A blog about the Iraqi cuisine from ancient Mesopotamian times to the present, by Nawal Nasrallah, author of Delights from the Garden of Eden, 2003. A new fully revised edition is released (UK: Equinox Publishing, 2013). TLS (Nov 1, 2013) said about it: "A splendid achievement…obviously a labor of love … an impressive book. Each page shows erudition, every recipe a passion for food." Get it on iBooks ITUNES.APPLE.COM. The abridged edition (440 pp.) is out!
Monday, December 16, 2013
FRUITCAKE TOO GOOD TO RECYCLE!
كيكة الفواكه المجففة
Kekat il-Fawakih il-Mujaffafa
Delicious cake, full of goodness. Do not give it away!
When I first cam to the US I was puzzled by the jokes about fruitcakes, and how they are the most recycled Christmas items, as my past experience with fruitcakes in Iraq was quite to the contrary. At Christmas time our Christian neighbors used to send us a plateful of fruitcake slices, deliciously aromatic, studded with raisins and chopped walnut and dates. Year round, simpler types of fruitcakes baked in loaf pans were always available for purchase from bakeries, or often baked at home in bundt/ring pans.
Admittedly, some of the fruitcakes I have tasted do indeed need to be recycled: no flavor, too sweet and dense, with way too much dried fruits, most of which artificially colored. It does not have to be made like this. A fruitcake with balanced texture and taste is the most wonderful cake, packed with goodness, what with all the natural fruits and nuts it contains.
After many attempt over the years, I managed to come up with this recipe, which is not cloyingly sweet, with reasonable amount of fat, and deliriously aromatic.
6 cups (about 2 pounds) dried fruits like raisins, chopped
apricots, figs, dates, and prunes, drizzled with ¼ cup orange juice, and set aside
covered for an hour or two.
½ cup walnuts, broken into pieces and preferably toasted
1 teaspoon grated orange peel.
½ cup almond flour
4¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons ground cardamom
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¾ cup vegetable oil (such as canola)
1½ cups sugar
6 large eggs (= 1 ¼ cups)
1 tablespoon vanilla
1⅓ cups milk
Preheat oven 360°F, and prepare the baking pan: For this
cake, I usually use one long loaf pan 16-by-4-by-4½ inch. Two regular loaf pans
will also do. Grease the pan with oil and dust it with almond flour. Sprinkle
the bottom of the pan with 1 cup of broken pieces of walnuts and ½ cup shredded
unsweetened coconut; set aside
................................................
1. In a big bowl, mix the dried fruits with the orange peel, walnuts and almond flour; set aside.
2. Sift together flour, salt, baking powder, cardamom,
cinnamon, and nutmeg; set aside.
3. In a big bowl, beat oil and sugar, about 2 minutes. Add
eggs one at a time, beating after each addition, about 3 minutes. Mix in
vanilla.
4. Add the flour mixture in 4 batches alternately with milk.
Do not over mix.
5. Stir the dried fruit-mix into the cake batter, mix with a
large spoon or spatula. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and level the
surface.
6. Bake in the preheated oven for about 70 minutes or until
golden brown, and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
7. Take the pan out of the oven and put it on a rack and let
the cake cool in the pan. Then invert it and set it aside for a couple of hours
or more before slicing it.
If wrapped well, this cake can stay good in the refrigerator
for more than a week. It also freezes very well. I usually slice the cake into
serving size pieces, wrap them individually in plastic wrap and keep them in
the freezer, and use as needed.
Enjoy!
For more on the history of making fruitcakes in ancient Iraq, with Sumerian recipes, go to my website iraqicookbook.com
Delicious cake, full of goodness. Do not give it away!
6 cups (about 2 pounds) dried fruits like raisins, chopped apricots, figs, dates, and prunes, drizzled with ¼ cup orange juice, and set aside covered for an hour or two.
½ cup walnuts, broken into pieces and preferably toasted
1 teaspoon grated orange peel.
½ cup almond flour
4¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons ground cardamom
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¾ cup vegetable oil (such as canola)
1½ cups sugar
6 large eggs (= 1 ¼ cups)
1 tablespoon vanilla
1⅓ cups milk
Preheat oven 360°F, and prepare the baking pan: For this cake, I usually use one long loaf pan 16-by-4-by-4½ inch. Two regular loaf pans will also do. Grease the pan with oil and dust it with almond flour. Sprinkle the bottom of the pan with 1 cup of broken pieces of walnuts and ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut; set aside
................................................
1. In a big bowl, mix the dried fruits with the orange peel, walnuts and almond flour; set aside.
2. Sift together flour, salt, baking powder, cardamom,
cinnamon, and nutmeg; set aside.
3. In a big bowl, beat oil and sugar, about 2 minutes. Add
eggs one at a time, beating after each addition, about 3 minutes. Mix in
vanilla.
4. Add the flour mixture in 4 batches alternately with milk.
Do not over mix.
5. Stir the dried fruit-mix into the cake batter, mix with a
large spoon or spatula. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and level the
surface.
6. Bake in the preheated oven for about 70 minutes or until
golden brown, and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
7. Take the pan out of the oven and put it on a rack and let
the cake cool in the pan. Then invert it and set it aside for a couple of hours
or more before slicing it.
If wrapped well, this cake can stay good in the refrigerator
for more than a week. It also freezes very well. I usually slice the cake into
serving size pieces, wrap them individually in plastic wrap and keep them in
the freezer, and use as needed.
For more on the history of making fruitcakes in ancient Iraq, with Sumerian recipes, go to my website iraqicookbook.com
Monday, November 11, 2013
Pomegranate Sherbet
Sherbet Rumman شربت رمان
&
A Song to an Unhappy Little Girl from Basra:
Hey Ho, my Little Pomegranate! Hey Ho my Darling
'Hela Ya Rummana, Hela Yumma'
هيلا يا رمانة هيلا يمة
Pomegranate tree, 13th-century folio, 'Aja'ib al-Makhluqat by al-Qazwini. W. Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian |
A lot of praise has been heaped on pomegranate in the West of late, touting it as an almost miracle food. But in the Middle East its virtues, both nutritional and symbolic, were acknowledged from ancient times. Read here, for instance, for more.
Thrice mentioned in the Qur'an, pomegranate is believed to have been grown in the gardens of Paradise. According to the Islamic lore, when the Prophet was asked about it, he said, "There is no pomegranate which has not within it a seed of the pomegranate of Paradise."
Assyrian cylinder seal showing the Tree of Life, which appears to be a pomegranate tree. Link |
Ancient Sumerian plaque featuring a dates and pomegranates, both symbols of fecundity (Iraq Museum) |
Choose ripe sweet-and-sour pomegranate with red seeds. Extract and strain the juice and put it in a clean soapstone pot. Boil it on slow fire until it is reduced to a third of its original amount then strain it and store it in glass jars. (my translation, Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens, p. 490)
However, to enjoy it as a sweet refreshing drink, called sherbet in Iraq, pomegranate juice is usually preserved as a syrup, to be diluted with chilled water whenever needed.
This sherbet is not to be confused with the Western ice cream 'sherbet', although basically the latter did originate from this Middle Eastern drink (see for instance Jeri Quinzio's Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making, pp. 6-7). Back in medieval times, such sweet chilled drinks were served at the end of the meal as they were believed to aid digestion.
Syrup for Pomegranate Sherbet شربت رمّان
Sherbet Rumman
Gradually stir in sugar into the juice, and let it dissolve completely. Then add lemon juice and mix well. Bottle the syrup and seal it with wax, or just keep it in the refrigerator.
To serve, dilute the required amount with cold water, along with ice cubes or crushed ice.
Extracting pomegranate juice in the old days of Baghdad |
A Song to an Unhappy Little Girl from Basra:
Hey Ho, my Little Pomegranate! Hey Ho my Darling
'Hela Ya Rummana, Hela Yumma'
هيلا يا رمانة هيلا يمة
A Song to an Unhappy Little Girl from Basra:
هيلا يا رمانة هيلا يمة
I have a fried who, in celebration of her birthday asked for a song, just a song. My husband and I sang for her a traditional Iraqi song, a favorite of ours, but now I think I really should have chosen this one for her.
She once reminisced to us how when just a little girl, she used to slice canned pitted olives and wear them as rings on her tiny little fingers. Then she would proceed on nibbling at them one after the other until they were all gone. In my mind, she will for ever be that little girl.
So here's to you Michal!
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Warm Memories of Summer in a Jam Jar of Cantaloupe:
Mrabbat Batteekh
A bowlful of aromatic succulent sunshine for a gloomy wintry day.
Thursday, September 19, 2013
Twisted Sesame Rings, Simeat
Bagels of Baghdad
السميط
The authentic varieties, like Iraqi simeat, are closely related to bagels, in that they are poached in hot water before baking. In fact, the name of these pastries originally came from this practice because the root verb samata (سمط) means ‘dip briefly in hot water.’ This is a baking technique deeply steeped in history. In one of the extant medieval Arab cookbooks, a recipe for ring cookies called ka’k instructs that the dough be shaped into rings, which are first carried by a rolling pin and dipped briefly in boiling water and then arranged on a tray and baked in the brick oven called furn.
Recipe:
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup (250 ml) warm water
1 tablespoon salt
3 cups (715 ml) warm water
Sesame seeds, dry toasted, for sprinkling
¾ cup (4 oz/115 g) pitted/stoned and chopped olives
½ cup (2 oz/60 g) crumbled feta cheese or shredded mozzarella cheese
¼ cup (½ oz/15 g) each chopped fresh mint, parsley, and dill
(Recipe from my cookbook Delights from the Garden of Eden)
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
Iraqi Burgers, 'Uroog
Veggie-Meat Patties with Onion-Sumac Relish
عروق
For those of you accustomed to eating the regular all-meat hamburgers, this will be an exciting new take on this staple food. These are lusciously aromatic meat patties; lighter in texture than the all-meat ones, and are not as greasy despite the fact that they are fried. This is because the meat-veggie mix is moist and will not allow fat to penetrate, as you will see. You can tell this by the amount of fat left after frying. And if you hate frying for the mess and spatter it creates, rest assured 'uroog is 'user friendly'.
In Iraq, 'uroog is very popular, served as sandwiches for breakfast, along with hot sweet tea, and for the evening meal, which is usually lighter than lunch, the main meal of the day, when the staples rice and stew and other elaborate stuffed dishes like dolma and kubba are eaten. The perfect 'uroog meal would include along with it some scrumptious slices of fried eggplant and potatoes, with pickles, and lots of fresh herbs and salad vegetables, and of course the feathered onion with sumac (recipe below).
Eking out meat with vegetables and grains is a common Middle-Eastern cooking technique, done partly to lighten up the dishes and partly for economical necessities. With big families to feed, the expensive meat can really go a long way by creating nourishing and delicious dishes, such as 'uroog.
'Uroog is definitely not a new invention. Middle Eastern cooks have been fixing such dishes for centuries, albeit under different names such as tardeen and isfeeriyya, for which we have recipes preserved in medieval Arabic cookbooks. One of the tardeen recipes, for instance, calls for pounding lean red meat, and mixing it with pounded nuts, onion, a bit of honey, eggs, cinnamon, ginger, mastic, aniseed, black pepper, and white wheat flour. all this is to be moistened with some water, and then formed into discs and fried. Similarly, an isfeeriyya recipe requires pounding lean red meat, and mixing it with some water, bread dough , eggs, and ground black pepper, saffron, cumin, and coriander seeds. This mix was supposed to be rather thin in consistency, It was taken in ladlefuls and poured into hot oil, and fried into thin discs, and hence the name isfeeriyya (looking like a thin disc).
'Uroog is traditionally made with
fermented dough. Some cooks, including myself, more conveniently use flour and a small amount of
dried yeast or baking powder, instead. Although parsley is the traditional herb
used, feel free to add other herbs like mint, basil, dill, or chives. Nowadays, the majority of cooks prefer to shape them as oblongs, but some prefer make them round.
Here is how to make 'uroog:
1
pound lean ground meat
1½
medium onions (about 1 cup/6 ounce), chopped into small pieces
¾
cup (1½ ounce) chopped parsley (other herbs may be added such as chives, basil,
or mint)
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
½
teaspoon black pepper
1
teaspoon curry powder
1
teaspoon crushed coriander seeds
½
teaspoon baking powder or dry yeast
1
cup water, room temperature
1
cup flour (all-purpose or whole wheat)
Oil
for frying
For
garnish: onion relish (recipe below), chopped parsley, pickles, salad vegetables
1.
In a big bowl, mix meat, onion, parsley, other herbs if used, salt, pepper, egg, curry powder, and coriander.
2.
Dissolve baking powder or yeast in water. Add water to the meat mix,
and fold well. Add the flour, and knead lightly with one hand for a few minutes
until well combined. The final mix will be a little soft but it should hold its
shape when formed into patties (see photo below). Add a small amount of flour if needed. This
dough is easier to handle with wet hands.
3.
Heat ½ inch-deep oil in a medium-size frying pan. With wet hands, take a piece
of the dough, size of a golf ball. Put it on the palm of one hand, and with the
other, form it into an oblong patty, about 3 inches long and ⅓ inch thick. Carefully
(don’t fry your fingers!) put the piece in the hot oil the moment you finish
shaping it, and repeat until you fill the frying pan comfortably.
Let patties
fry until golden brown, turning only once to fry on both sides. Remember to wet
your hands while handling this dough to prevent it from sticking to your
fingers. Drain fried pieces on white paper towels put in a colander (this will
prevent them from getting soggy). Repeat the process with the rest of dough.
These patties cook very fast. Frying them will not take more than 15 minutes.
For presentation: Line a platter
with onion relish, arrange ‘uroog patties all over, and sprinkle with
chopped parsley. Or serve them already stuffed into bread, along with sliced
tomatoes, onion relish, and chopped parsley.
(Makes about 26 patties)
In Iraq, 'uroog is very popular, served as sandwiches for breakfast, along with hot sweet tea, and for the evening meal, which is usually lighter than lunch, the main meal of the day, when the staples rice and stew and other elaborate stuffed dishes like dolma and kubba are eaten. The perfect 'uroog meal would include along with it some scrumptious slices of fried eggplant and potatoes, with pickles, and lots of fresh herbs and salad vegetables, and of course the feathered onion with sumac (recipe below).
Eking out meat with vegetables and grains is a common Middle-Eastern cooking technique, done partly to lighten up the dishes and partly for economical necessities. With big families to feed, the expensive meat can really go a long way by creating nourishing and delicious dishes, such as 'uroog.
'Uroog is definitely not a new invention. Middle Eastern cooks have been fixing such dishes for centuries, albeit under different names such as tardeen and isfeeriyya, for which we have recipes preserved in medieval Arabic cookbooks. One of the tardeen recipes, for instance, calls for pounding lean red meat, and mixing it with pounded nuts, onion, a bit of honey, eggs, cinnamon, ginger, mastic, aniseed, black pepper, and white wheat flour. all this is to be moistened with some water, and then formed into discs and fried. Similarly, an isfeeriyya recipe requires pounding lean red meat, and mixing it with some water, bread dough , eggs, and ground black pepper, saffron, cumin, and coriander seeds. This mix was supposed to be rather thin in consistency, It was taken in ladlefuls and poured into hot oil, and fried into thin discs, and hence the name isfeeriyya (looking like a thin disc).
'Uroog is traditionally made with fermented dough. Some cooks, including myself, more conveniently use flour and a small amount of dried yeast or baking powder, instead. Although parsley is the traditional herb used, feel free to add other herbs like mint, basil, dill, or chives. Nowadays, the majority of cooks prefer to shape them as oblongs, but some prefer make them round.
Onion-Sumac Relish
Feathered Onion
بصل مريّش
Onion
cut into thin slices and separated, as done here, is called busal mrayyash (feathered
onion), in the Iraqi culinary lingo. This relish is so simple and yet so
delicious, and goes very well with all kinds of grilled and fried meat. The sumac, with its fruity and pleasantly tart taste, transforms onion into a delicacy, which is believed to excite the appetite and aid digestion.
Here is how to prepare it:
Cut a medium onion in half lengthwise, then thinly slice it crosswise. Put it in a small bowl, add 1 teaspoon vinegar and a very generous sprinkle of sumac, then fluff the onion and set aside, covered, for about 10 minutes and use.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
Babylonia and Beyond:
History of Iraqi Cuisine
Interview on the Heritage Radio Network.org: A Taste of the Past - Episode 136
First Aired - 05/23/2013 12:00 PM
Eat Bread Enkido, the glory of life,
Drink wine Enkido, the custom of the land.
(from Epic of Gilgamesh)
Iraqi tannour bread, of Sumerian origin
In celebration of the release of the new edition of my book Delights from the Garden of Eden, I sat with the culinary historian Linda Pelaccio in the NY Studio and chatted with her about the history of the Iraqi cuisine.
Order information available at www.iraqicookbook.com
Iraqi tannour bread, of Sumerian origin |
From the Heritage Radio website:
The Babylonian cuneiform tablet with stew recipes (1700 BC). Courtesy of Yale Babylonian Collection |
The Babylonian cuneiform tablet with recipes for bird pies (1700 BC). Courtesy of Yale Babylonian Collection |
Babylonian Flavors:
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Not Your Typical 'Native Tongue'
An Iraqi Sandwich
1. Beat the tongue on a hard surface several times until it looks limp and a little longer. This is done to break the muscles. Wash it very well, rub it with salt and flour, and wash it again. Mix marinade ingredients in a glass bowl, and let tongue stay in it, a few hours to overnight.
2. Put the tongue in a deep big pot (such as a stock pot) with marinade, and rest of ingredients except for salt. Add cold water enough to well cover it. Bring to a quick boil, skimming as needed. Lower heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until it feels tender when pierced with a fork, about 2 hours. Add salt about 10 minutes before it is done.