice boil gently in
a big amount of salted water, and watch it and test the grains for doneness.
Undercook the grains and they will not bind into dough, overcook them and they
will be a ruined mush.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">First
of all, prepare the<b> </b><b>filling</b>:</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 ½ pounds lean
ground meat</span></b></div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 tablespoons oil<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2
medium onions (about 9 oz), finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1½
teaspoons salt<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½
teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½
teaspoon allspice<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½
teaspoon<a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/iraqi_ingredients" target="_blank"> <i>baharat</i></a> mix</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
teaspoon chili pepper<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
cup chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
cup slivered and toasted almond<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
cup currants or chopped raisins<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heat oil in a big skillet and cook ground meat,
stirring occasionally, and breaking down any lumps with the back of a spoon.
When moisture almost evaporates, add onion and stir until transparent, 10 to 15
minutes, total. Add the rest of the ingredients in the last five minutes of
cooking, and fold gently. Set aside to cool off. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLAw_7NLLnwYjjwVMNXx9GSOhyphenhyphen2WASSQmIk90praqOiE582uqKKksh5asGjrcshQeVp8DGqbAKNGLBxtOcWLSvIlNGx_5OpDT3W_Rpm4cITn8wjV9xzgJTbraTeqqY1i6nCqHbRLk-qHB/s1600/kubba+stuffing+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLAw_7NLLnwYjjwVMNXx9GSOhyphenhyphen2WASSQmIk90praqOiE582uqKKksh5asGjrcshQeVp8DGqbAKNGLBxtOcWLSvIlNGx_5OpDT3W_Rpm4cITn8wjV9xzgJTbraTeqqY1i6nCqHbRLk-qHB/s1600/kubba+stuffing+%25282%2529.jpg" height="390" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Kubba</i> stuffing ready to use</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Now, prepare the </span><b style="text-align: justify;">rice dough</b><span style="text-align: justify;">:</span></span></div>
<div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2
cups (1 pound) rice, washed, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes, then drained <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10
cups water<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2
teaspoons salt<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
teaspoon turmeric or saffron<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½
teaspoon cinnamon or a small cinnamon stick <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼
cup cornstarch<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Oil
for frying (such as canola)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1.
Bring water to a boil in a medium pot. Add the drained rice along with salt, saffron or turmeric, and cinnamon. Give the pot a good stir, and bring it back to a boil.
Reduce heat to medium, and let the rice boil gently in the partially covered
pot, gently stirring twice or thrice. The rice grains should be cooked in about
15 minutes. Start testing after the first 10 minutes of cooking. Take a few
grains and eat them, they should be cooked but still intact, not chewy, and not
mushy. Do not let rice overcook. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="IT" style="mso-ansi-language: IT;">2. Strain rice in a metal
colander. </span>Put the
colander with the rice back into the pot and cover it with the lid, and set it
aside until it is cool enough to handle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3.
Transfer rice to a big bowl, and discard the cinnamon stick if used. Sprinkle
cornstarch on rice and knead with slightly moistened hands until mixture is
combined into dough. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4.
Have a bowl of cold water nearby. Handling with slightly moistened hands, take
a small amount of dough, size of a small lemon, and shape it as follows (like the American football or rugby ball): </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
Hold the ball of
dough in one hand and hollow it with the thumb of the other hand until you get
an elongated oval shell about ¼ in. thick and 3 in. long, it does not have to
be perfect. Fill and close the opening, and roll it gently between the palms to
make it look like an egg with two pointed ends. Moisten your fingers whenever
dough feels sticky. Put the finished ones on a big tray in one layer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5.
Fry the filled <i>kubba</i> in 1-inch deep hot oil, turning once, until golden
all around, about 7 minutes per batch. Put the fried pieces in a large colander
lined with white paper towels, and let them cool off a little before serving.
Alternatively, you may spread the paper towels on a rack and put the fried <i>kubbas
</i>in one layer to cool off. This way you prevent the <i>kubba</i> from
getting soggy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">Serve with lots of salad and bread,
or make into sandwiches with slices of salad vegetables, and pickles. Pickled
mango </span><i style="text-indent: 0.2in;">(‘amba</i><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">) with diced tomato is especially good with this dish (see my </span><a href="http://iraqicookbook.com/recipes/pickles_turshi" style="text-indent: 0.2in;" target="_blank">website</a><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"> for pickle suggestions).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-indent: 0.2in;">(Makes 22-24 pieces) </span></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXdarWlX9s-f1R6pPFla2WeJymzcGZiJ5mNryApb07mFKavsqttZ3KTx8HxIsUYlkRamoWciw8oGwiGuUr_8TAcjg_KXwM3ED_e7bNELGpeou4fyw15FmxvwkSDC-1HX4S5LiEVcxrsLO/s1600/031+c+kubbat+halab+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXdarWlX9s-f1R6pPFla2WeJymzcGZiJ5mNryApb07mFKavsqttZ3KTx8HxIsUYlkRamoWciw8oGwiGuUr_8TAcjg_KXwM3ED_e7bNELGpeou4fyw15FmxvwkSDC-1HX4S5LiEVcxrsLO/s1600/031+c+kubbat+halab+%25282%2529.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Kubbat Halab</i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">: A diamond in the rough, waiting to be discovered! </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When are we going to see such trailers serving the scrumptious Iraqi elegant version, <i>kubbat Halab? </i></span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBRLsogVfuW7JZIq4rLfaPp8ULgMr8I23HD8FhWinMTRuG4D8amv8YZWnKy1ro4dwhQzGkMTeNEJ21sjjE7qPg97q0LVdbuFhp_GqYujVZ8ZcM-lMz8Ghdy6I9aMSC0D-yd4Z85r4f7oO/s1600/Arancini-Sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBRLsogVfuW7JZIq4rLfaPp8ULgMr8I23HD8FhWinMTRuG4D8amv8YZWnKy1ro4dwhQzGkMTeNEJ21sjjE7qPg97q0LVdbuFhp_GqYujVZ8ZcM-lMz8Ghdy6I9aMSC0D-yd4Z85r4f7oO/s1600/Arancini-Sign.JPG" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">A food trailer serving the Sicilian </span><a href="http://tastytouring.com/2011/06/arancini-italian-comfort-food-trailer/" style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;" target="_blank">arancini</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-40182227959379235092014-05-06T21:22:00.014-04:002023-12-21T22:24:51.806-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">
Honoring Mother's 'Day', Sumerian Style:</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b style="color: #e69138; font-size: x-large;">And Breakfast of <i>Makhlama </i>for Mom</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: x-large;"><b>مخلمة بالبتيتة</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTm6Su7JS7IjVBbUMvcvWV1Of4gP-sl-IphbXpw7q1hS6wuRBMeKiRIRSqjGQcEo_qVUT4x1yoLH5W0c4IO13y1Bg-8SL8NhbQJFL3hzUgGF5rM7tAS4x3OaLxrcJhyphenhyphenm9IFhnyFQ6hLfM/s1600/makhlama+3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTm6Su7JS7IjVBbUMvcvWV1Of4gP-sl-IphbXpw7q1hS6wuRBMeKiRIRSqjGQcEo_qVUT4x1yoLH5W0c4IO13y1Bg-8SL8NhbQJFL3hzUgGF5rM7tAS4x3OaLxrcJhyphenhyphenm9IFhnyFQ6hLfM/s1600/makhlama+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
In the third millennium BC, a Sumerian young man, whose name was Ludingirra, sent a letter to his Mom, who lives in Nippur, an ancient Sumerian city south of today's Baghdad. This ancient Sumerian record was written in cuneiform on a clay tablet. It was composed in the form of a poem. The following text is based on Samuel Kramer's <i>History Begins at Sumer (</i>pp. 333-35). </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxNPHAzf6OciJve3HJBIJ-eZJIZ0a3Bux_vVyetnKTN5LMWLP9aOT6jXpK6rsRlNW9nQabQ2ujF4ZNyzGUS3mhGSsP7f0Nb80tjBBoEM1KE3VKEE54kFVxP8173F1W_CaZ-HmzWbnmxSd/s1600/0073+mother+breastfeeding+ancient+(2).jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxNPHAzf6OciJve3HJBIJ-eZJIZ0a3Bux_vVyetnKTN5LMWLP9aOT6jXpK6rsRlNW9nQabQ2ujF4ZNyzGUS3mhGSsP7f0Nb80tjBBoEM1KE3VKEE54kFVxP8173F1W_CaZ-HmzWbnmxSd/s1600/0073+mother+breastfeeding+ancient+(2).jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Addressing the courier, Ludingirra says:<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Royal Courier, ever on the road,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I would send you to Nippur, Deliver this message.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I have traveled a long way,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
My mother is troubled, unable to sleep.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
She, in whose chamber there is never any angry word,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Keeps asking all travelers after my welfare.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Put my letters of greeting into her hand.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
And since the courier had not met his mother before, Ludingirra gave him five signs to identify her. Although admittedly none of these signs would be the equivalent of today's Driver's License ID for instance, they do certainly portray a loving image of an ideal mother. Here are some excerpts: </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4irLoVUHIDsENn8f1NrcR9BWJuxeSHJtIvAouSZjencT6DMRPCQYjFk3n6rWmn1VJXKkg_X6ObOT6Xb82WW0qW0jwpa2a4hpK7rFtjXF6er1IPjZirtEKgx5P3mryihmoTusRXXqq0UET/s1600/ancient+scene+MFA+detail.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4irLoVUHIDsENn8f1NrcR9BWJuxeSHJtIvAouSZjencT6DMRPCQYjFk3n6rWmn1VJXKkg_X6ObOT6Xb82WW0qW0jwpa2a4hpK7rFtjXF6er1IPjZirtEKgx5P3mryihmoTusRXXqq0UET/s1600/ancient+scene+MFA+detail.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A detail (Museum of fine Arts, Boston)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Her name is Shat-Ishtar,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A figure that is radiant,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
My mother is a bright light of the horizon, a mountain deer,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The morning star shining bright,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
An angel of alabaster, set on a lapis lazuli pedestal,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
My mother is rain in its season, water for the prime seed,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A rich harvest.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A garden of plenty, full of delight,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A well-watered fir tree, adorned with fir cones,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Fruit of the New Year, the yield of the first month,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
My mother is a feast, an offering full of rejoicing,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A New Year offering awesome to behold.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A dancing place made for much joy,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A lover, a loving heart, whose joy is inexhaustible.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The letter ends with:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Ludingirra, your beloved son gives you greetings."</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #e69138;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQXUH_Gg3UAx8-3Wp9ToFZb8wdSAybMQ8sHUuGsxLflwBL6lfxQlpZgicYRhLmJQBV1Gsxxfvp6-tUluB35XcU5K8jwqY1LrmF8RsKsBf670T4ND8RxOMbhHN3a4TOZPbhJQQ9nlBkOgtU/s1600/ancient+scene+MFA+(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQXUH_Gg3UAx8-3Wp9ToFZb8wdSAybMQ8sHUuGsxLflwBL6lfxQlpZgicYRhLmJQBV1Gsxxfvp6-tUluB35XcU5K8jwqY1LrmF8RsKsBf670T4ND8RxOMbhHN3a4TOZPbhJQQ9nlBkOgtU/s1600/ancient+scene+MFA+(2).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15.36px; text-align: left;">A limestone relief I first saw at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. It depicts a deportation scene of captive women from Babylonia. Defying the threatening stick of the enemy guards at the far right of the image, the mother dared stop to give her child a sip of water. A </span><span face="Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #fafbfb; color: #4e5665; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15.36px; text-align: left;">humanizing tender spot in the midst of cruelty.</span></td></tr>
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<b style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #e69138;">Breakfast of <i>Makhlama </i>for Mom</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: x-large;"><b>مخلمة بالبتيتة</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;"><b>Iraqi Omelet</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZG2HyMe2fQcYMqB0SfoMO7-xQJSl7C6WbZ2sgk5k8bH_XXYRmOOUssnVDCTYQaQjNuiGtQPC46SFQ18mEGJ5mOPX1d3WhDfDVl8DUsm3u-kuLw5LRAbSoiuKrQmA9uDQwRqnlXl-RBH6f/s1600/makhlama+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZG2HyMe2fQcYMqB0SfoMO7-xQJSl7C6WbZ2sgk5k8bH_XXYRmOOUssnVDCTYQaQjNuiGtQPC46SFQ18mEGJ5mOPX1d3WhDfDVl8DUsm3u-kuLw5LRAbSoiuKrQmA9uDQwRqnlXl-RBH6f/s1600/makhlama+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Makhlama </i>is what is known in other Arab countries as <i>'ujja</i>/ <i>'agga</i> (and other variants) and in the Western world as omelet. It is a dish with a long history. The extant medieval Arabic cookbooks include a generous number of omelet recipes, with and without meat. When made into a disc, they called it <i>'ujja mudawwara</i> (عجة مدورة); and when scrambled it was called <i>'ujja mubahthara</i> (عجة مبحثرة) or <i>makhluta</i> (مخلوطة). When the eggs were left on top, sunny side up, the omelet was called <i>narjisiyya </i>(نرجسية), i.e. looking like narcissus flower, with its colors of yellow, white and green (of herbs used). According to a recipe, the yolk was poked with knife, and lightly mixed with the white to give it a marbled look.<br />
Here is a very interesting recipe from Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq's 10th-century cookbook كتاب الطبيخ (<i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Nawal-Nasrallah/dp/9004188118/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399422527&sr=8-1&keywords=annals+of+the+caliphs+kitchens" target="_blank">Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens</a></i>, my English translation, Chapter 73):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQqq2gWVgD8ZI1mxFMoTwK3ljNagpdEO0nB0fMcOLE4Ty0NwfaPwc_kZxp6ZqqfS-FwLLcO75p-T1qa6TlhP28ynq4RJriOHQEYLv-b2oj1Cw8JFTOdolpfU7Pgh_3AM68D47FwqOZkZW/s1600/ChineseBieslookPlat1Product1b.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQqq2gWVgD8ZI1mxFMoTwK3ljNagpdEO0nB0fMcOLE4Ty0NwfaPwc_kZxp6ZqqfS-FwLLcO75p-T1qa6TlhP28ynq4RJriOHQEYLv-b2oj1Cw8JFTOdolpfU7Pgh_3AM68D47FwqOZkZW/s1600/ChineseBieslookPlat1Product1b.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iraqi leeks (<i>Kurrath</i>), p<a href="http://www.aziatische-ingredienten.nl/chinese-bieslook/" target="_blank">hoto</a>: Kok Robin, Rotterdam</td></tr>
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Slice the meat and chop it to pieces, but do not make them too small. Use some suet with it, too. Cook the meat with the green stalks of fresh onion and table leeks (<i>kurrath</i>, somewhat similar to garlic chives), leave them whole. Spread the stalks on top of the meat. Season the meat with salt, olive oil, a bruised piece of cassia and another of galangal. Add as well coriander seeds and a small amount of cumin if wished.<br />
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Break eggs on the [spread] meat, enough to cover the whole face of the frying pan, which by the way, should be of stone. Let the eggs look like eyes.<br />
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Put the pan as it is on a reed tray and insert a sprig of rue in the midst of the yolk of each egg. Drape the pan with a big thin sheet of bread (lavash bread, <i>markouk</i>) making a hole in the middle as big as the circumference of the pan. This is to hide the blackness of the outside of the pan when it is presented at the table. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrs2bzzq04PsLmLSlQZDtm1XZnYXpn-hxEy6EIek-LEgZ6h2MyCc55srkl4fzH6zQ5Oi9J3XxUKOySXDJ0ptMwruLPDPq5g6Iuw_6YN-O9cimCH1B28oy96yR4nSbEvsHvK3S_gf_hXQPj/s1600/rue---20-l.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrs2bzzq04PsLmLSlQZDtm1XZnYXpn-hxEy6EIek-LEgZ6h2MyCc55srkl4fzH6zQ5Oi9J3XxUKOySXDJ0ptMwruLPDPq5g6Iuw_6YN-O9cimCH1B28oy96yR4nSbEvsHvK3S_gf_hXQPj/s1600/rue---20-l.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/r/rue---20-l.jpg" target="_blank">Rue plant </a></td></tr>
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(A note on rue: Despite its unpleasant taste and smell, this herb was essential in medieval dishes as garnish because they believed that it had the power to combat flatulence and that chewing it after eating onion and garlic helped remove the unpleasant breath they cause. But they had it in extreme moderation. <br />
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Today in Iraq we still cook this egg dish pretty much the same way, with and without meat. It makes a very convenient side dish or a sandwich for brunch, light supper, or a picnic lunch. The recipe I choose here is the vegetarian version with cubed potatoes and herbs. The version with spinach is equally tasty (recipe in my <i>Delights from the Garden of Eden</i>, p. 192). <br />
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The recipe for Iraqi Omelet with Potatoes and Herbs is available in my <a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/recipes/a_side_dish_and_a_soup" target="_blank">website</a>.<br />
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So here is to all mothers, past, present, and future!<br />
Enjoy!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFModWSoLH3prsY8J5bm9aJAOa5YtDm0bYJ_d_VtUqdNH7AXYip_RjSaLZ8zXyC0xUXlApokoNRIAU39ftXUrfeK6usZnDhYswrVhwIo_lgg35TWa1rbvxZZ7i_hM-YfqyyowX0S1Zvuc/s1600/makhalama+6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFModWSoLH3prsY8J5bm9aJAOa5YtDm0bYJ_d_VtUqdNH7AXYip_RjSaLZ8zXyC0xUXlApokoNRIAU39ftXUrfeK6usZnDhYswrVhwIo_lgg35TWa1rbvxZZ7i_hM-YfqyyowX0S1Zvuc/s1600/makhalama+6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-68295539191828718672014-04-18T10:02:00.000-04:002018-02-23T10:42:15.459-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">Churek</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">, Iraqi Yeast Pastry, </span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">Spring Festivals of Ancient Times and Easter Buns </span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">جُرَك</span></span></div>
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Impressively large, delicately sweet and aromatic, light and delicious. Lovely with tea or coffee. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBmWgk8IKWMAiEDwB1kzsBU3oAihe_kBOfjNCBJMQTu16435-O2Fq05tmEHBvzRx80oCdm2t1W_zlMV8Gah8IM30yASjveh0RKp3pHhB1uZ7a0FWz3hJx75-8K0gwK4Uws8xAEitj8dlN/s1600/churek+in+basket+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBmWgk8IKWMAiEDwB1kzsBU3oAihe_kBOfjNCBJMQTu16435-O2Fq05tmEHBvzRx80oCdm2t1W_zlMV8Gah8IM30yASjveh0RKp3pHhB1uZ7a0FWz3hJx75-8K0gwK4Uws8xAEitj8dlN/s1600/churek+in+basket+(3).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Iraqi <i>Churek</i> is most traditionally shaped like a wheel, about 12 inch across with a
cross-like double axis; but it is also made into smaller flattish oval-shaped buns with no holes in them, stuffed with small amounts of dates or cheese and parsley.<br />
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C<i>hurek</i>, along with the dry dunking cookies <i>ka'ak</i> كعك and <i>bakhsam </i>بخصم, are usually purchased from traditional specialized bakeries where sometimes <i>churek </i>can be seen hung on the wall on long nails for display. The oldest and most famous <i>churek </i>and <i>ka'ak </i>bakery is Ka'ak il-Seyyid كعك السيد, located on the main street of Baghdad, <i>Shari' al-Rasheed</i>. It was a family-run business, which started in 1906. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbv8QxrNcGlGABQ177Drf-iLcftQx3QNFVqQt5kgdLVYug-LrgSox-tlIK4p8Us7bNmTlbnPOEsl_3n2RCn8pI5PfUtkqiqzkbsKgtm0Oly-lz0a0Gd7ewd0q3l9J420Vkwo1dKr1IZcIV/s1600/kaek.alsayed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbv8QxrNcGlGABQ177Drf-iLcftQx3QNFVqQt5kgdLVYug-LrgSox-tlIK4p8Us7bNmTlbnPOEsl_3n2RCn8pI5PfUtkqiqzkbsKgtm0Oly-lz0a0Gd7ewd0q3l9J420Vkwo1dKr1IZcIV/s1600/kaek.alsayed.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old photo of the the famous bakery <a href="http://www.algardenia.com/2014-04-04-19-52-20/menouats/4136-17.html" target="_blank">Ka'ak il-Seyyid</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">In Iraq today <i>churek </i>is not particularly associated with any festivities, religious or otherwise. It is consumed year round, usually with afternoon tea. But <i>churek</i> is also known in other countries, where it is
traditionally associated with Easter. In Greece and Cyprus, for instance, it is known as <i>tsoureki</i>, but it<i> </i>is shaped into braids. The Armenian variant is <i>choreg</i> and the Turkish is <i>çöregi</i>. Interestingly, its counterpart in traditional
Eastern European Easter baking is the <i>kulich</i>/<i>kolach</i>. The Bulgarians,
for instance, call it <i>kolach</i>, but
they more traditionally shape it like a ring or a wheel, which is more like our
<i>chureck</i> without the cross. The name
is claimed to be of Slavic origin, closely connected with the bread’s round
shape --<i>kolo</i> means ‘circle’.</span><br />
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Now, the Jewish <i>challah</i>
(variants: <i>chalah</i>, <i>hallah</i>, <i>cholla</i>) is said to have affinities with <i>kulich</i>. For the
Sabbath, this yeast bread is usually made braided. However, for <i>Rosh Hashana</i> (Jewish New Year), it is
made round, to symbolize the yearly
cycle and the wheel of time, which, etymologically, is in perfect agreement
with one of the possible meanings of <i>challah</i>, Which is 'round'. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It seems to me, therefore, that t<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">he etymological key
to </span><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">churek</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> is its shape -- round. Going back to medieval Islam, </span><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">jarq</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> was a kind of bread shaped into rings. The name was undoubtedly the Arabized form
of the Persian </span><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">jarg</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> ‘circle,’ from which </span><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">charka</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> ‘wheel’ was derived (today in Iraq, <i>charikh </i>is 'wheel').</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>Ultimately, however, this pastry with all these etymological variants associated with it may be traced back to the ancient Mesopotamian New Year festivities of the Akkadian mythical goddess Ishtar (Sumerian Inana ‘Lady of Heaven’).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZoS6xb8Xoeo1l0DK2CPIteDZ_EoHL9VlR_msAwXYtHVoh5NOg2ASXRfbLsEyDUbF4wLWsJem7ncER74dZpfEg0ZYDHt3zo5pSHJTcpkN8F7wO93t1iRU0436yV-MNYbX5c59JGR4lQHR/s1600/4585746500_418x311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZoS6xb8Xoeo1l0DK2CPIteDZ_EoHL9VlR_msAwXYtHVoh5NOg2ASXRfbLsEyDUbF4wLWsJem7ncER74dZpfEg0ZYDHt3zo5pSHJTcpkN8F7wO93t1iRU0436yV-MNYbX5c59JGR4lQHR/s1600/4585746500_418x311.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.whale.to/c/inanna.html" target="_blank">Goddess Ishtar /Inana</a>, with her symbol, star disc, in the middle</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga0GntIs6kfXZW5zfRk8OQn_XYvA6FQ38MBzXUCflxGa6_GBRBvMuds-ZQEWAtbDUNQ2ZRvcH7S3yBM5rQJXqYMVqqiWuSumxtsNw0wyA4o9hxa9ZliC0Gtyg7_AEn4GpMnNTMKJMYzBxF/s1600/inanna31.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga0GntIs6kfXZW5zfRk8OQn_XYvA6FQ38MBzXUCflxGa6_GBRBvMuds-ZQEWAtbDUNQ2ZRvcH7S3yBM5rQJXqYMVqqiWuSumxtsNw0wyA4o9hxa9ZliC0Gtyg7_AEn4GpMnNTMKJMYzBxF/s1600/inanna31.gif" width="200" /></a></div>
She was the most important
goddess, daughter of the moon god Sin, and sister of the sun god Shamash. She
was goddess of love, war, sexuality, and fertility in humankind. Interestingly,
she was also described as goddess of the grains, which explains why women kneaded
dough to make cakes to her. Her planet was Venus, she was called the Morning
and Evening star, and her name was often strongly associated with the moon.
Besides, due to her journey to the underworld to bring back her
shepherd-husband Dumuzi (biblical Tammuz), she was also responsible for the
mysteries of death and rebirth.<br />
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Ishtar's spring festivals celebrated the return of
life, announced by the first New Moon of the season, around the end of March
and beginning of April. In celebration of the goddess Ishtar and the New Year,
special pastries were baked as offerings to her. Of these temple pastries, we are fortunate to have specific
descriptions of round pastries called <i>qullupu</i>. The name is suggestive of their shape -- round, which used to symbolize
Ishtar and her associations with the moon, as well as the circle and the wheel,
which signified the cycle of the year and renewal of life. The term was derived
from the Semitic roots <i>kll</i> and <i>kly</i> meaning ‘to complete’, and <i>kull</i>, ‘whole.’<br />
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Thus, we can clearly see
affinities -- in etymology and shape -- between the ancient Mesopotamian <i>qullupu</i> pastries and the modern East
European pastries <i>kulich</i>/<i>kolach</i>/<i>challah </i>and their
counterpart <i>tsoureki</i>/<i>choreg/çöregi</i>, and the Iraqi <i>chureck.</i></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ishtar’s fame spread far and wide. She had her Phoenician,
Syrian, and Canaanite counterparts, and consequently most of the rituals and
ceremonies involved in worshipping her were adopted and adapted, one way or
another, in most parts of the ancient Old World. In the Bible, Ishtar was
called Ashtoreth, and it is conjectured that the name of Esther, heroine of the
Book of Esther, is a Hebrew rendition of a form of Ishtar.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Likewise, the name of the Christian feast ‘Easter’ is
ultimately associated with the goddess Ishtar. Today, Easter, falling on the
first Sunday after the first full moon following March 20 celebrates the
resurrection of Christ, just as Ishtar’s festivals, falling on the first
evening of the first crescent moon following the Spring Equinox, marked the New
Year by commemorating the resurrection of the god Dumuzi, Ishtar’s husband.<br />
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It
has also been suggested that the crucifixion cross symbol in the ‘bouns’ (buns)
of the ancient Saxon Feast of Eostre -- origin of the modern British hot cross
buns -- harkens back to the ancient Mesopotamian cross, believed to symbolize
the sun or the four quarters of the moon, one of Ishtar’s symbols. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 18.399999618530273px;">I have a very good detailed recipe for making <i>churek </i>in my <i><a href="http://www.iraqicookbook.com/to_purchase_nawals_books" target="_blank">Delights from the Garden of Eden</a></i>, (pp. 107-8). </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 18.399999618530273px;">Or follow <a href="http://www.tasteofbeirut.com/iraqi-sweet-rolls-shubbak-el-habayeb/" target="_blank">this link</a> for one of my reader's adaptation of my original recipe.</span><br />
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The traditional shape of the <i>churek </i>with four holes has also inspired the romantic name <i>shibbach il-habyib</i> (lovers' window).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdq2IoV5CHTxpuoL9M5IUfQ372e6X5ndStOFqe6gJ5GBWHy-SZBYmPaClaa12vq6D5aqyNrovCtpxpYVdDsT6t5KooAAEVH8y5bwtqEiAp1AVyZ-AtvKqfZ23Fo7UQ0jNjN9Zqt2sDsY2j/s1600/churek+shubak+al-habayib+(lovers'+window)+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdq2IoV5CHTxpuoL9M5IUfQ372e6X5ndStOFqe6gJ5GBWHy-SZBYmPaClaa12vq6D5aqyNrovCtpxpYVdDsT6t5KooAAEVH8y5bwtqEiAp1AVyZ-AtvKqfZ23Fo7UQ0jNjN9Zqt2sDsY2j/s1600/churek+shubak+al-habayib+(lovers'+window)+(2).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Whether a 'steering wheel' or a 'lovers' window' they all end up being devoured as quickly as you make them. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">But since my recipe yields four large ones, I usually keep some in plastic bags in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days, and heat them up as needed, and </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">freeze a couple for later. Just let them cool down completely, stuff them carefully in large plastic bags and freeze them. Next time you need to serve them, take them out of the freezer about an hour ahead of time, and then heat them up in the oven, medium heat, for 5 minutes or so. They will taste as if you've just baked them. </span></span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-25860342161797087752014-04-07T18:01:00.000-04:002018-03-16T11:24:38.038-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Lent Dishes</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: x-large;">From the Caliphs' Kitchens to Yours</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: x-large;"><i>Muzawwarat </i>Recipes from Medieval Baghdad</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: x-large;">المزوّرات: وصفات صيامية من بغداد الرشيد</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Pureed </span><span style="color: #38761d;">Fava Beans Dip, Medieval Style</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: x-large;">باقلا خضراء مهروسة</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gorgeous medieval Baghdadi dip that will put even <i>hummus </i>to shame.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next time you are making green dishes in honor of St. Patrick's Day, try this one!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is no secret that Arab cuisine glorifies meat. No meal is rendered complete without it, even the host's hospitality is gauged by the amount of meat served. This has been the case all along, particularly in pre-modern times when vegetarian dishes were not considered real food. In fact, in medieval times a meat-less dish is called <i>muzawwara </i>(counterfeit) and sometimes <i>kadhdhaba </i>(false). Such dishes were usually offered before the main meat-dish. But they also proved quite handy when someone was sick, as they were believed to be easier to digest. As such, they were tolerated but not sought after. Medieval books preserved for us verses written in frustration by a sick poet who was ordered by his physician to stick to a vegetarian diet:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">How can <i>muzawwara</i>
my nourishment be?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eating <i>muzawwara</i> is a falsity!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vinegar
and the trifling vegetable dishes are not for me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Let the
doctor get out of my way!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Say in
doctors and medicine faith has gone astray.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Give me!
Where is <i>kebab</i>? Where are the fried dishes?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">The
succulent roasts and the spiced meat? Bring them on! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWz-Zp21RQ0a1DyLV2l8HeoOjgs-LJ2b8473E5xRdqqAjy5Y5jvh5YzjZUW4i4zzuhgI3P-lXq4Qp0BJ16ytYYnVbkAYXwx6oTB68aBsG7ELBzZosq6ko1osF-WnYbRTyS6pAczXQ_4c0U/s1600/fava+dip+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWz-Zp21RQ0a1DyLV2l8HeoOjgs-LJ2b8473E5xRdqqAjy5Y5jvh5YzjZUW4i4zzuhgI3P-lXq4Qp0BJ16ytYYnVbkAYXwx6oTB68aBsG7ELBzZosq6ko1osF-WnYbRTyS6pAczXQ_4c0U/s1600/fava+dip+1.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">But most of all, the meatless dishes were in demand among Christians fasting during Lent, and the extant medieval Arab cookbooks do include a good number of them, the most interesting of which may be located in 10th-century cookbook by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq <i>Kitab al-Tabeekh</i> (كتاب الطبيخ). It dedicates the whole of chapter 46 to such dishes. It is given the title ما يأكل النصارى من الطعام المزور في الصيام (Counterfeit Dishes which Christians Eat during Lent). All made with chard, fava beans, beans, gourd, truffles, purslane, and the like. Some recipes show how to make shrimp and small fish relishes without shrimp and fish, how to make milk with coconut, omelet without eggs, <i>harisa </i>(rice porridge) with leeks instead of meat, or making stews thickened and flavored with ground sesame and almonds instead of meat.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;">Pureed </span><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;">Fava Beans Dip, Medieval Style</span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;">باقلا خضراء مهروسة</span></div>
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Here is a recipe I adapted from Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq's tenth-century cookbook (see my English translation <i style="color: #38761d;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Nawal-Nasrallah/dp/9004188118/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396892420&sr=8-1&keywords=annals+of+the+caliphs%27+kitchens" target="_blank">Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens</a></i><span style="color: #38761d;">,</span> Chapter 45, and <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Delights-Garden-Eden-Cookbook-History/dp/1845534573/ref=la_B001JOIPKI_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1396892590&sr=1-1" target="_blank">Delights from the Garden of Eden</a></i>, p. 132):</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You can prepare this dip year round using frozen green fava beans, available at Middle Eastern stores, but also at major super markets (look for it in the Goya frozen vegetables section). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Note: If using fresh fava beans, blanching them in hot water first will make shelling them a breeze. If using frozen fava beans, dipping them in hot water first will also make the task quite fast and easy. </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2
cups (12 oz) skinned fresh or frozen fava beans (= 1 pound or 3 cups, with skins still on)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3
tablespoons olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1
medium onion, finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ teaspoon crushed coriander seeds</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ cup, finely chopped cilantro </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2 garlic cloves, grated<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½
teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">¼
teaspoon black pepper<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1
teaspoon ground cumin<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">¼
cup lemon juice<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½
cup (2 oz) ground pistachio<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For
garnish: olive oil, olives, and basil or parsley <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1.
Put the skinned fava beans in a medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then
lower heat to medium,
and let them boil gently for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain beans and
reserve some of the liquid, in case you need it. When beans are cool enough to
handle, mash them with a fork. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2.
Sauté onion in oil until it starts to brown. Add coriander and cilantro, and stir briefly. Set aside 2 tablespoons of it for
garnish, add the rest to the mashed beans along with garlic, salt, pepper,
cumin, lemon juice, and ground pistachio. If mixture looks dry, add a little of
the drained liquid in which beans were cooked or some extra lemon juice, to taste.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3.
Spread mixture in a shallow bowl, and garnish with the
browned onion, olive oil, olives, and basil or parsley. Serve with warm bread.</span><br />
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Makes 4 servings </span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-8342584478747211432014-04-07T00:57:00.001-04:002015-07-09T12:28:57.512-04:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: x-large;"><i>Halawa Dihiniyya</i>: Iraqi-Style Fudge</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: x-large;">حلاوة دهينية</span></h2>
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Delicious dessert!</div>
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So steeped in scrumptiousness and history</div>
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Also goes by the names <i>dihniyya </i>and <i>dihina</i>, all derived from the name of the clarified butter (<i>dihin hurr</i>) traditionally used in making it, which gives it its characteristic enticing aroma. Nobody makes it at home. You can find it wherever traditional sweets are sold, but, without dispute, the best is purchased from the confectioners in the bazaars adjoining the Shiite holy shrine in Najaf, south of Baghdad, which explains why it is sometimes referred to as <i>halawa Najafiyya</i>. Indeed, visitors from outside Najaf are always expected to bring back with them boxfuls of it for family and friends.</div>
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Its ingredients are simple and basic, mainly flour, sugar, date syrup or honey, and clarified butter (<i>dihin hurr</i>), cooked in two stages, first on the stove, and then finished in the oven.</div>
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From extant recipes going back to the eighth century- the time of the Abbasid rule - we know that similar desserts were made, albeit named differently. Back then they were called <i>khabees</i> (خبيص) and <i>faludhaj </i>(فالوذج). [see for instance chapters 93 and 94, in my English translation of Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq's cookbook,<i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Nawal-Nasrallah/dp/9004188118/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1396839848&sr=1-11&keywords=nawal+nasrallah" target="_blank"> Annals of the Caliphis' Kichens</a></i>]. I have even found a recipe in 15th-century cookbook <i>Kitab al-Tibakha</i> (كتاب الطباخة) by the famous historian Ibn al-Mubarrid of Damascus. Interestingly, he even called it <i>halwa duhniyya</i> (حلوى دهنية). The 19th-century Lebanese cookbook <i>Kitab Tadhkirat al-Khawateen wa Ustadh al-Tabbakheen</i> (كتاب تذكرة الخواتين وأستاذ الطبّاخين), contains a recipe for <i>khabees </i>made with date syrup/sugar, p. 120. So this dessert, even in name, has certainly been around for many centuries. One difference, though, prior to the 20th century no oven was involved in making it, just the stove, and while the neighboring countries abandoned it, the tradition of making it continued in Iraq. </div>
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Here is how to make it (Makes about 15 generous squares):<br />
(Recipe adapted from <a href="http://www.sshabab.net/vb/t46042.html" target="_blank">shabab.net</a>)<br />
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1 cup milk</div>
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1 cup fat (I use 1/2 cup butter and 1/2 cup canola oil)</div>
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2 cups sugar</div>
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2 tablespoons date syrup (may be substituted with honey)</div>
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2 cups all-purpose flour</div>
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1 teaspoon ground cardamom</div>
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1 1/2 cups unsweetened shredded coconut</div>
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1 cup walnut halves</div>
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Preheat oven to 340 degrees F.<br />
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1. Put milk, fat, sugar and date syrup (or honey) in a small heavy pot. Stir and let mix boil until bubbly over medium heat (about 10 minutes). Then take the pot away from heat and right away start adding flour gradually, using electric mixer, like you do with cakes. Mix in cardamom.<br />
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2. Grease a 12x7x2 -inch pan (or approximate size), and spread the bottom with half of the coconut. Scatter the walnut halves all over it. Then, pour the batter, and cover its surface with the rest of the coconut.<br />
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3. Put the pan on the middle shelf, drape it loosely with a piece of aluminum foil, and let bake slowly for 40 to 45 minutes.<br />
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4. Take it out of the oven, and let it cool down completely on a cooling rack. Cut it into 15 squares and serve. Store the leftovers in a plastic container and keep in refrigerator, where it will stay good to eat for several weeks (if you can resist the temptation). <br />
Enjoy! <br />
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<span style="color: #a64d79;">Addictive. </span></h4>
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<span style="color: #a64d79;">Indulge responsibly!</span></h4>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-71159505846636752262014-01-28T18:16:00.000-05:002014-01-28T20:11:51.001-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">
Cauliflower is in! Kale is So Last Year!</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">قرنابيط مقلي </span></h2>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;">Fried Breaded Cauliflower</span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;">Qirnabeet Maqli</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqMxXq5Dj7zyEolOvOjY7tc3gDuitXYQ3m7bzzIwuFup5sUHG1SJTXyYB-YlIZu6SVi3qKWVnf4H26e_8_vaeFiagQnfKfUxNqqJnHe3iRPbRt2c4NKlSVvapCzaZ4yFnVoN082NY1Iib/s1600/cauliflower+blog+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqMxXq5Dj7zyEolOvOjY7tc3gDuitXYQ3m7bzzIwuFup5sUHG1SJTXyYB-YlIZu6SVi3qKWVnf4H26e_8_vaeFiagQnfKfUxNqqJnHe3iRPbRt2c4NKlSVvapCzaZ4yFnVoN082NY1Iib/s1600/cauliflower+blog+3.jpg" height="236" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was thrilled to read the other day the <a href="http://www.bostonglobe.com/lifestyle/health-wellness/2014/01/27/goodbye-kale-hello-cauliflower/vIiyUFWQo5TWKg1k809gCN/story.html" target="_blank">Boston Globe</a> article "Goodbye kale. Hello cauliflower." Admittedly kale rarely made it to my dishes but cauliflower, always has been a favorite. So here we go:<br />
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It has always been difficult to get people excited about cauliflower. We know it was cooked in the medieval Islamic world. Medieval Arabic books on cooking and botany do mention it. It was called <i>qunnabeet </i>قنابيط<i> </i>and the florets were called <i>zahr </i>زهر 'flowers' and <i>bayd </i>بيض 'eggs', and was considered a type of cultivated cabbage كرنب بستاني). But it did not seem to have been quite popular. Their physicians had a low opinion of it. They thought it generated bad blood and that it caused rumbling stomach noises. To avoid its harms the recommendation was to boil it twice with changes of water to get rid of the smell. They also recommended cooking it with fat meat and chicken, spiced with cumin, cilantro, and pepper, along with oil and salt.<br />
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Cooked the right way, medieval Arab physicians recommended it for cold related illnesses. Its stew was said to be good for coughs. They also believed that having the vegetable before drinking alcohol slowed intoxication. It also helped relieve hangover symptoms.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaRH3-xTMAVY4TOo5OMl0_jg_XcoTrzAoEjvKqwJ1KoRimvU2J0FKjPrnrnqaMKKeZt92er9dnx-4hR6XyYh7nl_l19wGGxbohamF90SuWe13AOH_PzpYIjZMvkwAbSClEKItfP_J4u4Y/s1600/Cauliflower-472x600+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaRH3-xTMAVY4TOo5OMl0_jg_XcoTrzAoEjvKqwJ1KoRimvU2J0FKjPrnrnqaMKKeZt92er9dnx-4hR6XyYh7nl_l19wGGxbohamF90SuWe13AOH_PzpYIjZMvkwAbSClEKItfP_J4u4Y/s1600/Cauliflower-472x600+(2).jpg" height="640" width="502" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medieval illustration of cauliflower, <a href="http://www.organiclea.org.uk/2013/02/cauliflower-steaks/cauliflower/" target="_blank">Italy</a></td></tr>
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And yes, the major culprit must have been the odor it emits when boiled. If you want to have your cauliflower and eat it, never boil it when you are expecting guests for dinner or when there are people around the house who are not forgiving enough. Boil it or steam it, and immediately drain it and get rid of the liquid, after that you will be safe to use it however you like.<br />
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In Iraq it is typically a winter vegetable, and we usually fry it breaded or cook it as delicious delicate stew. I prefer to prepare it with the small meatballs we call <i>ras il-'asfoor</i> راس العصفور 'sparrow's head', as you see in this photo based on a recipe in my <i>Delights from the Garden of Eden</i>, p. 220. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLTBVJZSeRY7S1eKYSKdmyxNsK7zWIOF_6yCHi3dDG_gMf-zX8YtvdGEUBWn2E3s3PTQbPyG_WvPzabyfS-imUqkAETTBLe-6_MhAw6qBEBpuJHDmxZsaftFZU7NTVTsVezjZlgJah-yM2/s1600/cauliflower+blog+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLTBVJZSeRY7S1eKYSKdmyxNsK7zWIOF_6yCHi3dDG_gMf-zX8YtvdGEUBWn2E3s3PTQbPyG_WvPzabyfS-imUqkAETTBLe-6_MhAw6qBEBpuJHDmxZsaftFZU7NTVTsVezjZlgJah-yM2/s1600/cauliflower+blog+2.jpg" height="410" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;">Fried Breaded Cauliflower<br /><i>Qirnabeet Maqli</i></span></h3>
For a snack or a side-dish, I love to prepare it breaded and fried, but you can certainly broil it to avoid the frying. Just brush or spray the pieces with oil and let them broil, turning once to cook both sides. T<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: justify;">he egg-and-crumb coating makes it deliciously crispy from the outside, leaving the inside soft and succulent. It almost melts in the mouth.</span> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqy4vitYQapiACPXtBLnyasuTAxVOscFHjJ_gdbfN-TxGjqpDnQ8aTWGW7jPlO__Z0EVfx_U91b1V3FdBLrYUJmhbFk6wUlfvSHLgN8Kw9XeUo7di2cNElenIAQ1dDz1qljeZnkLIwa-M/s1600/cauliflower+blog+3+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqy4vitYQapiACPXtBLnyasuTAxVOscFHjJ_gdbfN-TxGjqpDnQ8aTWGW7jPlO__Z0EVfx_U91b1V3FdBLrYUJmhbFk6wUlfvSHLgN8Kw9XeUo7di2cNElenIAQ1dDz1qljeZnkLIwa-M/s1600/cauliflower+blog+3+(2).jpg" height="374" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breaded cauliflower with red-pepper jelly and sprigs of <i>rishshaad </i>(garden cress/pepper grass)<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here is how to make it (about 6 servings): </span></div>
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<b style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">1 medium head of cauliflower, broken into florets</span></b></div>
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<b style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">2 eggs, beaten</span></b></div>
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<b style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Bread crumbs seasoned with salt, chili powder, ground ginger, and black pepper (¼ teaspoon of each for 1 cup breadcrumbs)</span></b></div>
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<b style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Oil for frying</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">1. Cook cauliflower in salted water, or steam it, until just done, avoid overcooking. Drain it and let it cool off. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">2. Dip the florets in beaten eggs first, and then coat them with breadcrumbs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">3. Fry in 2 inch-deep hot oil until golden brown, turning once to allow to brown on all sides, a few minutes. Drain on a white paper towel put on a colander or a rack to prevent pieces from getting soggy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: 0.2in;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: 0.2in;">Serve hot as a snack or with meat dishes.</span></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1276407595173910338.post-58064403569995349122013-12-16T03:44:00.000-05:002014-11-26T12:20:00.938-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">HAVE YOUR 'CARD' AND EAT IT</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Edible Greetings: Giant Sesame Cookies</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">برازق بالسمسم</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">How about making greeting cards, rose-scented and thoroughly delicious?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">I always had fond memories of the giant sesame cookies I used to love
when I was in my homeland Iraq. After many attempts I finally got the right
texture of the cookie as I remember it. Then, the idea of using them as edible
‘greeting cards’ hit me, inspired by their huge size. The kids just loved them.
I would make the ‘cards’ and they do the greetings. And the recipients of these
edible cards, our friends, could not be any happier. Unfortunately, they are so
tempting, that there is very little chance for them to stay intact longer than
the time it takes to read them. Nevertheless, enjoy!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">(Makes 20 large cookies) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">½ cup
butter, and ½ cup canola oil <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">1½ cups </span></b><b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">granulated<span style="letter-spacing: -.15pt;"> sugar<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">2 large eggs<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">2
tablespoons milk<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">1 teaspoon each
of vanilla, ground cardamom, and ground fennel seeds<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">4½ cups
all-purpose flour <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">2 rounded teaspoons
baking powder<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">½ teaspoon
salt<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">½ cup
coarsely ground pistachio or walnuts<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">¾ cup
honey, heated<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">¾ cup
sesame seeds<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">For glaze (enough for 10 cookies): 1 cup sifted powdered
sugar<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">1 teaspoon rose
water<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">About 4
tablespoons milk<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Preheat
oven 400°F</span></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">1. With a
mixer, beat together butter, oil, sugar, eggs, milk, vanilla, cardamom, and
aniseed, about 2 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">2. In a
separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder, and salt, and add them to the creamed
mix all at once. With a wooden spoon, stir them in a circular movement until
well incorporated. Then knead lightly and briefly until the mixture gets
together and forms into a ball. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">3. Divide
dough into 20 golf-ball size pieces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">4. Put nuts,
honey, and sesame seeds in three small separate bowls (heating honey will make
brushing it on the cookies much easier).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">5. While
holding a dough-ball, dip it in nuts first allowing its bottom to pick up as
much nuts as possible. Then put it on a cookie sheet (no need to grease it). Flatten
it with the fingers to ¼ inch thickness, shaping it into a disc about 4½ inches
wide (tip: I use the hamburger ring-mold as a guide to make an evenly-shaped
round). If wished, crimp edges by pinching with thumb and index finger. Brush
the disc with honey, and sprinkle it generously with sesame seeds. Repeat with
the rest of pieces. Leave space between them to allow for expansion. You might
need 2 to 3 cookie sheets. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">6. Bake the
first batch in the middle of the preheated oven about 10 minutes, then take it
up to the top rack, and put the second batch on the middle rack. In about 5
minutes, check on the top rack. The cookies are done when they nicely brown.
Repeat with the other batches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">7. With a
thin pancake turner, carefully transfer the cookies to a cooling rack. Let them
cool completely. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; letter-spacing: -.15pt;">8. To glaze
the cookies, mix powdered sugar, rose water, and enough milk to form a glaze of
spreading consistency. Pour it on the cookies, and set aside until set. Using
melted chocolate, decorate the surface with greetings or messages or whatever
you fancy. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Nawal Nasrallahhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00408722188177257433noreply@blogger.com0